And what's the layer height?
I've printed with a 1mm nozzle at 30mm/s i think with 0.5mm layer height.
This makes a volume of 1*30*0.5 = 15mm3/s which is i think in the average of what you can extrude with a UM2. I've done much higher (30mm3/s).
What is the material? PLA? How is the Teflon?
I'm using regular white PLA nothing special this one
Yes at 24mm/sec and I use layer height 0.5mm.
Teflon is brand new.
There is no problem with the transport of the filament true the bowden and true the teflon and nozzle. It is the heating, it is to weak. Maybe Isolating is a good tip. There is not much room for that but I can try.
Thanks!
What's happening if you speed up?
Do you have a regular heater? Maybe go for a 35w heater? I don't really understand why you are limited like that, maybe it's material related?
Oi, PLA and 245 deg. C is pretty high I'll say.
I don't think isolation will work in this case, -maybe a little.. But as Didier says, maybe the brand of filament is the problem here.
I've never printed with my 1.0 mm nozzle, but I can do the "flow test object"t with 0.4 mm and temperature at 208 deg. C. Here, using verbatim PLA.
What's normally happen is that the temperature is descending if you speed up printing, but with this high temperature already..
So, do you see underextrution, or grinding, or..?
Thanks.
Torgeir.
No I don't see under extrusion or grinding nothing. Like I said the transport of the filament works just fine. When I speed up and go to the temperature reading you see the temperature slowly going down. Then the firmware jumps in and "says" I can't reach the temperature anymore which you have entered. The result is the printing stops and I will get an error "heater error ....". I don't see what the material has to do with this issue, regular normal PLA, come on! You can not compare with a 0.4 nozzle. 1mm is huge and the only way for me to get models within reasonable printing times.
And afterwards I do post processing. That cost some time but way lesser than waiting 14, 18, 30, 48, hours whatever. I can do 4 huge blocks in a day for a maquette where I'm working on.
Hi,
Temperature decending, OK. you need the next up heat element!
Use copper paste, will improve heat transfere between heater element and OB.
This also prevent corrosion and prevent element to stuck in the OB.
Will create a litte smoke when first heated, just vent a little will soon be ok.
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Do you have a original UM2 (not UM2+) ? If so, you have a 25W heater cartridge, and you can reach the thermal limit of that one pretty easy with such a large nozzle.
Just to be sure, check that your Olsson block is not touching the fan shroud at any point, that sucks heat away and will limit your performance.
I would suggest to get a higher power heater, for example the UM2+ one that is 35W, or the ones from some third-party resellers that make them up to 50W (be aware that you woulbe be using a 50W on your own risk, you are pretty close to the limit of the power budget for the printer, and it might reboot if you have a power supply that has its overload limit a bit low, i would suggest to not get higher than 40W)
If you have a high-power heater you might actually reach another thermal limit with such a large nozzle, the limit on how fast the heat can travel from the surface to the center of the filament because of the thermal resistance of the plastic.
Edited by GuestBe aware that a higher-wattage cartridge can also overheat the drivers on the UM board. The board on my UM2 was brown around the drivers even with the original 25w heater, after printing a lot of ABS at ~245C.
I'd strongly suggest drilling some holes in the metal electronics cover to improve cooling air circulation if you do go to a 35-40w heater cartridge.
Edited by Guest1) get a 40W heater - this should be the only thing you need to do. Maybe you'll have to lower the PID but possibly not. The symptom if you need to lower PID is the temp will fluctuate quite a bit.
2) Make sure fan shroud isn't touching the bottom of the olsson block. with things cold slide paper from the back of the head under the nozzle to make sure it's not touching
3) If 40W isn't enough consider getting the block V3 and the race nozzles from 3dsolex. Those can transfer about 2X heat to the filament and you can print at more reasonable temps.
4) Don't print at 245C! Print at like 220C. Printing at 245C is a problem - it's bad for you teflon part. If it can't handle printing at 245C it still might be fine at 220C.
Thanks you guys for all the suggestions. I have an UM2 original so that is a 25 watt heater I understand. I go for a second power supply with a solid state relay for the heater. The signal from the board to heat will be used to trigger the relay. That should do the job. I have done that on another brand printer. And yeah I know, 245c is way to hot for PLA, but lowering the temp causes even more problems with the flow of the filament so that is something I came on just to make it work.
Just going to a 40W heater does not need that, only replacing the heater is enough
The UM2 can put out 40W power - all you need to do is put in a 40W (or 35W) heater.
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Torgeir 228
Hi leon_knook,
Very interesting.. What kind of filament type are you using here?
Ehmm, 24 m/s -must be a world record
, so I'll assume 24 mm/sec. right?
Anyway, pretty amazing for a UM2, with a 1.00 mm size nozzle.
You could isolate the Olsson block, and/or use the next up heater element, more energy for melting the filament..
Last fix, will be to reduce the friction in between bowden tube and the filament, but here you'll need a few more step to do, but the feeding pressure will increase!
There is a limit for such high demand feeding. But not sure the limit.
Some more info pls. (Effect of used heat element and type of filament.)
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Link to post
Share on other sites