Hi bastienb,
As I followed this tread, -but cant help, think we will need to think over again this issue..
I've learned that you've changed nozzles at both of your two UM2+ about same time? Right..
The thing is, at that time you introduced this problem with one of your printer, the other one printed as good as before and had no problem.
As this tread went on for some time, you also reported that the second printer also started to print as your first “problem printer” had been doing for some time.
OK. I thought this; what other parts might suffer very much due to this reduced nozzle size? To me the answer is the bowden tube and the knurled wheel itself..
Sure we know that you changed the bowden tube, so..
I'll know that this knurled wheel can take a lot of «punches», but can it survive spinning through «plastic filament» for some «a long?» time without any issue? (Cause it will always spin under such condition and it's amazing that this actually worked as well as it did for sometime.)
Did you check the sharpness of the small pyramids on the knurled wheel? It should be easy to compare the sharpness with your finger over the area the filament is tracking vs. on the sides of this area. You should feel the «bite» of the tip of the pyramids..
As you now are equipped with this new “super efficient” heat block, your extrusion seems to be very good, but to me -the feeder is not! Could it be that the feeder is still spinning due to this extraordinary issue from before, could it have spinning issues in both, forward and retraction direction as it is now?
I'll ask this because your print with the new heath block really extrude lots of filament during movements in between first layer layout, when placing holes, squares etc. Of c. studied your latest pictures a lot.
About the level adjustment, you really have to adjust it “some” closer to the bed. As an example, I do not use a standard (0.12 mm) 80 g paper for height adjustment, but a paper meant for those cashier printers and this paper is about 0.07 mm. Adjust so you just feel that the paper is close and barley touching. Do this very carefully and double check.. It is very easy to turn the adjustment wheel when pushing down to confirm first point (even a few click without noticing it), meaning it can be to high or to low at the first point.
When printing first layer, -even black filament can be kind of transparent! As the glass bed can be some uneven, the nozzle tip may squeeze out a “very tiny” layer here and there due to this issue..
But when you'll success here, your prints objects first layer will be as a mirror, yes you will not feel any strings of the printing on this side with your finger nail if this is done right.
(Bed cleaning is mandatory for this setup, hot water -as hot as your fingers can take and mild soap should do the trick.)
Last thing, did you print some others print object that said your printer setting will be override?
If such things happened, your basic printer setting can be corrupted and you may need to do a “factory reset”.
OK. Good luck.
Thanks.
Torgeir.
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tinkergnome 927
Just take sure that none of the 8mm (rotating) rods can move in axial direction (best to check while the printer is switched off).
There are some black spacers between the pulleys and the ball bearings (at the inside of the panels), and the rotating rods are secured with the pulleys.
There should be no (or minimal) play in axial direction.
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