Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving


Recommended Posts

Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving
(double-) check the material settings on the printers. Temperature, fan, diameter, flow... all are exactly equal? Compare all motions settings (acceleration, retraction and motor current) as well.

Or a mechanical issue, like sliding 8mm axis, 6mm rods are "bananas", loose belts or something similar.

I'll do it the parameters check this evening.

What is "sliding 8mm axis"?

For the 6mm rods, I checked them (X/Y calibration + check if these are straight) and it seems ok... but I ordered new ones in case I was not able to see the problem.

For the loose belts, I checked and tensioned everything but it is hard for me to me to say "they are not loose". I mean, it is pretty subjective and I less and less believe in my judgement on this one...

thanks for you answer!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    • Replies 84
    • Created
    • Last Reply

    Top Posters In This Topic

    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    What is "sliding 8mm axis"?

     

    Just take sure that none of the 8mm (rotating) rods can move in axial direction (best to check while the printer is switched off).

    There are some black spacers between the pulleys and the ball bearings (at the inside of the panels), and the rotating rods are secured with the pulleys.

    There should be no (or minimal) play in axial direction.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hi bastienb,

    As I followed this tread, -but cant help, think we will need to think over again this issue..

    I've learned that you've changed nozzles at both of your two UM2+ about same time? Right..

    The thing is, at that time you introduced this problem with one of your printer, the other one printed as good as before and had no problem.

    As this tread went on for some time, you also reported that the second printer also started to print as your first “problem printer” had been doing for some time.

    OK. I thought this; what other parts might suffer very much due to this reduced nozzle size? To me the answer is the bowden tube and the knurled wheel itself..

    Sure we know that you changed the bowden tube, so..

    I'll know that this knurled wheel can take a lot of «punches», but can it survive spinning through «plastic filament» for some «a long?» time without any issue? (Cause it will always spin under such condition and it's amazing that this actually worked as well as it did for sometime.)

    Did you check the sharpness of the small pyramids on the knurled wheel? It should be easy to compare the sharpness with your finger over the area the filament is tracking vs. on the sides of this area. You should feel the «bite» of the tip of the pyramids..

    As you now are equipped with this new “super efficient” heat block, your extrusion seems to be very good, but to me -the feeder is not! Could it be that the feeder is still spinning due to this extraordinary issue from before, could it have spinning issues in both, forward and retraction direction as it is now?

    I'll ask this because your print with the new heath block really extrude lots of filament during movements in between first layer layout, when placing holes, squares etc. Of c. studied your latest pictures a lot.

    About the level adjustment, you really have to adjust it “some” closer to the bed. As an example, I do not use a standard (0.12 mm) 80 g paper for height adjustment, but a paper meant for those cashier printers and this paper is about 0.07 mm. Adjust so you just feel that the paper is close and barley touching. Do this very carefully and double check.. It is very easy to turn the adjustment wheel when pushing down to confirm first point (even a few click without noticing it), meaning it can be to high or to low at the first point.

    When printing first layer, -even black filament can be kind of transparent! As the glass bed can be some uneven, the nozzle tip may squeeze out a “very tiny” layer here and there due to this issue..

    But when you'll success here, your prints objects first layer will be as a mirror, yes you will not feel any strings of the printing on this side with your finger nail if this is done right.

    (Bed cleaning is mandatory for this setup, hot water -as hot as your fingers can take and mild soap should do the trick.)

    Last thing, did you print some others print object that said your printer setting will be override?

    If such things happened, your basic printer setting can be corrupted and you may need to do a “factory reset”.

    OK. Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted (edited) · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    @tinkergnome

    I made sure the axis are not sliding! But nothing changed... thanks anyway

    **Edit -> X & Y axis are brand new from Makershop

    @Torgeir

    First of all, thank you for your big answer and for the time you spent trying to help me.

    - I changed the nozzles on both the printer at the same time yes. For 1.75mm ones. Now I changed them to 3mm from 3DSolex. Yes the problem seems to appeared immediatly on the UM2+ext and it started also on the UM2+ (but not as worse, I can still produce things).

    - About the knurled wheel, I made pictures with my camera. As I do not know precisely how to judge if it is damaged or not, I preferd to take very close pics (for me it is in good shape, homogeneously sharp). You can see it at the end of this answer. At the beginning I was thinking "just buy a new one to be sure" but the trouble is... I cannot find this part anywhere! So I hope it is not that...

    - I definitely doubt the feeder too, that's why I was wondering if upgrading to the bondtech one would make a difference? But the problem is, if the feeder was the problem, why only at certain position on the plate?

    - I figured this out during this resolution thread, I tend to use the 0.12mm paper and I tune the plate so the paper is not moving anymore (but for this current test I used your technique and you can see the result on the pic). The first layer is not transparent though... The glass bed is brand new and I spray a thin layer of adhesive as I usually do

    - Ok this one interests me a lot. I did have the "printer setting will be override" once or twice. I upgraded the printer a few days ago, wondering if it would reset all the settings but maybe this could be tried! Averything is basically stock for the settings so I won't lost anything...

    Thanks again for your answers and here is the pic!

    17042017.png

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted (edited) · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hi bastienb,

    Great, you still have much to much filament flow..

    Even if I wish it was the knurled wheel, I have to say it's not bad at all..

    What I now think is that when you had trouble feeding the 1.75 nozzles, the feed rate is brought sky high somehow, maybe the feed needed to be increased in order to get enough flow to avoid under extrusion that time? Then the problem with to lo retraction, nozzle leak/sip etc.

    A factory reset will bring back the original default setting, then check your filament type, size, temp and nozzle size. That's all, I'll think..

    Cross my fingers..

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Oh.. forgot one thing. When adjusted this close, my method, make sure that the initial layer height is 0.15 mm (not 0.3 as Cura 2.5.0 use as default.)

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hi bastienb,

    Yesterday I could not find an examples of how my first layer look like, but here it is:

    First view is from the inner side of the printer, observe the reverse side of the extruder head.

    This is first layer with brim and the color of the filament is black! Also you can see how the transparency changes due to bed offset.

    20170217_170807.thumb.jpg.5c995b1d2da2d3c6476438ed993cab53.jpg

    This next picture is the same print seen from the front side into the printer and still first layer. The bed addition is excellent, no need for glue here.

    20170217_170833.thumb.jpg.d135c7b6e87ff33acb6f981bef847257.jpg

    Then a picture of the second layer.

    20170217_174303.thumb.jpg.3e867ac3ccdb3df838dc39f67bd6b6b9.jpg

    And finally a picture of the object being printed, (a new belt gearbox for my printer).

    20170217_215619.thumb.jpg.96d13d0a00612a0d78c804aa3911fb1c.jpg

    Well, this is the way I'm doing it and now I'd never seen any object come loose from the bed, however, for parts with small footage -glue is a must..

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hello @Torgeir!

    I have a bad and a good news. The bad news is that I did what you told me and nothing changed... The good news is that Makershop is taking my printer tomorrow to solve it at their workshop! It was a bit hard to obtain this but here it is.

    I cross my fingers too...

    Thanks again for your help

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hi bastienb,

    Sorry to hear that, but sure if you're depending of the printer that's the best way to go.

    Good luck and please report back the findings.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Yeah... on the one hand I have to solve this because I need to print and I accumulated delay, but on the other hand that would have been a hell of experience solving it by ourselves!

    Anyway, I hope they will find what the problem is and tell me about it. I am a bit stressed about what they are going to say... I hope 1) they will repeat it and 2) it is not a stupid thing I simply did not see...

    But I learnt a lot so it would have been a good thing anyway.

    See you in several weeks then! Thanks again

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · VERY challenging "Gaps Between Infill and Outline" solving

    Hello everyone!

    I have good news and bad news... The good news are the printer was fully repaired and they told me what they fixed in order to achieve that:

    - the Y belts were changed along with the associated sliding block

    - the glassplate were changed

    - a little mechanical slack on the X/Y axis

    About the bad news... Well TNT deliverer signed in my place and put the package I don't know where. Unfortunately I was not able to find it when I came back from work so I do think someone took it. Basically I won't be able to show you the printer works!

    I collected proofs that I was at work when the deliverer said I received the package and I am waiting Makershop to deal with it.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now

    ×
    ×
    • Create New...