Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Alkalbani

New 3dSolex Hardcore7 and everlast nozzles.

Recommended Posts

It's been a while since I posted anything. But hopefully, i'll have some more free time in the next few weeks to review and test some new parts I just received.

I just got the new 3dSolex Hardcore7 as a second HardCore. So that i can do multi-material printing on the UM3 with both HardCore nozzles.

This model 7 HardCore came with the new printcore holder to simplify the nozzle change process. And the other main upgrade i noticed is the quality of the new plastic body, which by the looks of it is now SLS printed (the Plastic Sintering process) which produces better overall tolances and better Higher temperature stability. I definitly noticed it now fits very well into the printercore slot.

These are definitly very nice upgrades to the existing HardCore printcores.

I've also bought the new Super-Slip Bowden tubes to upgrade the existing ones on my UM3. They definity appear to have a much better quality to them than the originals. The only difference is that they aren't transparent like the Ultimaker Bowden Tubes, but that shouldn't be a problem for me.

The Last Part i also ordered and recieved are 5 endless saphirre/ruby nozzles (different nozzle sizes), But the build quality on them is superb to the point that i really don't want to use them. (I know eventually i'll have to test and use them).

I've attached some pictures of the units, and hopefully in the next few weeks i'll test the endless nozzles with some Abrasive materials.

IMG_2256.thumb.JPG.1f2bee352f2e69f41ea9616b4c1a89a6.JPG

IMG_2258.thumb.JPG.8c709490da012a1d5a58229d15edd986.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Due to the sapphire or the ruby tips on the nozzles, this makes the nozzle tips almost as tuff as diamonds, so it doesn't wear out due to very abrassive materials like Carbon-Fibre filaments, or prototype materials (which i do test sometimes).

Something like carbon-fibre can destroy the brass nozzle tip within 30-50 continious hours of printing. While this tip should allow you to keep on printing for probably a few hundered hours with abrasive materials. And if you print with only your standard filaments the nozzle could easily last you a few years, so they called it endless.

I Just tested the 0.2mm ruby nozzle, and the printer had no problems with it's active leveling.

In the next few days I'll try a small detailed print with it.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also got the HardCore and the Everlast nozzle (Ruby, 0.6mm). Installing the core was smooth, next I had to calibrate XY offset. Then I was ready for a first test print. I loaded regular PLA and just set the line width to 0.55mm (to account for the 0.6mm nozzle). Everything worked as expected. I was amazed how fast this thing actually prints - much faster than with the original 0.4mm nozzle. I chose a layer height of 0.15mm. Apparently one can go up to the nozzle diameter (i.e. 0.6mm layer height). The print looks good. It's a bit less detailed in the XY plain due to the wider nozzle, but the result is quite good.

Next I wanted to try specialty filament, namely XT-CF20 from ColorFabb, a carbon-filled filament that prints at 240-270°C. When loading the filament I had to select a material type on the printer. I decided to pick PLA for now, but the core temperature was not high enough to melt the filament so it didn't load properly. I changed the material type to Nylon and went to Maintenance->Move to extrude filament. I still had rests of PLA in the nozzle and didn't want to burn it (3DSolex recommends to do a cold pull after every print, but that seems overkill). I pushed out the remaining PLA and some of the new filament while the core was still heating, then I was ready to go. In Cura I chose a printing temperature of 245°C, bed temperature of 65°C and a print speed of 40mm/s. Line with was 0.55mm again. I decided to go without any brim and it turned out I didn't need one. The nozzle oozed a little bit in the very beginning but that stopped after 30 seconds or so. The print went through successfully and looks quite good, however, the diagonal surface fill does not quite reach the walls. I guess I need to tune settings in Cura a bit. Any hints?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also just got my HardCore and Everlast nozzle(.4 and .8 ). So I have a few questions.

1. I assume I can install the nozzle into the printcore(using the torque wrench provided) while it's not inserted into the printer, since both the core and nozzle are clean and brand new?

2. If I need to change everlast nozzle in the future , do I do it while the core is heated or should it be done after remove the printcore(when its cold)?

3. My UM3 is already calibrated - Is it normal to calibrate XY offset with a new core?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm still fairly new to FDM printers and Ultimaker and I don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also just got my HardCore and Everlast nozzle(.4 and .8 ). So I have a few questions.

1. I assume I can install the nozzle into the printcore(using the torque wrench provided) while it's not inserted into the printer, since both the core and nozzle are clean and brand new?

2. If I need to change everlast nozzle in the future , do I do it while the core is heated or should it be done after remove the printcore(when its cold)?

3. My UM3 is already calibrated - Is it normal to calibrate XY offset with a new core?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm still fairly new to FDM printers and Ultimaker and I don't want to make an expensive mistake.

Here are the instructions I received from GR5 (the Minion on this site) for changing the nozzle on the 3DSolex core:

 

The Olsson block torque wrench (7mm socket) works great except for one critical detail. You have to hold the hardcore block in place while removing and inserting nozzles. This means you have to remove the core from the machine while you do this. To avoid having to reboot the UM3 only remove the core while it is cooler than 50C. Rebooting the UM3 isn't a big deal though if you forget and remove it while hot - it just takes - what - 2 minutes?

There is a very thin steel neck above the heater block and below the aluminum fins. It is about as thin as aluminum foil. If you use the Olsson block wrench to remove a nozzle it will snap the neck. That's why you will get a wrench to hold the heater block still.

In any case, the GR5 Store can repair it if you should break it.

https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/

 

Hope this helps . . .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3. My UM3 is already calibrated - Is it normal to calibrate XY offset with a new core?

The position of the nozzle slightly differs from core to core. While my X was perfect, my Y was off by 0.7mm. It doesn't matter as long as you don't do dual extrusion, but I don't see why NOT to do it just once for a new core.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

I just got mine with .25 and .4 nozzle.

I dun seem to make successful print out of .25 nozzle, can you share what u set to the printing profile? I desperately need a good start to adjust it.

I am also curious to know if anyone here experience problems when unloading filament. I never succeed in doing so. The filament will always got stuck so hard to the print core, require me to manually set high temperature to the print-core and do a hot pull.

anyone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, has anyone had any issues with these nozzles becoming blocked? I had some filament break half way thru a 36hr print. The print then continued until the end with core 1 heating the filament but the filament wasn't being pushed thru. The nozzle is now blocked and I have no idea how to clear these as the atomic pull doesn't work due to the design of the nozzle.

Anyone got any ideas?

BR

Rich

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, has anyone had any issues with these nozzles becoming blocked? I had some filament break half way thru a 36hr print. The print then continued until the end with core 1 heating the filament but the filament wasn't being pushed thru. The nozzle is now blocked and I have no idea how to clear these as the atomic pull doesn't work due to the design of the nozzle.

Anyone got any ideas?

BR

Rich

Mine nozzle always got clogged so its amazing u can do 36hr print already 8)

I hv similar issues like yours but since I am with a .25 nozzle so perhaps it's easier to get blocked.

Can you remove the nozzle from the print core?

What I did was to hit up printcore temperature through the UM3 menu, and turn of the machine, take it out while it is still hot, and the unscrew the nozzle from the core (becuz sometimes when it is clogged inside, the filament that got stuck inside can make it very difficult to unscrew the nozzle from the printcore, so it is best to do it while it is hot and filament is soft inside). Do this carefully, dont break the print core, we just want to separate the nozzle head from the print core.

After that, just clean it like u did with normal nozzles. I am talking about nozzle head here, dont mess with the print core!! Perhaps use a lighter to hit it up and clean it. or push another filament directly to the nozzle and try sticking some dirt out of it like a hot/cold pull(only this time without the print core but directly do that to the nozzle, hit the nozzle with a lighter, and then place filament to the nozzle, give it some pressure, press on it, wait when it got cool down a bit and pull out).

At some extreme cases I use some needle with the exact/smaller nozzle size to poke it and scratch the residue out of it from inside. I hv also read that some people use acetone to sock and clean the nozzle, i hvnt try that though.

Usually this work on my .25 and .4 nozzles, but I am not sure if this is the official correct way to do it, hope this help you for a reference.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do not know if this applies to your situation, because I am using the regular print cores, but I have run, consistently with only a few exceptions, my printer (0.4 and 0.8 )  for prints for up to a week at a time without issue. Most issues have been environment related.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the first issue I have had with nozzles, all my prints on the UM3 are over 30hrs normally. I have tried heating it up after removing the nozzle from the core, but I think that have the nozzle heated and cooled for probably around 12hrs constantly has caused the filament in the nozzle to stick in the nozzle. I will keep trying as I don't really want to have to buy another everlasting nozzle, sort of defeats the object.

BR

Rich

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 19 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 18 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!