Nothing coming out of the nozzle

[zephirl 0]

Hello,

I have been trying to print something with 3mm filament but to no success...

During the first 3 minutes, everything works as expected, but after that, nothing comes out of the nozzle, which keeps moving as if all was normal.

When I tried removing the filament manually (it got stuck), it took me about 1 minute to pull the filament at 210° out, I then performed the atomic method a couple of times, and tried to print something again.

And..... the same thing happens again :(

Is there a way I could print for more than 3 minutes ?

Here is a video showing the issue :

 

Note : It's an ultimaker 2, two years old.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

It looks like it does not have enough tension to grip the material when pressure can build up.

[JoeLee3DP 0]

What type of filament are you using?

Like kmanstudios said maybe raise the tension. I don't know how many hours you have on your coupler, but you might have to replacement that.

[gr5 2,184]

It's really hard to say what the problem is. Best guess is that it's the little white teflon part in the head. 2 years old is quite old and if you haven't changed that part then it is time.

I can think of several other problems. Best thing to do is to put in an olsson block. That way you can have the head back together and remove just the nozzle and then slide filament up through the block (while cold) to feel the friction in the head and slide it up further to feel the friction in the bowden. This helps eliminate a few issues.

Also as soon as possible get an olsson block so you can open that when you have issues and also test the force needed to push filament.

It could be your feeder gnurled sleeve is ground down to CF. It could be brittle filament that broke in the bowden and got stuck. It could be you have a nozzle clog like a piece of dust that keeps finding it's way into the nozzle tip. But I suspect the teflon part.

[IRobertI 520]

Is the fan on the back of the print head running? It should either run as soon as you turn the printer on, or after the nozzle has reached about 40C.

What did the atomics look like? Could you see the internal shape of the nozzle, all the way to the tip?

After two years, the PTFE is probably toast like others have already said, so I would replace that one regardless. But I would suggest that you buy the TFM and spacer used for the UM2+ instead as these hold up a lot better (or just go for the UM2+ upgrade kit, it's well worth the money IMHO).

[zephirl 0]

It looks like it does not have enough tension to grip the material when pressure can build up.

how can I change that?

[zephirl 0]

What type of filament are you using?

 

3mm

[zephirl 0]

Thanks for your answer GR5,

However, why should I buy an olsson block if I already have one?

 

Also as soon as possible get an olsson block [...]

 

And I don't understand what you mean here :

 

It could be your feeder gnurled sleeve is ground down to CF.

 

Thanks

[kmanstudios 1,120]

 

It looks like it does not have enough tension to grip the material when pressure can build up.

 

how can I change that?

 

I am only experienced with the UM3 feeders, but, here is a link to this about the UM2 series., Oddly, looking that up, it is very similar to the UM3. But,l I know it is not like your feeder, so I am not sure how much it helps.

And, you mentioned the 3mm in your original post...I missed that...sorry.

Edited July 7, 2017 by Guest

[zephirl 0]

Thanks Robert for your answer,

 

Is the fan on the back of the print head running?

 

Yes it is.

.

 

What did the atomics look like? Could you see the internal shape of the nozzle, all the way to the tip?

 

Sometimes yes, sometimes no, and it left a small plastic trail filament behind.

Here is a picture :

.

 

But I would suggest that you buy the TFM and spacer used for the UM2+ instead as these hold up a lot better (or just go for the UM2+ upgrade kit, it's well worth the money IMHO).

 

Where can I find those (especially the spacer) and can I find some rather cheap? Note : I live in france.

[zephirl 0]

 

 

It looks like it does not have enough tension to grip the material when pressure can build up.

 

how can I change that?

 

I am only experienced with the UM3 feeders, but, here is a link to this about the UM2 series., Oddly, looking that up, it is very similar to the UM3. But,l I know it is not like your feeder, so I am not sure how much it helps.

And, you mentioned the 3mm in your original post...I missed that...sorry.

 

Alright, I'll check that out, thanks!

[IRobertI 520]

Those atomics are no good. Are you pushing until you can see filament flowing out of the nozzle before lowering the temperature?

Are you keeping pressure on the filament while the nozzle is cooling down? (keep light pressure on until the nozzle gets down to about 150C or so).

At what temperature are you pulling it? It looks like you might need to let the nozzle cool down a bit more since the filament is snapping off too early. You want the tip to look like this: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CJ9WO1XUcAEaTlm.png:large

Also, I didn't react before, but you said "3mm" filament. Does that mean true 3mm or the more common "2.85mm"? If it's actually 3mm in diameter, that could be a problem. If the tolerances of the filament aren't that great, it could mean that it's going over 3mm and that means it will have a real hard time going through the system.

Edited July 8, 2017 by Guest

[gr5 2,184]

Oh you already have an Olsson block?  That's great.  Then you don't need another one.  That means you can do some more tests.  Back to this later...

When I tried removing the filament manually (it got stuck), it took me about 1 minute to pull the filament at 210° out, I then performed the atomic method a couple of times, and tried to print something again.

What?  That doesn't sound right.  You couldn't get the filament out even when the head was at 210C?  Something isn't right.  Either the filament is too big for the bowden or maybe the white teflon part in the head is soft and expands easy and molten filament solidifies in that region.  This is a common problem on older printers (when hot, the teflon slowly gets softer over 500 hours).

I would heat the nozzle to 150C to 180C.  Then remove the filament (just pull it out) and then while hot remove the nozzle.  Even better do a cold pull first but you seem to have trouble with those.  Then I would let it cool below 40C and then insert filament from below where the nozzle is gone.  Feel the friction.  The feeder can supply about 5kg of force but you shouldn't have to supply more than 200 to 500 grams of force to get the filament through the head and also through the bowden. If friction is high in the head it's probably the white teflon part. You could try loosening the 4 thumbscrews just a little - sometimes that relieves enough pressure that suddenly the filament slides through easily. But if it is the teflon part just buy one. While waiting for the new one you can drill it out with a 3mm or 3.1mm drill. Be gentle and careful but several people on this list have done this and gotten a few more good prints.

Note that 3mm filament is too large for the bowden.  But usually "3mm" filament is actually 2.85 or 2.9mm and should be fine.  I would measure the filament with calipers.  Before going through the feeder if it reaches 3mm then it is worthless - throw it out.  Or by a larger bowden from 3dsolex.  After going through the feeder 3.1mm is max allowable diameter.

Edited July 8, 2017 by Guest