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Your experience with 3dsolex Matchless and SS "ICE" nozzles?

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Hello,

A little background: I only print PLA. 0.2mm layers, 20mm/s speed. 0.4mm nozzles. Surface quality is the most important thing to me.

For two years I've been using brass RSB JET 0.4 nozzles exclusively.

I see 3dsolex also offer other interesting options with Matchless and SS "ICE" nozzles. Are they worth almost double the price for my usage?

I would really appreciate some real world experience, there is nothing but marketing talk on 3dsolex page.

For Matchless, I don't care about speed, but can I really print 5-15 degrees cooler? My current sweet spot is 200 degress at 0.2mm layers, 20mm/s.

As for SS "ICE", does it absolutely eliminate PLA sticking to the tip of the nozzle and being dragged around? What about the fact that it is stainless steel? Does it heat up significantly slower than brass?

Thanks for any input!

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In my opinion the Matchless nozzles are a useful improvement to printing they allow you to print cooler and faster, my current favourite is a 0.6mm which allow me to print (using HDglass from Form Futura) at 50mm/s with layer height 0.25 at a temp of 208-210 With the older brass nozzles I was printing at a temp of 218) the results are of a very impressive quality. Its far better that the original UM 0.4 nozzle printing at half the speed.

I have not used the old brass nozzles since buying the Matchless nozzles

So Yes I would recommend them, I am less enthusiastic about the Stainless nozzles as heat transfer is slower so you have to slow down the print speed. The only reason to use a Stainless nozzle is with hard materials but the Sapphire and Ruby nozzles achieve the same result without significant reduction in print speed.

I should say I have no financial relation ship with @swordriff at 3DSolex, except I am a fan of his products

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Thank you for this consideration

 

In my opinion the Matchless nozzles are a useful improvement to printing they allow you to print cooler and faster, my current favourite is a 0.6mm which allow me to print (using HDglass from Form Futura) at 50mm/s with layer height 0.25 at a temp of 208-210 With the older brass nozzles I was printing at a temp of 218) the results are of a very impressive quality. Its far better that the original UM 0.4 nozzle printing at half the speed.

 

Which Mathless nozzle you are refering to... Race or RBS Jet? Anyone have a side by side comparition about those?

 

I am less enthusiastic about the Stainless nozzles as heat transfer is slower so you have to slow down the print speed. The only reason to use a Stainless nozzle is with hard materials but the Sapphire and Ruby nozzles achieve the same result without significant reduction in print speed.

 

Is there an alternative beetwin Stainless Steel and Sapphire/Ruby nozzles? I'm looking for a nozzle for Bronzefill, and maybe for other abrasive filaments but I will not be a hard level abrasive printer, I suppose ;)

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I only use Race nozzles they just work extremely well for me, I have not used an old RSB Jet for maybe six months.

The list of abrasive materials is longer than you might think, it includes Bronzefil (any metals I think) also Woodfil and 'glow in the dark' too. I have several stainless nozzles but the Sapphire or Ruby is much better IMO

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Thank you @stu_le_brew

I also thinking if I should buy a steel coupler v2 and/or Y2K to use with Mathless Nano kit for high temps filaments as 910 alloy Nylon from Taulman. Y2K I know that is important but don't know if it's compatible with Mathless Nano kit. The TFN is on my list by the way.

And the steel couper v2 I don't know what kind of improvement it will give. In 3dsolex website it described: "Greatly improved spare part! Very handy to have lying around!" Maybe a stupid question but what it means? :)

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orthography corrections

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Thank you @stu_le_brew

I also thinking if I should buy a steel coupler v2 and/or Y2K to use with Mathless Nano kit for high temps filaments as 910 alloy Nylon from Taulman. Y2K I know that is important but don't know if it's compatible with Mathless Nano kit. The TFN is on my list by the way.

And the steel couper v2 I don't know what kind of improvement it will give. In 3dsolex website it described: "Greatly improved spare part! Very handy to have lying around!" Maybe a stupid question but what it means? :)

OK I can only give my opinions:-

  • The V2 steel coupler is in my opinion better made and stronger than the UM part
     
  • The TFN coupler is a replacement for the UM part not really sure if its better or not but I haven't changed it for about 500+hrs or printing, I think the price is better than an UM part.
     
  • Lastly the Y2K provides protection for the bottom of the PTFE coupler (particularly important at high temperatures) last time I disassembled the print head the coupler was in perfect condition, so for me it does a great job.

I have a matchless nano installed - work just fine

If you need more info I would suggest contacting 3DSolex @swordriff (his real name is Carl) he is very frienly and helpful

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I'm a 3dsolex reseller.

"race" means there is two paths for the filament to flow through before it exits the nozzle. This heats the filament more thoroughly and makes a big difference especially on the 0.8mm nozzle. You can print either faster or with lower temperature.

There is no steel race nozzle. Steel is difficult to cut. "race" is difficult to cut. Put the two technologies together and it just doesn't work well apparently. You can get race ruby (aka everlast) but not race steel.

"Matchless" usually means chrome plated but the ice nozzles aren't chrome plated. So it doesn't mean anything other than "nozzles made using a better machine such that they are produced to much higher tolerances and much better quality". For example the nozzle size (e.g. "0.4") is more likely to be milled versus laser etched on the side of the nozzle.

Steel does not conduct heat as well so you have to print a bit hotter with steel nozzles.

ICE coating is effectively teflon (I'm not sure exactly what it is but I think it's in the teflon family). It's extremely slippery and pla rarely sticks to it. It really does make a difference. The biggest noticable difference would be that you don't get black spots in your white prints where the filament burned a bit and later fell into the print.

The ICE coating does not continue inside the nozzle.

ICE nozzles should not be allowed to exceed 280C as that make the coating useless (no longer slippery).

Yes you can print at least 10C cooler with "race" (not matchless) nozzles. In fact you might have to if you want the same quality as a non-race (you might get stringing if you don't do this).

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