SOLVED Does anyone have access to the dimensions of the UM2+ ulticontroller wheel?

[nzo 16]

I've just printed a slightly more protruding jog wheel. Unfortunately it does not work completely:

1 - The push-to-select action does not engage with the board's switch.

2 - The rotating action works fine.

3 - The wheel's shaft hole is a fraction too loose and new wheel can easily be pulled out of front panel recess.

Is there a source for the dimensions of the default ulticontroller wheel?

Here's a pic of my just-printed wheel:

It's a little hard to see but there is a key inside the hole, about 3.85mm below the hole surface. The top of the knob wall is level with the inside hub top.

The guy who published the modded model is nowhere to be found.

Thanks and appreciation!

Edited October 27, 2017 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 558]

You may have a look at the hardware sources on Github. The Ultimaker 2+ printer is open source after all.

[ahoeben 2,012]

Specifically, here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1244_Knob_Front_(x1)

Edited October 27, 2017 by Guest

[geert_2 558]

What you could do: measure the axis width and length with calipers. Then make the hole slightly smaller (0.1mm or so). Then manually heat it up with a tiny hot air gun and push it on while the plastic is still weak. Or file it out, or scrape it out with a knife, until it fits. If you give the hole the same depth as the original, minus 1mm, there should be no problem activating the switch.

I also designed a different knob, one with two areas, like in very old radios: a much larger diameter for finetuning, and a much smaller diameter (extruding 1.5cm from the other) for fast rotating. Although it did work a little bit better than the standard knob, it looked way too ugly. I couldn't get over that. So I removed it again.

Now I have put a little piece of PVC tubing inside the hole of the original knob. So the standard knob is now protruding 5mm from the panel. This makes it much easier to rotate the knob, and it does not harm the visual beauty of my printers (UM2). This is a good balance.

If you take a piece of small, hollow PVC tubing (like used in laboratory equipment) and cut that to size, you can still pull it out later if it would not give the desired effect. There is no permanent damage.

Or you could design a little stub, print that, and put that in the original knob's hole. Make sure you design a hole in the stub, and make an M3 thread into it, so you can always pull the piece out again.

[nzo 16]

Thank you Dim3nsioneer, ahoeben and Geert!

I did that Geert and that new knob is way out in most directions, which is maybe why the author has gone into hiding But he did give me the idea, so all is ok.

I put the new knob into my giant Chinese miller/driller and milled the knob's inside tube down to where the flat key-way begins, wrapped a single layer of duct tape over the knob recess shaft and pushed the knob firmly in place. Much improved control. Perhaps heatshrink tubing may be a better choice for the shaft packing material. For now it's good.

Really appreciated you taking the time to detail your post Geert. It sure oiled the wheels.

Some time I'll try to remodel the new knob

[tinkergnome 927]

Some time I'll try to remodel the new knob

 

I would like suggest to start with this one: Ultimaker2 Knob (FreeCAD file is included)

[nzo 16]

UPDATE - After ruminating for a while about the 'knob hole being too large diameter' I did the following:

1. Using a sharp scalpel I carefully reamed out the knob hole's opening, creating a short 'funnel' shape about 2.5mm deep.
   
2. Slipped a short length of heatshrink over the shaft and gently heated both until the heatshrink clamped on, then let it cool.
   
3. Puffed a tiny spray of silicone into the knob hole.
   
4. Aligned the shaft and knob keyways and carefully pushed the knob in place.
   

Voila! No wobble and the push and rotate functions work without mushiness, just like a bought one

Edited October 30, 2017 by Guest

[geert_2 558]

This was my oversized design. Although technically it worked, the uglyness did outweight the benefit, as you can see. The original button raised 5mm also does the job well enough.

[nzo 16]

Geert: perhaps another method might be -

• 1-Print the protruding button as is but with a flat surface and no finger recess
  
• 2-Print a slightly larger diameter and thicker disk
  
• 3-The surface of this larger disk can be optimized in whatever way you wish; with a decent-sized finger recess, edge knurling, and little knobblies.
  
• 4-You could also make the second disk in a different colour.
  
• 5-Glue the new disc to the existing knob, or recess some flat, strong neodymium magnets to both joining surfaces - then you can choose a different color scheme for every season!
  

Edited November 3, 2017 by Guest

[nzo 16]

Empty - please delete

Edited November 3, 2017 by Guest

[nzo 16]

Empty - please delete

Edited November 3, 2017 by Guest