To me it looks like in most photos the build plate is way too far from the nozzle, and the first layer is way too thick. I print my first layer at 0.2mm, and it is way thinner. Usually the underside of my prints looks like this, almost like a mirror. The camera often does not want to focus of the bottom surface, but focusses on the reflections mirrored in it instead. In the top photo the mirrored image is out of focus, in reality it appears much shinier. In the bottom photo the camera focussed on the reflections, here the cover of a desktop fan, instead of the bottom layer. But in real life we see both together.
In your post I didn't see which bonding method you used, if any? If you would just print on bare glass, without any bonding, this might work very well in dry weather, but might completely fail in moist weather. At least, that is my experience.
Also, bonding might completely fail after cleaning the glass with soap, with dish washer, solvents, etc. Soap reduces bonding, and solvents might contain traces of oils. So I clean the glass with pure warm tap water only.
For bonding you could try gr5's method (10% white wood glue in water), neotko's method (hair spray), 3DLAC, the gluestick (maybe wipe with wet tissue afterwards), or my salt method (wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, see here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ ).
Update: Hope I don't get in trouble for a double post but I am unable to edit my original post. I'm about to go to work then I'll be in bed so thought I'd add this now. As I was trawling through these forums some more I found a post by gr5 who linked to a video below and this is what I did after watching.
1. Followed his bed leveling procedure by having the nozzle one click above the build plate. Not using paper and doing the "tap" and hearing a "clink" for the other two screws.
2. Started my print again and obviously the nozzle was far too close to the plate and producing pretty much transparent lines so I quickly turned all three knobs CCW a little bit (unsure how much but was probably like 1/4 or less) and these are the results after two "rounds" of brim. The corner turning part at the top now seems to be sticking better instead of lifting straight away.
3. Restarted the print and got these results which is a little better than before. I still have that lifting on top left that I am unsure how to fix without ruining all my other leveling.
4. Restarted again and turned all 3 knobs a little more CCW and let it print a bit. As you can see it looks like the first few initial brim "rounds" printed okay (and I use okay loosely). It's clear as day in these photos that the brim is lifting up all over the place. I assume the "gouges" in the brim was due to the nozzle being too close. In the third photo at the bottom you can clearly see some more translucent looking filament so I knew it was too close to the nozzle, especially in that area.
5. Once again, turned all 3 knobs a little more CCW and let it print a little and the brim is still lifting considerably.
6. Desperation has kicked in and I've put in a brand new roll of filament. Can anyone tell me what causes this little curling/flicking up in the left photo for future reference. I left it for a bit and then this happened. Oops.
7. Finished watching the video below and decided to take my glass plate into the sink. Gave it a wash with some detergent and dried with some paper towel. Put it back onto my printer whilst using a microfibre cloth to reduce chances of skin oils getting onto it. This is where I am at. It appears the only place the brim is lifting is where I taped it down. I'm unsure as to when this occurred as I left it alone for a bit.
For future reference, am I correct with the first layer problems and their solutions below (I probably sound like a broken record)
Rippling/small tidal waves - nozzle is slightly too close. Turn the screws CCW a smidge
Large ripples/tidal waves - nozzle is far too close. Turn the screws CCW 1/4 turn* depends on your own circumstances
Gouges/tears/rips in the layer - nozzle is too close. Turn the screws CCW
Filament appears to be extruding in the air and not touching the build plate (almost like it is bridging) - Nozzle is too far from the build plate. Turn the screws CW
Filament is flicking/curling at the edges, especially when the nozzle changes direction - ????? what's the easiest solution
Translucent first layer - nozzle is too close. Turn screws CCW
Ok so I have another question. I figured I might as well post it here. Just say we split the build plate up into imaginary quads. Let's say there is some kind of issue with the filament (for this example the filament just won't stick properly) in the top left quadrant. What is the right way of going about fixing the leveling without ruining the rest of the build plate leveling (if it appears ok?). Let's assume the build plate is clean and the re-leveling is just part of the troubleshooting. I have trouble trying to find some kind of information or graphic that might show what screws to adjust for certain parts of the build plate. I hope this makes sense. Should we:
a: Adjust the back screw
b: Adjust the left screw
c: Adjust the back and left screw
d: Adjust all screws at the same time
Thanks for any help guys. I'm off to work and then bed. Will update in the morning how I went.
This was the video I followed for some more help.
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