yellowshark 153
Personally I am not convinced that 17 layers is enough, especially if your infill is sparse. If you increase your infill to 90% as per @gr5 then you may find it is OK - only one way to find out! Thinking about it, which I never have really, I would say from experience that the thinner your layer height then the thicker you need the total of the solid top layers to be to get the job done - this is though significantly affected by infill % - with 90% the first few layers of 0.06 will probably lay down quite well.
I have never used a slicer that provides variable infill density so have always increased the upper layers
Edited by yellowshark
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gr5 2,224
There's 4 issues here. Let's take them one at a time.
1) Going down to .06mm layer is only going to improve dimensional accuracy in the Z axis. So if those cylinders and holes are the wrong height/depth this may improve that. For example if one of those holes is supposed to be 0.13mm deep it will actually be printed .1mm deep if layer height is .1 and .12mm deep if layer height is .06mm. I'm guessing the Z accuracy isn't your issue so I recommend going back to 0.1mm layer height.
2) Pillowing. Has to do with temperature and infill. Yes 17 top layers should have been enough! I guess it wasn't. Make sure the side fans are at 100% as this helps a lot with pillowing but since the 0.1mm layer height worked fine maybe you can ignore this advice. But if you really need 0.06mm layer height you could increase the infill to 90% and I'd set gradual infill on and set it to 0.3 step size (5 layers per increase of infill percent) and 5 levels of graduation.
3) dimensional accuracy. I assume you mean the holes and cylinders are too small. That's a common problem with FFF printing and PLA in particular. The best solution is to adjust the diameters in CAD. Sorry. You would have to do this for injection molding as well (well someone in china would have to do it) as injection molding you also have to do weird adjustments to the model to get it to come out to the correct final size - for example if you want a 90 degree angle in injection molding you usually have to go for 88 degrees in the mold. Something like that. After a while you become a pro at adjusting the diameters. I usually add 0.4mm to every vertical hole diameter (horizontal holes don't need adjusting).
4) Corners lifting. Personally I don't use auto leveling - if you are doing manual leveling then just turn the 3 screws CCW 1/4 turn (looking from below) to move the bed up a little which will cause the filament to squish a little better. If you are doing auto leveling you can turn the 3 screws after AL finishes but eventually you will run out of screw/spring space. Alternatively you can set "initial layer flow" to 150% so that the first layer squishs into the glass really well. In addition to squish it's good to have a very very thin layer of PVA glue on the glass. There are 3 easy ways to do this. One of the ways is to put a thin layer of glue stick only on half of the glass (put down stripes of glue stick) then spread it with a wet tissue such that you remove 90% of it and spread it extra thin. Heat the bed and wait for it to dry before printing - usually dry by the time the bed reaches 60C. Much more info on getting your part to never come loose here:
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