>So, guide me! How would one tackle something like this?
I have much experience printing prototypes of training guns used by my company's customers (large police departments in the U.S.). The orientation you selected in Cura is probably the best choice, given no modifications to the model. However, I would split the model horizontally (near the height of the muzzle) such that I could print it in two pieces with no level overhangs and full footprints on the bed to obtain the best possible bed adhesion and retention. Then I would mix up my own ABS cement by dissolving ABS in MEK (just like what's available in the plumbing section of home improvement and hardware stores in black only) and bond and clamp the two parts together.
If you are using PLA, there are several threads here and on the reprap forum, as I recall, suggesting methods for bonding this more difficult to join material.
I would post photos of my company's printed prototypes and also injection molded products, but they look too much like real guns (scary!) and would likely be deemed non-PC by many members of the "maker community!" :(
Update: Just to be clear--my suggestion is to bisect the muzzle and print the top piece right side-up and the bottom piece upside-down (orientations are from the shooters perspective when presenting the gun, which is standard in the firearms industry when referring to directions like up/down and right/left, BTW). It should not require any support using this method but the two pieces will need to be joined. If you have an aversion to bonding the pieces together, you could use hardware (drill for screws, tap threads, use nuts, etc.).
I haven't studied it... but at first glance, I'd probably try printing it angled, with the bottom of the grip, and bottom back corner of the body touching the build plate. Then use lots of brim to stick it down at those points. That way its mostly 45º overhangs.
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