Ultimaker3 Reboots

[mirza55 0]

I am using ultimaker3 printer and cura4. Every thing was going smoothly. All of a sudden the printer started rebooting when a print is started. It reboots during build plate heating. I have not changed any settings. Soft ware version is the same and updated. I have tried it with different files even used the older version of cura for slicing to check if the gcode file is ok  but still rebooting. I am using USB to transfer files. I changed the USB also to check if something is wrong with USB. One thing I have noticed is the led light on power supply module also blinks when the printer reboots.

I am stuck in the middle with my project. Please help. I am attaching the stl file.

Part22-Turbine _Shaft_New.stl

[CarloK 205]

A printer rebooting during the build plate heating up is almost certain a power supply problem. During the first phase of heating up, till about 50C, the power supply is stretched to its limits.

 

Since everything was working smoothly before and now not anymore, what did you change with respect to the power supply block?

Did you perhaps switch the power supply block with that from another printer?

Did the ambient temperature in the room change?

Perhaps the power supply block gets warm because it is now in the sun or next to an active heater?

 

When nothing was changed and none of the above questions applies, then perhaps you have a power supply block that's at the lower end of the specifications. Contact your reseller if warranty applies.

 

There is also a software workaround when you are brave enough to change a configuration file on the printer...

- Enable developer mode from the menu

- Open an SSH connection to the printer

- log in as root / ultimaker

- type: vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json

- Scroll down to line 102

- Change the maximum power supply wattage from 221 to 200 (first press the 'insert' key to be able to insert new text).

- exit the editor by typing after each other the 4 keys: 'ESC : w q'

- exit the SSH connection by typing: exit

- reboot the printer

[mirza55 0]

Thanks for your reply Carlok. 

None of the possibilities apply mentioned by you as I have changed nothing.

While I was waiting for reply, I started a print with build plate temperature set at zero. I got this idea from another thread with same problem.

It worked and printer started printing without rebooting, except there was no proper adhesion to build plate obviously. 

It seems that the power supply module is the culprit. I am contacting my supplier, hopefully they will replace it.

Regarding the configuration changes, I can not do it myself but I will ask my son. He is a software engineer.

Thanks again. 

[gr5 2,269]

You can print on cold glass if you cover it with the supplied blue tape.  UM3 should come with blue tape [correction um2 comes with tape but not um3] but you can use any printer's tape (such as frog tape).  The wider the tape, the better.  The most important thing is to:

 

wash the tape with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol)

 

This appears to remove the wax coating that prevents the tape from sticking to itself while still on it's spool.  Without the alcohol treatment parts won't stick well to the tape.

[mirza55 0]

Thanks for the tip gr5. I will try it.

[fbrc8-erin 302]

The UM3 does not come with blue tape. It comes with a glue stick: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23099-unboxing

Edited September 24, 2019 by fbrc8-erin

[mirza55 0]

CarloK I tried your suggestion, enabled dev mode and ssh'ed to change the wattage from 221 to 200, but unfortunately the problem persists. 

I also tried a factory reset but that's not working

Any other suggestions? Or do I need to go for a power supply replacement?

[gr5 2,269]

I've had a bad power brick and many people on the forum have mentioned issues with power bricks and I have a friend who had a bad power brick.  so I'd definitely strongly conisder that.

 

It could also be some kind of short - but if so then the bed probably wouldn't get warm.  So I doubt that's an issue.  If you are an electrical engineer you could cut open the power supply cable - insert a shunt resistor (around 0.1 ohms) and measure the actual current.  But even I would probably just buy another supply.  I use my "bad" supply for a um2go with a heated bed added.  This works great because the um2go heated bed is only 60 watts (versus um2 160 watts I think).

 

These supplies cost around $90 I believe (I probably got it on ebay or amazon).

[mirza55 0]

Thanks gr5. 

 

I can insert this shunt resistor but I would rather go for a new supply. Its a matter of few days, I can wait. 

 

I wonder if the new supply is of the same quality as the old one, than what?

[CarloK 205]

When my trick didn't fix the problem then I assume the power supply is damaged and you best replace it.

There are several compatible power supplies:

Mean Well GS220A24-R7B  is the older model

Mean Well GST220A24-R7B is the current model which complies to the latest regulations regarding efficiency and EMC radiation but has a slightly stricter output capacity (the load variation range is more limited).

 

Both models will do the job, except that companies are not allowed to sell the older model anymore for new products. You as a consumer can buy the cheapest one you can find.

 

As reference, here in Europe the new model is sold for €63 excl. VAT.

[gr5 2,269]

I prefer the one without the "T".  It puts out quite a bit more power and that model has never failed me.

 

[mirza55 0]

Hi Carlok / gr5,

Thanks for the tip. I was going to order the same old type but now I will go for the suggested one.

 

[CarloK 205]

The only suggestion I wanted to make is that you go for the cheapest as both types will work.

As GR5 says, the old one delivers a bit more power but we as Ultimaker are not allowed to sell it anymore with new printers. The newer type is a bit more environmental friendly and will save a few cents in electricity.