Hello I am working on this mod for my UM2. First off thank you for figuring this out I am happy I will be able to keep the stock display and SD slot. I was hoping you could post a pic of your board and the pin you are using on 1.4. Also in marlin can you confirm that all that must be done the single line for the ulticontroller? Thanks
On 3/31/2020 at 5:42 AM, Anthrix said:So if you use skr 1.4 you'll need to slice cable to extend 3 wires and make connection to different location.
that will be 3.3v - power, (SCL, SDA - this is your i2c communication for screen).
Ultimaker controller drawing. J2, J3 Connectors
if you look at the drawings connectors j2 and j3. J2 - pins 6 and 4 this is where your i2c going.
J3 - pin 8 ,3.3v which is missing on skr side is exp 2 pin 8 you need to split and supply 3.3v from any pin on board, i did use from wi-fi interface. (i do use wi-fi connector (rx,tx) for octoprint. so 3.3v is free to use for screen if you planing to use esp3d then is couple other pins with 3.3v you could use one of them.)
i2c wire is very simple EXP1 port wire 6, 4.
After that just in marlin to enable ultimaker 2 controller.
Also PCA9632 led controller is supported by marlin so led also will be working. just enable in marlin.
if need more info let me know.
Hello,
This is really cool , can you share to us your config file ? I will probably be able to do it myself , but it will save all us a lot of time to figure it out !
On 4/19/2020 at 3:28 PM, gossmanla said:Hello I am working on this mod for my UM2. First off thank you for figuring this out I am happy I will be able to keep the stock display and SD slot. I was hoping you could post a pic of your board and the pin you are using on 1.4. Also in marlin can you confirm that all that must be done the single line for the ulticontroller? Thanks
Yes to get ulticontroller working in marlin is just one line in marlin to enable it. Also one line to enable led controller and you good to go. But you need to make that custom cable.
In few days i'll be adding ups (for recover if power loss happens) to mine so i'll be able to take couple photos.
On 4/27/2020 at 1:06 AM, gilles-manzato said:
Hello,
This is really cool , can you share to us your config file ? I will probably be able to do it myself , but it will save all us a lot of time to figure it out !
Sure i can share my config 🙂. Just as advice use just required parts of my config to create yours. My ultimaker have few extras so if you don't have that will create problem for you. I use mk52 heat bed (Prusa mk3) also inductive sensor with temperature compensation (Pinda v2), SERIAL_PORT 3 is used for communication with raspberry pi over rx, tx, pins from wi-fi port. Also other bits like limit switch config might not match yours. So just double check. I build mine from 0.
- 1
9 hours ago, Anthrix said:
Sure i can share my config 🙂. Just as advice use just required parts of my config to create yours. My ultimaker have few extras so if you don't have that will create problem for you. I use mk52 heat bed (Prusa mk3) also inductive sensor with temperature compensation (Pinda v2), SERIAL_PORT 3 is used for communication with raspberry pi over rx, tx, pins from wi-fi port. Also other bits like limit switch config might not match yours. So just double check. I build mine from 0.
Thanks a lot !
Don't worry , mine has a few modifications too , I will do a diff and see what you changed from the default conf.
15 hours ago, Anthrix said:
Sure i can share my config 🙂. Just as advice use just required parts of my config to create yours. My ultimaker have few extras so if you don't have that will create problem for you. I use mk52 heat bed (Prusa mk3) also inductive sensor with temperature compensation (Pinda v2), SERIAL_PORT 3 is used for communication with raspberry pi over rx, tx, pins from wi-fi port. Also other bits like limit switch config might not match yours. So just double check. I build mine from 0.
Do you have photos or video of your printer to share with us? Prusa Mk3 bed sounds exciting 🙂
- 4 weeks later...
I know I'm a bit off topic, but I love your print head Is the design available online?
I am modding an old UMO to bring it a little bit nearer to today's standards (SKR 1.3 board, switche X and Y rods to match the UM2 style, custom heated bed and so on...)
- 3 weeks later...
thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far:
1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs:
bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes
2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration.
3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but _disabled_ through the printer's config menu. this reduces noise of the steppers.
4. it took me quite some time to figure out the basic settings in MARLIN 2.0.5.3 to make it cooperate with the skr1.4 and the UM2+. besides that, you need some extra hardware to properly connect the PT100 sensors and the hotend-fan to the board. see more details on my github:
Edited by Porkpie
typo
- 6
Wow PorkPie.
This looks really great.
Thanks for committing your work to GitHub.
Cheers,
Ray
On 5/28/2020 at 8:32 AM, Curven said:I know I'm a bit off topic, but I love your print head Is the design available online?
I am modding an old UMO to bring it a little bit nearer to today's standards (SKR 1.3 board, switche X and Y rods to match the UM2 style, custom heated bed and so on...)
This is link to files: Printhead
- 2
@Porkpie Considering this upgrade to my cloned UM2+ extended. I have an skr 1.4 on the way, hoping it shows up soon. Would you share the mounting board file for the mainboard? Thanks for everything you've shared! It'll make the conversion much smoother.
- 1
@Anthrix thanks for sharing your printhead files.
here you go.
you need the base-plate and one set of 4 mounting tabs. two of those don't have holes, they are meant to be glued in place on the base-plate. for the two tabs with holes, you need two M3 brass inserts in the base plate and two M3 x 6 screws.
(the rectangular cut-out was a q&d hack to make room for one of the Z-axis rods. the below stl has the corrected version with cut-out.)
SKR14_Mounting_base.stl SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl
Edited by Porkpie- 3
- 1
@Porkpie Thanks for the mounting base files.
I was looking through your GitHub, trying to teach myself and understand all the information you have shared. I admit some of it is going over my head, but I'd really like to tackle this upgrade. I read your post on eevblog about the diodes you added for protecting the MOSFETs. Can you recommend specs for the diodes?
Also, you obviously have serious electronics experience creating those PCBs for the PT100 and PWM fan. Are there ready-made boards available that would fit the criteria to use on the SKR board? Duet PT100 daughter board?? Just wondering. Thanks!!
nitrotech,
you may want to wait for an upgrade of the mounting base, which will also have a cover plate.
i'll be posting the upgrade here during the weekend.
as for the diodes, the SSB44-E3 is a good fit in all places (heater as well as fan PWM). however you can basically use whatever you have on the shelf that has a minimum 4A / 40V rating, and is either a schottky or a "fast switching" diode with
datasheet specs of trr < 200 ns.
i did the fan PWM add-on on a piece of perfboard, as there is no point in doing a pcb for just a MOSFET and a diode. the kicad files on my github are just there for a clean documentation.
to the best of my knowledge, there are (single channel) ready-made PT100-amplifiers available on ebay which should be an exact fit for the purpose. so you would need at least two of those for your SKR board. didn't look into the duet offerings, though.
i still have a few unpopulated pcbs of the PT100-amplifier add-on that i did (1..3-channel), that i'm willing to part with for material and shipment compensation.
Edited by Porkpie- 1
this is the final setup of the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my UM2+ chassis.
without white cover and extra fan being off, the TMC5160 drivers easily reached 60°C @ 28°C ambient temperature, causing a hard reset of the SKR approx. 90 min into the prints on three different occasions.
hence, i opted for forced cooling of the SKR, using a 12 VDC fan (60x60x10), connected to the 5VDC output of the DCDC module. also tried a 12VDC impeller from a radeon graphics card, connected to 5VDC. air flow was massive, but torque noise was way too loud.
a note of caution: the heatsinks that BTT supplies with the TMC5160 are utter BS. they actually fell off the MOSFETs when the temperature reached 60°C. the MOSFETs btw don't need any cooling at all, i've tested that. its just the TMC5160 heating up the driver modules and the MOSFETs.
so, for now, i'd call this mod done, my UM2+ is running not really silently, but much more silent than with the original stepper drivers. especially the many case resonances and the utter screaming of the Z-axis are gonsky. the USB "pigtail" will get an upgrade with a panel-mount adapter that fits into the original aperture on the back of the printer. next thing to tackle with is the noise of the part fans.
two points remain, though:
1. many comments on the TMC5160 say that there is no heatsink required. why is the TMC5160 running so hot in my configuration? can somebody confirm the temperature of the drivers? i mean, did anybody else really measure the temp of the drivers?
2. i'd would have expected the steppers to run "dead silent" on the TMC5160. in fact, there is still a well audible humming (but no whining), when the steppers are moving. what's your experience?
SKR14_axial60_lid.stl SKR14_imp_cass.stl SKR14_pcb_base_V2b.stl
Edited by Porkpie.
- 5
@Porkpie thanks! Your setup is very well thought out. This was the PT100 board I was looking at..
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32900075591.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.78303c00VmJUk5&mp=1
Still waiting for my board to show up.
that board seems to use MAXIM 31865 ADCs for RTD to digital conversion.
this is not compatible with the BTT SKR 1.4 TURBO analog temperature inputs and requires an SPI connection to the host:
- 1
@Porkpie PM sent about your PT100 board
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Anthrix 19
So if you use skr 1.4 you'll need to slice cable to extend 3 wires and make connection to different location.
that will be 3.3v - power, (SCL, SDA - this is your i2c communication for screen).
Ultimaker controller drawing. J2, J3 Connectors
if you look at the drawings connectors j2 and j3. J2 - pins 6 and 4 this is where your i2c going.
J3 - pin 8 ,3.3v which is missing on skr side is exp 2 pin 8 you need to split and supply 3.3v from any pin on board, i did use from wi-fi interface. (i do use wi-fi connector (rx,tx) for octoprint. so 3.3v is free to use for screen if you planing to use esp3d then is couple other pins with 3.3v you could use one of them.)
i2c wire is very simple EXP1 port wire 6, 4.
Skr 1.4 pins
After that just in marlin to enable ultimaker 2 controller.
Also PCA9632 led controller is supported by marlin so led also will be working. just enable in marlin.
if need more info let me know.
More information added.
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jgvonk1984 0
Thanks for sharing the information! I am going to order an SKR 1.4. Sending from China will take a while I think.
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