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Curven

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    62
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10 Good

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  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    CH
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  1. I have experienced the same kind of problem on our UM3 and for us the problem came form the filament poping out of the guiding bearing in the feeder and then grinding the feeder arm untill the feeder couldn't push the filament enough any more... What we had has since been shown on the forum here: Did you see any kind of grinding on your filament?
  2. This happens to me also with PLA and ABS prints on other printers. When your nozzle travels arroud some little amount of material can flow out and create this blobs. As far As I know it is nothing that affects the print qualité or the physical properties of your print.
  3. I only am experienced with UMO, UM2 and UM3 and thoose machines don't benefit from the latest improvement from Cura 4.4: Intent profiles. You should have premade profiles for your S5 printer and if you choose the engeeniring one it should reduce the over extrusion at corners. Some people didn't wait Cura 4.4 to make their own profile, as I have read on some threads that for the UM S5, you should equalize all your speeds around 30 - 40 mm/s (exept maybee first layer wich can be slower). You should also put all jerks setting to the same value wich if I remember well is around 25 mm/s.
  4. Hello I actually never printed with a raft. But as far as I know it is normal that there is a gap between the raft and the part, without it it would be impossible to remove the raft of the part... I think I have read somewhere that this gap can be configured in Cura, but as I never used it I can not give an advice on the optimal gap. (between support and print the gap is 1 layer) I looked in Cura and found that: By default the gap is 0.3mm. I would try reducing it to 0.2 and then adjust if necessary,
  5. Pour l'ASA je n'en ai jamais imprimé pour l'instant, au travail nous nous concentrons sur le PLA et l'ABS (pour l'instant tout du moins). A la maison je suis en train de réparer / modifier deux Ultimaker Original. N'ayant pas (encore) de lit chauffant je reste sur du PLA. Quand j'aurai un lit chauffant et un local que je peux dédier a cela je testerai de l'ASA. Pour l'instant les imprimantes sont dans notre bureau / chambre d'amis, je préfère donc rester sur des plastiques "inoffensifs" (ou au moins peu toxiques). Vu le message d'erreur affiché par ton imprimante et vu ce que dit le site indiqué il s'agit d'une erreur de ta sonde de température PT100, vérifie si elle est bien enfichée dans la carte mère et sinon il faut envisager de la changer, ça arrive de temps a autres... Achète bien la sonde pour UM2+, les UM2 avaient une sonde un peu moins précise, mais les deux sont compatibles.
  6. Je me permet de rajouter mon petit grain de sel... Au travail nous avons une UM2 (presque +) et une UM3. Pour les impressions a une seule matière je préfère la UM2, c'est vraiment une très bonne machine! Je trouve juste dommage que Ultimaker ne fasse plus aucune mise a jour ou kit d'upgrade pour cette machine, il y aurait pas mal de potentiel. Mais c'est aussi compréhensible que l'entreprise se concentre sur les plus nouveaux produits qui sont plus rentables... D'ailleurs la communauté propose pas mal d'idées d'upgrade DIY. Pour ce qui est de l'UM3. La double extrusion est vraiment top, matériel de support soluble a l'eau, breakaway, bicolore... Mais si j'ai pas besoin de deux buse, je privilégie la UM2. Par contre je pense que dans le cadre d'une utilisation partagée par plusieurs personnes (fablab, coworking ou bureau d'ingénieur, architectes etc...) qui ne sont pas forcément toute très a l'aise avec cette technologie elle est un peu plus facile et fiable. La possibilité de la connecter au réseau et de lancer des impressions a distance est intéressante, la UM2 ne fait cela pas a moins de la brancher sur un raspberry avec octoprint. D'après ce que tu dis tu pense acheter plus de 10 imprimantes c'est bien ça? Sera tu seul a les utiliser? Je pense que pour exploiter une "ferme d'imprimantes 3d" un serveur d'impression (Cura connect, octo print, astroprint... ) serait un plus. Cela permet de lancer des impressions a distance, de recevoir des notifications que l'impression est terminée etc... Désolé pour la tartine, j'ai pourtant essayé de rester concis...
  7. It would indeed be a great feature for people who dont wan't or can afford a Multi Material station. Or thoose who just occasionnaly need this feature. But nallath is right, it's more a firmware feature than a Cura feature
  8. Seem's like your image somehow has a problem... For wiring the fans I allready tried both solutions on my UMO (non +, so not the same board). And both do work. But I don't know if one is better than the other. I don't think any of the option could damage your board as a fan use only a very little current intensity. But it is may be wiser to wait for a second opinion.
  9. Curven

    Nettoyage buses

    Ca marche aussi avec les résidus de plastic carbonisés? En tous les cas c'est bon a savoir, merci du conseil
  10. Hello I'm not sure I did understatd well but if you "just" want to detect the runout of filament you could use a switch (same as the enstops) in this type of casing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845176 While there is filament the switch is in one state, and when filament runs out the switch triggers and pauses the printer. As far as I know it is "easy" to do one UMO (+) and UM2 (+). But for UM 3 I don't know... Maybe there are some spare pins on the mainboard, but it need's a little bit of firmware modification wich is, as far as I know, not possible on UM3. (But my knowledge is very small)
  11. It sure is alot of work but in my opinion : 1) Printers that are still sold should, in my opinion, benefit of all upgrades possible (both printer's and Cura's side) . Unfortunatly it is not so... That is Ultimaker's strategic choice and I accept it. 2) UM 3, UM S5, UM S3 are pretty similar no? Would'nt it be possible to "easily" adapt a profile from one of thes printer to the oders? (For UMO (+) and UM 2 (+) I understand it would be a lot more work)
  12. Hello I never did it my self but as far as I know there is a possibility yes. I always heard you have to change the extruder, the bowden and the heater block to run 1.75 mm. But I found this tutorial on internet and it seem's they use 1.75mm filament without hardware modifications... https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/using-1-dot-75mm-filament-on-ultimaker-2.pdf But I would prefer stay at 2.85 or make the modifications to run 1.75 with hardware adapted to it. There are some informations in this tread aswell: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/14829-175-filament-with-ultimaker-2/
  13. Ultimaker 3d printers (Print cores, extruder and bowden tube) are designed tu use 2.85 mm so I'm not sure it will give you good results even if you get a way to make it in Cura. You would need to change these 3 components to get it work, possibily change things in the printer settings and as far as I know there are not 1.75mm princores on the market. I think like Dim3nsioneer, it is easier and less expensive to find a 2.85mm filament spool.
  14. Hello, I would see 2 possibilities for what you want to achieve: The first is more like a workaroud: Turn your piece 45°, layers will be parallel and perpendicular to the walls (as far as I know, infill as well) Or you can get a parameter to configure print orientation of your top and bottom layers in Cura: Sorry It's in french but in the second menu "Coque" (should be something like "shell") You can find a parameter to change direction of the lines. Hope this can help a little.
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