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    Ultimaker Original
  1. The UMO buildplate is really hard to align because of it's 4 leveling points... The newer UM have only three and it is much better. But if you really can't get it alligned it is maybe the whole buildplatform who is loose. this would need to check all the screws and in the worse case some pieces of it has to be replaced. You can refer to the assembly manual (page 60 a further)
  2. As far as I know there are many possibility doing this with more or less complex systems and mor or less reliability... Try searching "joining filament" on google, you will get some ideas. Some people use candles but it is not recomended because you have a hig risk to burn the filament a little to much and it will clog your nozzle... This seem's to be a relatively good alternative for a cheap solution: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Filament-Fuser/
  3. Nice job! Cable managment is always the hardest to do... Once you made the changes you want to try them, not to spend lots of time on finding how to tidy all those cables (wich I find isn't that easy...)
  4. Hello You can create your own material profiles based on existing ones: My Cura is in french but it the settings of Cura you should have a "material" tab. There you select the generic profile of the material you want ant the you clic "create" it wil copy this generic profile and you are able to choose color and so on for this personalised profile. It's a bit of work at the beginning but once you have made the needed profiles it's ok. Hope this helps!
  5. Malheureusement non, J'aimerais beaucoup imprimer avec des matières "exotiques" car je suis convaincu que cela ouvre les portes a de nombreuses applications mais ce n'est pas dans la stratégie ni les besoins de mon travail. Nous imprimons a 90% du PLA, parfois avec support PVA et le 10% restant c'est de l'ABS. L'ABS a fortement tendance a "warper", pour réduire cet effet je met de la colle en baton sur la vitre (même pour le PLA), je chauffe le plateau a 100°C (contre 80° préconisé sur la bobine) et j'ai également installé une vitre en plexiglas sur la face avant des imprimantes pour réduire l'arrivée d'air froid sur l'impressions. Pour notre Ultimaker 2 j'ai utilisé ce design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-front-window-no-drilling-required Ces mesures m'ont permis de considérablement réduire les défauts liés au warping. D'après ce que j'ai pu lire concernant l'impression avec des matières flexibles (TPU, PLA flex, ninja flex etc) les imprimantes avec une configuration "bowden" (système des Ultimaker) sont moins performantes que les systèmes en "direct drive". Néanmoins le feeder des UM 2+ et suivant gère pas trop mal les filament flexibles. La Rolls royce étant un extrudeur de Bondtech.
  6. Hope someone from Ultimaker will help you... @SandervG any advise on a way to find an official spare part? Is this the part you need to replace? If you don't find official replacement part it would be a solution...
  7. De différences il y en a en théorie toujours. D'un lot de fabrication a l'autre, d'une couleur à l'autre, si la matière a été stokée longtemps dans un entrepot, dans de bonnes ou de mauvaises conditions... Je n'ai pas une énorme expérience dans les différentes matières mais en ce qui concerne le PLA j'ai eu l'occasion d'en tester de 3 ou 4 fabricants différents (Ultimaker, Colorfabb, Innofil etc...) sans constater de différence significative dans la pratique. J'imagine que c'est un peu la même chose pour d'autres matières Il semblerait que les filament très bon marché peuvent contenir des impuretés qui peuvent bloquer la buse d'extrusion ainsi que des différence significative dans le diamètre du filament, ce qui peut amener des situation de sur et sous extrusion. Ensuite pour ce qui est du cas spécifique du filament Ultimaker, oui il est significativement plus cher qu'un autre filament mais il est testé et optimisé pour fonctionner avec les imprimantes Ultimaker et les paramètre de CURA. Au travail nous n'utilisons plus que du filament Ultimaker car nous n'avons pas de temps a perdre avec des réglages fins ou des impressions ratées. A la maison je n'utilise que des filament d'autres marques moins chères.
  8. Ouah! That's nice work! I am only at a fraction of wath you did but ultimately it would be my goal tu get a my two old UMO more or less a the state of yours... Do you have some photos to share?
  9. Did you try different filaments? Old PLA can get hard and difficult to push trough bowden and the melt and extrude. If there is to much resistance it could end up by deviating the filament where it can... Before we upgrade to UM2+ I used this feeder, based on IRobertI . https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder The guide included helps to stretch the filament and so it goes in the feeder with a smooth angle.
  10. Yeah sorry actualy just noticed that if you have the IRobertI feeder you muste have the UM2... Sorry about that... You could try this piece here : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mod-to-lrobertl-feeder-enhancement-yoke One of them has a guide for the filament.
  11. Hello, I am not from Ultimaker but I advise you to take contact with the nearest official reseller. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21335-where-can-i-find-official-ultimaker-resellers
  12. Hello, do you use an Umlimaker 2+ We experienced this issue on our almost nex UM3 (same feeder as UM2+) at work, tried cleaning the feeder, changing filament, changing tension in the feeder but it always came back sooner our later... Finnaly we had to send our machine to the resserler to get it fixed and now every thing is OK. Sorry I can't help more...
  13. Sem's like it will do, but will probably need new firmware... What I am planing to try on on of my UMO is to modify it to run 24V, use a powerfull enoug PSU (Mean Well RSP-320-24) and run the heated bed directly from the ultimaker mainboard 1.5.7. not 100% sure if it works have still to do some search about it... But I asume the if Amedee is abable to run the kit trough the 1.5.7 kit there is a chance that my DIY solution could work (but i am not an electronics engineer) But first I have to make my first UMO work well enough. p.s: Heated bek kits for UMO are very hard or impossible to find now, it is sold out everywhere...
  14. Well If you find replacement stepperdrivers for the A4988 it would be as easy as "desoldering de A4988 and resolderind the XXXX" (and eventualy change some things in the firmware). But as you can see on the picture below the stepper drivers are very small. For me this change would need very good soldering skills and would still be risky... An ultimaker main board is quite expensive. (Unless you buy a cheap chinese clone) Personnaly I would not try it and rather think to change the whole main board (for a Duet2 Maestro for example) but in this case and do not know how much work it is with the firmware...
  15. Thanks a lot for your feedback. For the moemnt I am using E3D V6 hotend with rai's mount and cooling system. The part cooling fan's are plugged on the spare LED slot of the mainboard for the moment and are always on. But this didn't give me any adhesion problem on my ols acrylic with bluetape print bed. So I have time to learn to configure marlin, make tests and still have the official firmware as backup solution. Unfortunately I don't expect to have a huge amount of time to work on it this week... But I definitively plan to get the marlin firmware good for my printers one day!
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