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Curven last won the day on February 19 2020

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  1. I know I a getting an old post up again but I am trying tu fit this modification on my old Ultimaker original with a 32 bit board, custom heated bed and Marlin 2.0... I think some things have changed, I can't find the Prepare menu for example... Did somebody allready try this in marlin 2.0? (I am very bad at code... but I try to learn and understand) Thanks a lot!
  2. ça peut aussi être lié a la durée d’impression des couches, lorsque l'imprimante passe du remplissage au couches supérieurs elle met plus de temps a faire la couche et le plastique de l'autre partie a plus la même durée de stabilisation thermique entre deux couches. (Ce n'est qu'un hypothèse, mais j'ai déjà souvent vu ce genre d’artefact L'explication du sens de la tête me parait tout a fait plausible aussi, et il y a surement aussi un petit peu de jeu dans la mécanique d'une imprimante 3d, même si ça n'est pas forcément facile a percevoir... Je pense tout comme Nano-n
  3. Ich habbe zwei Ultimaker Original und wollte auf heizbett upgrade machen. habe es mit den grünen board probiert und nach ein bischen arbeit un information suche habe ich mich entschieden af ein SKR 1.3 board umzubauen. Meine Marlin configuration ist noch nicht ganz ok (motor richtung, endstops usw...) aber dass heizbett funktionniert! Ich brauche fur eine meanwell 24V speisung anstat die alte 19V speisung.
  4. Oh sorry I missed that line... So I'm out of my limited knowledge... to me it seems like your main board is dead but maybe there is a way to recover it... Ultimaker mainboards are quite expensive so I went for an other solution... On my old UMO I am changing the manboard to a SKR v1.3 (the 1.4 is out now). But it requires quite a bit of work to get the connectors to match, and I need to configure my own marlin 2.0.x. It is definitively no easy and fast solution.
  5. It could be related to that, some type of memories get corrupted if they aren't powered during many years... You can try to "build" your firmware on this website: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ I have seen links to this page on this forum before and did use it, it is a good firmware, very close to the original one.
  6. Well there is some hope that in some future this feature will become usable: Actually most of our 3D printers are "only" 2.5D. They make their moves on a flat surface, then move up again and make a layer and so on... Real 3D would be simultaneous move of the Z axis while X and Y is printing. But this is far more complex than 2.5D... (Colisions, calculation and so on...). I never tried this kind of printing and won't do so before this has become more easy to use.
  7. Sur l'ultimaker 3 que j'ai au travail nous avons utilisé des filaments de PLA de colorfabb pendant un certain temps et il a toujours été possible de spécifier manuellement quel matériaux était engagé. Une faiblesse connue de la détection de matériaux est si l'on change / charge deux bobines a la fois, il y a un seul détecteur et il ne peut pas différencier quelle bobine est sur quelle position. C'est pourquoi il faut impérativement charger une matière et laisser l'imprimante la détecter et enregistrer l'information et seulement après cela engager la deuxième bobine sur le support.
  8. Was your printer working before you tried to update the firmware? Long term storage can cause some memories and other electronics component to get corrupted, so it could be that this default is not related to your attempt to update the firmware.
  9. I know I'm a bit off topic, but I love your print head Is the design available online? I am modding an old UMO to bring it a little bit nearer to today's standards (SKR 1.3 board, switche X and Y rods to match the UM2 style, custom heated bed and so on...)
  10. Hi it is possible, I am slowly working on passing my old Ultimaker original to a SKR 1.3 with TMC 2130 for X and Y and TMC 2208 for Z and E axis. Plus a custom heated bed, but my knowledge and time aren't as big as it would need to make it in reasonable time... It isn't finished yet but as far as I know it should work... But you will have ton configure a custom firmware, which I find cool because the firmware of the UMO is very old and a lot of new features and optimizations have been done to Marlin since then. One thing I am not sure with the ultimaker 2 is if the LCD
  11. Hi if you really need tu print such long pieces I see two options. 1) Split your design, print it in smaller pieces and the assemble it (with glue or make a dovetail in the design or whatever). It takes time, may be less sturdy than if printed in one piece but will make it possible on your actual printer. 2) Buy a printer like the BlackBelt. (There might be other brands out there but I am not aware of them) https://blackbelt-3d.com/printers
  12. Thanks for this reply! I'll try it when I will be back at work! edit: Tried it right now and it worked, thanks!
  13. Hi everyone, We use Ultimaker's at my work and today I wanted to upgrade Cura from 4.4.1 to 4.6.1. Unfortunately after having reinstalled Cura 4.4.1 and installed 4.6.1 it won't start, I get this error message: I tried to reinstall Cura with no effect. I also moved my old Cura 4.4.1 folder (wich I suppose contains my config files) with no effect. I am not at all comfortable with these kind of erreor message and don't understand what it is trying to tell me... Can anyone help me?
  14. Hi! You can use an ultimaker 2 printhead on an UMO but you have to change the sliding blocks, because the two axes that go through the printhead are inverted. I made an upgrade were I put an E3D V6 on my UMO and used this design. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/beyond-umo-um2-slideblocks-by-gudo-neotko-gt2-open-belt As far as I know some people did put an UM2+ upgrade on an UMO. And I you have an UMO without heated bed it is an idea to buy one, but I am not sure that the UM2 heated bed is compatible with UMO. I am making a custom Heated Bed. with parts I buy
  15. Salut, De mon expérience ces "fils violets" sont les déplacements a "vide" de ta buse. En théorie ta tête d'impression se déplace suivant ce lignes sans extruder de plastique. En pratique le plastique fondu est liquide et est attiré par la gravité (et peut-être par d'autres phénomènes aussi) donc il y a un petit peu de plastique qui suinte lors de ces déplacements. Tu peux essayer de réduire ce problème en augmentant un petit peu ta distance de rétraction dans les paramètres de Cura. Tu peux aussi essayer d'augmenter la vitesse de rétraction. Par contre je ne peux pas te donner
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