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illuminarti

UM2 - First Problems, Successes

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After a frustrating first week of issues that had to be fixed (incorrect and physically broken fan wiring, mostly), I finally got my new UM2 up and running properly this past weekend, and I've been pretty impressed with the results in my limited testing so far. My first test piece was http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451, and it came out pretty much flawlessly - needing just a touch of clean up to free the very first layer:

Emmett Gear Bearing

I printed a few more things, all turning out pretty well, but then I also ran into the axis-shifting problem that Ian highlighted. My front axis rod gradually slipped leftwards, to the point that it actually fell out of its bearing on the right side.

Interestingly the print carried on, almost flawlessly - the only effect was that it looked like the printer skipped a few steps on the y-axis when it happened, so the print shifted backwards about 0.25mm from that layer on. Once I realized what happened, I stopped the print, and repaired it. The front left pulley that caused the problems was still seemingly very tight, but I loosened it, pushed everything back into place, and tightened it up hard again. I'll keep an eye on it, but I didn't see any signs of it moving in subsequent prints.

 

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From my experience with the rod failing, in particular, I had a couple of thoughts about the streamlined user interface on the UM2 - it would be very helpful if the following maintenance features were available:

1) Abort print should pull the head up off the print, and maybe even home it in X and Y, or perhaps move it to front center for maintenance - and release the steppers.

2) I couldn't seem to find a 'release steppers' command, so after the abort, the head just sat on the print, and I couldn't easily move the head off it.

3) There needs to be finer control over bed height than just 'raise' and 'lower'.

 

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i really miss a "pause print" option and "change filament" during the print,also an option to turn off the led lights(during print), and manual feed material just before print in custom options (after press print)and cud feed material just a little before the print starts cud be amazing... :-P

dont really necesary but home head after bed leveling cud be good too.

 

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I'm still in the buying, or "decision making", process between the original UM and UM2.

I'm a little confused - are these features that are present with the original Ultimaker that have somehow been removed? Is it removed through the updates to Cura or by hardware changes?

(i'm referring to "pause print", "change filament", "release steppers", etc.)

 

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Hoping to receive my UM2 next week, i was wandering.

-Do you use the "ULTI G-code" standard generated by Cura, or did you switch to "Rep/Rap" for more control? (Cleary preferable from my point of view).

-And if you switched to "Rep rap" or want to generate programs using Slic3r or something similiar, do you need to change the steps per E firmware settings? (E in cubic mm or E in mm filament length).

 

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Currently it's lacking some features compared to the old one. There's no reason that the firmware can't be changed to add these features back.

 

Can and will. It's a simple case of time and priorities.

Cancel should home the head for example, but this does not always happen due to buffering issues. Pause always has been a troublesome thing.

 

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I use the Ultigcode so far - I like some of the things that it does, such as directly volumetric extruder coordinates, and firmware-based retraction.

The main disadvantage of Ultigcode is that you can't add your own start and end gcode. The other 'lack of control' issues relate to the control panel, and that doesn't really change based on the flavor of gcode.

I don't know the answer about steps-per-e...

Daid - if the UM2 is given a traditional gcode file, does it revert to expecting e-coords in linear mm of filament? More generally how does it decide if its being given a normal v. ultigcode file to work from?

 

Hoping to receive my UM2 next week, i was wandering.

-Do you use the "ULTI G-code" standard generated by Cura, or did you switch to "Rep/Rap" for more control? (Cleary preferable from my point of view).

-And if you switched to "Rep rap" or want to generate programs using Slic3r or something similiar, do you need to change the steps per E firmware settings? (E in cubic mm or E in mm filament length).

 

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I know it will come with time... :-) It can just be a bit frustrating if you know your way around a UM1 - it feels like there's a barrier between the user and the mechanism. I understand it's easier for new users, but it's now hard or impossible to make the finer adjsutments I'm used to.

FWIW, I don't think I've ever had it do anything but sit dead on the print after selecting 'abort' on a print with the UM2.

One thing I'd really like is preheat options - I know I can turn the bed and head on separately, but then I'm stuck twiddling the knob forever... I like being able to do 'Preheat PLA' and have everything heat up while I go copy the gcode onto the SD card. Then I can come back with the SD card, hit print, and the print starts pretty quickly.... I can check that the first layer is ok, and then leave it.

 

Can and will. It's a simple case of time and priorities.

Cancel should home the head for example, but this does not always happen due to buffering issues. Pause always has been a troublesome thing.

 

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I agree with your comments Illuminarti.

Also I'd like to add that when heating the head manually, it should not start at 0 as it takes way too many turns of the wheel to get it up to 180 and above.

In the repetier firmware for our Delta Tower, when you heat up manually it starts at 170 (once your start turning the wheel) so you do not have to turn to many times. I think it's a very small change and smart :)

 

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I have only been using my UM2 for a couple of hours and I already found the "start at 0" thing annoying. Many micro wave ovens have the same problem and there it is usually solved by the increase in value increases the more you turn and by that speeding up the increase of the temperature value. The user interface on most phones do the same these days.

 

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I got hold of an Ultimaker 2 yesterday, and I would echo Illuminarti's comments.

One thing I found worrying was when I aborted a print on the first layer, and hit the home button, this of course took the print head back to 0,0 in X & Y but did not move in Z. so the nozzle missed the metal clip that holds the glass down by millimeters.

Of course from now on I will always lower the bed first!

It would be great if when you abort a print the bed would lower by 5mm or so.

I am really impressed by the printer, i have not encountered any of the problems that some other users have found. Although my Ultimaker Original prints slightly better at the moment, but I am sure the UM2 will catch up as I get used to it.

 

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Hello Illuminarti

My front axis rod has also dropped out today (mine decided to go right). I have pushed it back but am not sure how to make sure it stays there. The rear rod was also on the move.

Along with the print bed scraping the unsecured shielding at the rear right and screws dropping out of the print head this machine is keeping me on my toes.

The Cura multiple print option not preventing the print head colliding with previous prints means that I will not be using that again.

Nevertheless I am enjoying the results when the machine does work so hopefully there will come a time (in the not too distant future) when these bugs are fixed and it will be able to achieve its full potential.

 

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The rod slides because the pulleys gradually work their way along the rod, even though they seem tight. What you need to do is loosen the pulley closest to where the rod sticks out, by undoing the grub screw in the pulley slightly. Then push the rod back in properly, and push the pulley as far as it will go towards that side of the printer. Except where the x & Y motors attach, there should be a spacer next to the pulley: push the pulley and spacer up against the bearing in the wall of the printer. Then tighten the pulley grub screw again, really tight. The rod is then held in place by the pulleys and spacers on each end being locked in place so that there's no room for the rod to slide in either direction.

I haven't had problems with the print head scraping on the motor covers, but I know some have; check that the fan ducting is bend squarely, and properly attached to the print head.

Finally, I'm surprised that Cura isn't getting multiple prints working correctly - I thought that was long since fixed; are you using the latest Cura? (13.11.2)

 

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Thanks for the help.

The scraping issue wasn't actually the print head but the print bed, but Ultimaker are going to do something about it. My attempts with tape are not successfully holding the shielding back for any length of time.

I have run a little multiple print test using Cura 13.11.2 rather than 13.11 as before and nothing got hit so I think this has been fixed. (It isn't listed in the overview of changes on the web page so I didn't think anything had been done).

 

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