Ender 3 Pro - Bed Adhesion Issue with Cura

[Fireowl87 0]

Hello All,

 

I am relatively new to 3D printing. I am having issues with the Cura Slicer while printing on my Ender 3 Pro. Whenever I have my 3D model ready in Cura then save the GCODE and start printing, the PLA will not adhere to the bed at all.

 

Now before you stay bed leveling, temperature heating or bed adhesive. When I use the Creality Slicer without fail the PLA adheres to the bed. It seems to be the strangest thing and I don’t understand what could be the difference between the two slicer softwares especially since I have read so many good reviews about Cura Slicer.
 

I have tried several different profiles in Cura with no success. I have even taken the Creality Slicer advanced setting and copied them all into Cura and still the PLA fails to adhere with Cura’s GCODE file.

 

Any helpful tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated! 

[GregValiant 1,318]

OK, I will not say "Now before you stay bed leveling, temperature heating or bed adhesive."

Check your 1st layer height.  I like .2mm but sometimes Cura will default to .28mm.  I think that's a bit too much gap to fill.

 

Just before the line ";Layer:0" in your gcode file, add a line "M221 S115" to set the flow rate at 115%.  You want to guarantee that the plastic gets smashed into the nice warm plumb build surface that has hair spray on it.

Search the gcode file for "Layer:1" and just before it, insert "M221 S100" to set the flow back to 100%.

 

I like to level the bed with parchment paper.  It's only .06mm thick and nothing sticks to it.  It's used to line oven baking pans.  I find that I'm much more consistent than I was using printer paper.

[Mari 36]

Duh.. an Ender 3 Pro has a flexible magnetic build surface, so no need for hair spray or other stuff to let the filament stick! Also no need to raise the flow-rate for the first layer...

 

Check this website: https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html

 

-- watch YouTube video & download gcode files for bedleveling! It is best to do bed leveling 2 times 😉

 

Use Cura with the default setting for an Ender 3 (Pro), later on you can change settings, first get the printer to work!

 

Don't forget to clean the build surface regular with isopropynol alcohol... 70% is enough, higher % will damage the build surface after some time.

[GregValiant 1,318]

I have an Ender 3 Pro.  I'll stand by my remarks.

[Fireowl87 0]

Hello All,

 

I really appreciate all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to respond.

 

Mari,

 

Thank you, the bed leveling information was helpful and informative. It did not solve this problem for me, but it did help in improve my prints from warping.

 

GregValiant,

 

I have not tried your suggestions specifically, but I do think it probably is in the right direction.

 

The solution I came up with base on GregValiant suggestion was taking the start and end GCODE from the Creality Slicer and pasting it into the Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 Machine Settings for the Ender 3 Pro.  This finally seemed to allow for my prints to stick to the bed. I will have to dig into it more, but something in the start GCODE from the Creality Slicer must work more effectively, then the default machine settings in Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 for the Ender 3 Pro. 

 

Start GCODE from Creality Slicer:

;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21        ;metric values
G90        ;absolute positioning
M82        ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107       ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3              ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

 

End GCODE from Creality Slicer: 

;End GCode
M104 S0                     ;extruder heater off
M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91                                    ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84                         ;steppers off
G90                         ;absolute positioning
M81
;{profile_string}

 

[GregValiant 1,318]

Those are pretty generic commands.  Your "End Gcode" area should probably have an M107 in it to turn the fan off in case it was on.

I actually stole some code from the start of one of the Benchmark pieces (the klein bottle).  I liked the fact that it put down some lines before printing actually started.

A heavier flow at the start makes sure that the plastic is getting pushed into the build surface, and that the lines are welded together.  It's a crutch, but it worked to get me started with successful first layers every time.  Consistent bed leveling and just practice with the machine will get you going.  This FDM stuff is not a fast manufacturing process anyway so going slow at first (20-25mm/sec) isn't a bad idea either.  We all need something to get the confidence up.

I had problems at first with what I thought were clogs in the nozzle.  It turned out (after a bunch of youtubes and articles) that my hot end had been put together with a slant cut on the end of the bowden tube.  It just wasn't sealing when the nozzle was tightened and plastic was escaping and jamming the hot end.  It was a pain to chase down, but I have to say I learned a lot.  The machine still tries to fool me, but I'm much better now at figuring out its tricks.  Good Luck. 

Here's my main project.  I think there's 55 separate printed pieces on it.

Edited June 2, 2020 by GregValiant

[amalinahmad 0]

Hello Fireowl87,

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a week or so ago and am facing the exact same problem as you did. When I printed the test files that came with the memory card (dog and cat), they came out perfect. However, when I start to print my own files (sliced with Cura), they do not stick to the bed at all and I have tried everything - glue stick, hairspray, changing the initial layer height...to no avail. I've also tried using the start and end gcode you pasted above, but it doesn't seem to work? Could you please once again copy and paste your start and end code exactly as you have it?

 

[Mari 36]

I have an Ender 3 Pro... 😉   Magnetic Flex Buildplate needs no gluestick, hairspray or whatever... just clean it with Isopropynol alcohol (70%)...

 

You can try my Start/End-Gcode... it does work for my printer!

 

Start:

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
M300 S1000 P500 ; chirp to indicate starting to print
G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

End:

G91 ;Relative positionning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

M117 Print Completed
M300 S440 P200 ; Make Print Completed Tones
M300 S660 P250
M300 S880 P300

 

Edited August 28, 2020 by Mari
Type errors ;-)

[amalinahmad 0]

Hi Mari,

firstly thanks for your reply and for the start and end codes.

 

I don't use the magnetic flex buildplate that came with my printer as it was so warped I could not level the bed, so I swapped to using a Creality glass bed instead.

 

I just tried printing one of my files using your start and end codes but it doesn't seem to work with my printer either, and I just don't understand what the problem could be. You can see what I mean in the picture attached. It's just not adhering to the surface at all. I print with the hot-end heated at 200 deg, and build plate at 60 deg. The dog and cat prints that came with the memory card were even programmed to print with the bed at 45 deg and even that stuck well. Any ideas?

[GregValiant 1,318]

The wide skirt lines in the front and the narrow skirt in the back seem to indicate that the front is higher than the back.  Mari's Gcode snippet has two lines drawn on the left side.  How did they look?

Have you tried putting it on a brim?  You can adjust the leveling while the brim is printing.

 

I always use hair spray to help adhesion to the glass build plate.  Everybody has their favorite and that's mine for my Ender3Pro. 

 

I'd give the plate a good bath and take care that no fingerprints get on it.  Then put on a light coat of the adhesion promoter of your choice, level VERY carefully, and have at it again.

[amalinahmad 0]

Hi GregValiant,

thanks for the above suggestions. I printed a bed level test file that I downloaded from Thingiverse, and that turned out alright, as you can see from the attached picture.

 

I then tried printing a different file than the one I printed yesterday (but also sliced with Cura), the two lines in Mari's gcode came out fine, as well as the skirt of the print. But as it started laying down the first layer of the actual product, everything goes haywire and the nozzle pushes the filament aside as nothing stuck!

 

I've tried using hairspray before with this bed, and in my opinion it just made things worse. Besides, all other files (that are not mine) seem to print fine without any adhesion problems. So I assume the issue is with my files...if anyone wants to have a go at printing a file from me, I've also attached it. You don't have to print the whole thing, just the first few layers to see if it will stick.

CE3PRO_arch.gcode

[Mari 36]

Post the STL-file, so we can print it with our own settings to see if there is a difference!

 

What material are you printing and what is the on the manufactures label for printing temperatures?

Edited August 29, 2020 by Mari

[amalinahmad 0]

Hey Mari,

here's the STL-file.

arch.stl

[Mari 36]

I'm now printing your Gcode-file, have no problems with bed adhesion... For the PLA I use right now, the print temperature of 200 degrees is a little low, I normally print on 210 degrees (and bed temp on 50 degrees).

 

Next print will be the same file, but only with 210/50 degrees for nozzle & bed...

 

Edited August 29, 2020 by Mari
added photo

[GregValiant 1,318]

That leveling pattern looks good.  It must be something in your settings having an effect on flow.

 

In Cura under Material there are a bunch of Flow settings.  Double check that they are all at 100%.  Initial Layer Flow does not update when you change the main flow number.

In you machine settings for the extruder - double check that the filament size is 1.75mm.

Also double check that the nozzle size listed in Cura is the same as the one you are using.

[Mari 36]

... Now I have changed only the Nozzle/Bed temperatures (I know the PLA I use prints better on 210 degrees!)

 

You can see in the front left corner that the bed adhesion is a little better than in the print before! So maybe you should test what the best Nozzle-temp is for the material you use...

 

 

[Mari 36]

17 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

That leveling pattern looks good.  It must be something in your settings having an effect on flow.

 

That should have been visible in my prints also... I used his Gcode-files, so his settings on flow etc.

 

[amalinahmad 0]

@GregValiant Flow was previously at 95%, but I've changed it to 100% and tried printing again - I don't think it changed much...

I've double checked that the filament size is right, same with my nozzle size (0.2).

 

I've noticed that it keeps messing up at the exact same spots though, which are these corners (see attached). When the nozzle extrudes at these corners, it kind of leaves it curled up so it doesn't adhere, and then later goes over it and pushes it aside/drags it along.

 

@Mari I'm not so sure if nozzle and/or bed temperature is the issue here, as I've successfully printed other files at my current nozzle and bed temp with no issue. In any case, I've just tried printing at 210 deg as well - but still the same problem.

[amalinahmad 0]

@Mari Did you also use Cura to slice? Would you mind sending over the gcode-file that you sliced of my STL-file?

[Mari 36]

I did not slice it, simply used your Gcode-file for both prints, only changed the nozzle/bed temperature via Octoprint-Control-Panel...

 

You say you use a 0.2 nozzle, I have printed your file with a 0.4 nozzle... should have made some difference!  Did you change nozzle from 0.4 to 0.2 or only in Cura? Ender 3 (Pro) has standard a 0.4 nozzle!

 

Try changing filament, I once had a role of PLA that made my printer produce bad prints!

[GregValiant 1,318]

My bad...I didn't see the gcode file up here.

Have you tried moving the model (in Cura) to a different location on the build plate?  Once selected you can grab an arrow and slide it.

 

[GregValiant 1,318]

I looked at the gcode file.  The flow numbers look OK for a .2 nozzle at .08 layer height.  But the Initial Layer Height is .30mm.  That would seem to be a stretch for a .2mm nozzle.  Maybe you just aren't getting enough squish to push the plastic onto the build plate.  I suggest changing the Initial Layer Height to .15mm and trying again.

[amalinahmad 0]

Hey guys,

@GregValiant Bingo!!! I changed the inital layer height to 0.15mm like you said, and it helped but still not a 100% so I lowered it further to 0.12mm and this worked like a charm!

 

@Mari I also played around with nozzle and bed temperature like you suggested, and I think I've found a sweet spot where the adhesion is just perfect.

 

Thank you both for your help and suggestions, I'm done pulling my hair out 😄

 

Another small issue though, does anyone know what causes these blobs/ridges (see pic)? I had the same issue with the printer I was using before (MP Select Mini V2) this as well and haven't managed to figure out how to fix it.

 

 

[GregValiant 1,318]

Are you sure that "back view" one is labeled correctly?  You really can't get raised areas on the bed side.

Give your build surface a good bath, and make sure all plastic residue is off of it.  Check it closely for mars and gouges in the surface.  Don't get fingerprints on it.  In Cura - move the model so it prints somewhere else on the plate to see if it was just that area of the build surface.

[Mari 36]

bad adhesion first layer at some parts of the buildplate... Like @GregValiant said, clean the buildplate... and make sure the bed leveled correctly!

 

Having to work gluestick/hairspray was for me the reason not to choose a glass printbed... I switched to a flex steel sheet with Lokbuild... much much easier to work with!