UM 3 Ext- Difference between

[mrGokhan 0]

hi all, 

 

i have this ultimaker 3 extended version which iam having problems with.

 

Right now its not running due to error " Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values"

 

I cleaned up the nozzles and glass plate.

I have manually leveled and it still cant run due to error. Even sometimes it can run but there is no matiearil coming out of the nozzles, sometimes the nozzles are to close even after leveling.

 

Im really annoyed buy this, i really want someone to help me with it step by step

 

[fbrc8-erin 272]

There's a couple of things to check to start--during the active leveling process is your second Print Core moving up and down with the lift switch as it should? If it doesn't you will get an active leveling error.

 

The other thing is to check your manual leveling--if the build plate is too high it will error out as well. You want the heated metal plate to be about level with the center lip on the base plate; I have photos and a video here.

[mrGokhan 0]

 

[mrGokhan 0]

Yes the second core moving up and down. I have recorded a video of the auto leveling  proccess.

[fbrc8-erin 272]

Open your printhead and check out the red and white cables that plug into the metal bracket. If either is severed, damaged, or not connected, the printer won't realize the nozzle and bed have made contact.

[mrGokhan 0]

i have also checked the cables, nothing to see. The red one seem to be more shakey but its still connected.

Where does this red cable go _? maybe i can measure the contiunity

[fbrc8-erin 272]

The red and white cables both need to be seated firmly in the metal bracket or it won't work.

 

They plug into the metal bracket at one end, and the printhead PCB on the back of the printer at the other.

[gr5 2,167]

That video is really good.  I couldn't see anything wrong.

 

First realize that Erin is an expert at this and knows more about it than me.  But I have fixed a few issues with leveling.

 

If it passes the level sensor check in the menu, then the cables are probably fine.

 

I know Erin says you should do the 14mm gap in that link she posted but in the video the nozzle touches the glass longer than what I normally expect.  I'd raise the bed a few mm.  It's important that the springs in the bed are weaker than the springs in the 2 cores.  Because the level sensor is capactive and determines the distance from the print head to the bed.  As it moves slowly towards the bed this capacitance constantly changes.  It only stops changing if the nozzle can push the bed down a little.  If instead the nozzle goes up into the head then it won't notice that the nozzle hit the glass.

 

So weaken the springs by turning the 3 leveling screws several full turns to raise the bed (counter clockwise as seen from below).  And try again.

[mrGokhan 0]

Hi Erin and gr5

 

I have run the level sensor in the menu and it fails with "interference  detected on the sensor signal..."

I will try to check the sensor and cable

 

 

 

[mrGokhan 0]

i have replaced both cables, and unfortunately same error

[fbrc8-erin 272]

Try unplugging your black and white front fan and running active leveling with it unplugged. If there's damage to that cable it will cause electrical interference. If it works with that unplugged, you need a new front fan.

[mrGokhan 0]

hi Erin, 

 

I have disconnected both fan-cables but same error 😞

 

[Torgeir 242]

Hi mrGokhan,

 

What Erin said is important, this sensing of the "captive" sensor measuring the distance between the head nozzle and the bed are using capacitans in order to measure distance. This kind of sensor is very sensitive for noise and such fans can radiate much noise (if it fails). So it is a good advice to disconnect them and do another test!

The first thing she asked was to check the red and withe wires connected to the captive sensor.

Those two wires may break at sometimes, because they is bend every time the front door is opened.

 

Ok.

Inside the head there is a PCB that's have three converters, converting an analogue signal to digital format.

This is why it is not possible to measure wire to wire from head to inside the main PCB.

The wire you think have contact, possibly have not.  Remember how all this thing started and the outcome.

 

Here we go:

Note well; it is very easy to damage anything inside the "print heads" PCB.

Here's a picture of the two wires inside the front door of this type of head.

 

I'll assume this is the same color as in the UM3 (this is mine S3). So check this is right!

 

Second picture:

Here I've added a little text for understanding.

 

Third picture:

Here just marked the (jack) J7 in the wiring.

 

Fourth picture the print head PCB indicating the position of relevant connector.

 

Lastly, I've never seen an UM3, so all this info is based on the wiring of the system I've found on Github.

 

If you have a valid warranty and anything go wrong, it is on your own responsibility (just so it is said).

 

Good luck

Thanks.

 

Torgeir

 

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Torgeir
Name spelling.

[Torgeir 242]

Hi mrGokhan,

 

In all this writing, I forgot to mention the most Important issue with this new generation print head from Ultimaker.

 

Well, the only old fashion wiring in here, -is the wiring for both heat element in each core left and right. This one can be measured all the way from the "print head" to the main PCB in the bottom of the printer.

 

All the remaining thing inside the "print head" is controlled and monitored digitally!

There is some exceptions, if the fan is actually running -is not detected, or if a led do not work in the print head etc.

 

What does this mean, you may ask?

 

The erratic reading of the "captive sensor" is communicated between the main board and the print head, so the fault you have is located inside the "print head".

 

If the main board have a problem in communication with the "print head" there will be some sort of communication error between in here. As there is a number of those paired communication channels, there will be an error for each of them I'll assume. 

 

But all this stuff is kind of new to me, but I'll dig a little more to see the variants of comm error.

 

--

Edit:

 

Ok. Here is the errors I found in UM3 user manual.

(PS. This might be revised in later versions from Ultimaker).

 

This is an excerpt from the UM3 user manual.

 

Here is those errors found related to active communication with the "print head".

 

•There is a communication error with the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER18.
• There is an I2C communication error. Go to ultimaker.com/ER19.
•There was a sensor error within the print head. Go to ultimaker.com/ER21.

 

This one is not directly related to the "print head".

• Active leveling correction failed. Manual level the build plate or go to ultimaker.com/ER22.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Edit end

---

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Torgeir
Print head error numbers.

[poligonaltree 0]

For Anyone reading this with the same problem in this printer the actual error comes from the two printer heads being measure not in the right order.

As you can see in the video posted by mrGokhan the first printer head to be measure is the printer head B, and then it measures the Printer head A. that means that the relative distance is in fact negative and therefore giving a non realistic values.

The solution is to manually switch the printer head B up, so it starts to measure the printer A first. Why this is happening, I am not sure.

 

[IRobertI 520]

4 hours ago, poligonaltree said:

For Anyone reading this with the same problem in this printer the actual error comes from the two printer heads being measure not in the right order.

As you can see in the video posted by mrGokhan the first printer head to be measure is the printer head B, and then it measures the Printer head A. that means that the relative distance is in fact negative and therefore giving a non realistic values.

The solution is to manually switch the printer head B up, so it starts to measure the printer A first. Why this is happening, I am not sure.

 

If the right core is not in the correct position during the measurement, the solution is not to manually move it before starting the print. The printer will lower/raise the core automatically when needed, if it fails to do this on its own then it's most likely a problem with the lift switch calibration. Luckily that's easily fixed by running the calibration utility on the printer which takes less than a minute to do.