Thanks Smithy; I’ll try that first.
I’m in for a fun project. Parts are on order to replace the top frame, front frame, all flanged bearings, axles, trapezoidal screw, limit switches, and the extruder (2+) upgrade.
Hopefully this will work better than new when I’m done. The damaged top panel looks like a trapezoid and is about 1.5 inches out of square. This is what happens during shipping when someone just carelessly throws it in a box with no support!
I just went through a similar process with a UM3. I removed every panel, the print head, the dial, all of it. Even had to remove, clean and re route the wiring back to original pathways.
Light soap and water mix on a paper towel for the side panels first, but 70% alcohol on anything near electronics. Wet the cloth/towel first...
I would stay away from acetone or anything stronger than alcohol.
There is one remaining spot that I think I need something stronger on. The mark is cosmetic and I decided not to risk melting the plastic, so the mark is staying. Otherwise, the unit is in brand new condition.
Oh that sucks! If the frame is trapezoidal then when you go to print a square you will get a trapezoid and when you go to print a circle you will get an ellipse. If the frame isn't flat in the vertical/Z direction and it's not just tilted but "saddle shaped" for example where 2 opposite corners are higher then the other 2 corners, then you won't be able to level the bed without bending it into the same saddle shape.
If you are in USA (you mentioned inches) then contact fbrc8 and ask them how much for a top panel for a UM2+. Maybe some of the side panels as well. It won't likely be on their website but you can email them at support@fbrc8.com. To save time include your serial number of your printer in the email.
But you can probably just bend everything back to square. I know people on this forum who were successful.
Note that it's more important that the rods are all square (and basically all in the same plane or parallel to the same plane) than that the frame itself is square. Although it's probably almost the same thing.
And check that the rods are totally straight, not bent. Even if they are only 0.1mm bent out of shape, thus almost invisible, that is a full layer-height during printing. Maybe put them on a totally flat table, roll them, and see if light shines through below them.
I would also go for window-cleaner, or Mr. Proper or similar, spray bottles to get dirt off. Whatever works in a dirty kitchen, without destroying things, should work here too, I think. And then clean with pure warm tap water, to get the soapy-remains off.
1
2 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:Just a suggestion on the water. Make the investment in distilled or de-ionized water. Depending where you live, there can be high enough mineral content (and other additives) in the tap water that you'll give yourself issues later.
J
Hoi John,
Out of curiosity, did you have any specific mineral-related issues in mind? We here in Belgium (near Antwerp, it differs elsewhere) we have very hard water, thus very calcium-rich. It really feels "hard" to the touch, totally different from de-ionized water that feels much softer. If you let a glass full of water dry out, there is a thick layer of calcium-deposit. Also in boilers and kettles. But when cleaning with this water, then rinsing, and wiping things dry, or compressed-air blowing them dry, I have never seen any side-effects.
But this could of course be different in other places with other chemicals.
I also have very very hard water. My dishwasher is encrusted with this white powder. Vinegar removes it. We clean the tea pot every month.
Anyway I do a final clean of the glass with "glass plus". I have never felt a need to use distilled water for 3d printing purposes. I use it for my soldering iron sponge but for cleaning and drinking I use tap water.
WRT minerals, we get quite a range here in Canada, likely in other countries the same, calcium, but also conductive stuff like iron. (which of course conveniently adds rust to things as it dries)
My concern is really over what gets wiped down and where water goes undesired and unseen. Like George, I'm careful with water around soldering too and use alcohol around boards to clean when safe to do so (and that's not always).
Not sure if this helps...
J
Edited by JohnInOttawa23 minutes ago, JohnInOttawa said:WRT minerals, we get quite a range here in Canada, likely in other countries the same, calcium, but also conductive stuff like iron. (which of course conveniently adds rust to things as it dries)
My concern is really over what gets wiped down and where water goes undesired and unseen. Like George, I'm careful with water around soldering too and use alcohol around boards to clean when safe to do so (and that's not always).
Not sure if this helps...
J
Ah, okay, yes I can see the iron/rust concern, if that stuff would get under or into tiny circuits, solderings, and connectors or so. Might also change impedances or resonances at very high frequencies or very low-current circuits. Fortunately iron is not an issue in our tap-water. (Though it could be for people who pump up their own ground-water, which is often brown because of high iron-content.)
Ok, I got this totally torn apart and rebuilt. I replaced pretty much all the mechanical parts besides the x and y motors. Attached you’ll see the old top panel laying over the new one , lined up at one corner.
The assembly instructions called for using acetone for prepping the clad surface for the led strip, so I used it everywhere but the side panels. For those I used soap and water.
I’m pretty impressed with these test prints. The 20 mm cube is only off 0.02 mm in x and y over and the z 0.1mm over.
Not bad for my first 3d printing experience!
1
I don’t see that it affected it in any way. I tested on one of the old panels first after reading about it in the assembly manual. Make sure to use a non-dyed cloth or it will transfer the dye over. This happened to me with so I switched to a white towel and all the dye came off. It looks new.
Edited by andybgoodDustin posted a topic in Firmware,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
Recommended Posts
Smithy 1,141
I was in the same situation last year and I got the best result with normal soap and I tried before some sprays and other things. Acteone is too aggresive and will probably damage the finish and IPA is mostly not able to remove the dirt.
Link to post
Share on other sites