Ultimaker S5 print with CPE+

[zeeg617 0]

Hi,

 

When I  printed with CPE+ on Ultimaker S5 with the default profile applied glue stick on the bed before printing. The first layer looked really bad and I don't know if that's normal. Could you take a look and give some advice? The nozzle was also covered with white CPE+ filament when I abort the print.

 

Is this because the bed is too hot? How can I change it so it can look as good as I print with tough PLA?

 

Best

 

 

 

 

[gr5 2,230]

PLA is the best looking material out there as far as I've experienced.  It's just such a beautiful printing material that we are so spoiled when we run into something else.

 

1) Are you sue you didn't see similar "waves" above your first layer of PLA prints?

2) Did you use glue stick on your regular PLA prints?  If not but you did here then start over, remove all plastic from the glass, do much less glue stick.  Then take a wet paper towel or tissue and smear the glue stick all around and thin it removing 95% of the glue and leaving a very thin, wet layer.  Once it is dry you can print again and you might not get those waves.

3) Those waves won't be visible by the time you get to the 3rd layer.  Is it really important that portions of the part you can't see look beautiful?  I guess this is a stupid question.  Are those waves visible from the bottom?

[stan_bulgaria 4]

My experience with CPE.

After I finished the test PLA that came with my Ender 3 V2 I print only CPE - from two different producers and different colours. It took me almost one month to set the correct temperatures.

 

1. Here in the forum is described how to prepare the bed. In my case I cleaned the bare glass and sprayed it with hair spray - very light. That was before may be 16-17 prints. I haven't cleaned it or sprayed it again ever since. The models are sticking perfectly (I was surprised with the last as it is air plane tale without support, only raft).

 

2. Check the correct temperature at which the filament starts to freely go out of the nozzle. In my case the factory suggested T was 255-275C. It appeared the material starts flowing at 205 C. I print with it at 225 and when I want stronger bond 235C. The other colors print at 205-210. So make a test for the correct temperature. Otherwise you'll have blobs and huge stringing in layers above.

 

3. Bed temperature - same as point 2. After trials from 60 to 90 C it appeared for me 70-75 C is correct. In fact my first layers are perfect compared to the ones above. At T above 80C de-bonding is very easy.

 

On your pictures it looks like the material was "boiling" or the glue evaporated and made bubbles. This is why your nozzle is dirty. At the beginning my nozzle was also picking a lot of material. Play with the temperature.

 

Good luck.

[stan_bulgaria 4]

I forgot one thing - I don't dry the filaments, if makes any difference. The humidity in the room I print is around 50%+-5, air temperature 18-20C.

[zeeg617 0]

Just want to share an update of the finished print. It actually looked alright, not as good as PLA but also not a complete disaster.

 

I am going to try to lower the nozzle temperature to 235  and bed temp to 90 to see how the print looks.

 

 

 

[stan_bulgaria 4]

I think you need lower bed T - 90C may be quite a lot. 70C would be more safe. However every filament is different.

[stan_bulgaria 4]

I hope you have solved the issue already.

 

One more thing I forgot. When I print the raft - the first 4 layers, I don't use the fan. I switch it off from the fine tuning of the printer. Starting from the fifth layer the fan gradually gets to the working speed - in my case 205 rpm.