Adhesion Issues with UM Transparent PP

[PaulC91 1]

Hi All,

 

First post. I'm trying to print for the first time using Ultimaker Polyprop.

 

The issue I'm having is the print warping. My first attempt, it printed about half of the part and then must have moved causing offset. I didn't use any glue on this attempt.

My second attempt, I used glue on the build plate but this also warped and subsequently moved whilst printing.

 

Anyone have any ideas as to what I can try? 

 

Attached image of part. OD Ø114mm x 94mm high

 

 

Machine is a S5 with AirManager.

Settings used are UM recommeneded (90°c initial layer & 85 there after).

Printed with brim.

 

I'm fairly new to printing and had the S5 since Feb 2021. Mainly printing with tough PLA to date.

 

Thanks,

 

Paul

[orlin278 14]

I also had your problems in the beginning and I were never really able to solve it with just glue. Ultimaker recommends adhesion sheets, I mostly use some cheap kapton tape (not original Kapton). 

 

If you have problems in future with any materials, Ultimaker is providing imo great informations on their materials, for PP see following: 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011957660-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-PP

[Framar 38]

When printing PP, I put packaging tape on the bed surface. The tape will fuse with the molten filament.

[PaulC91 1]

34 minutes ago, Framar said:

When printing PP, I put packaging tape on the bed surface. The tape will fuse with the molten filament.

I like the sound of this. Any issues encountered when using this method or tips?

[PaulC91 1]

35 minutes ago, Framar said:

When printing PP, I put packaging tape on the bed surface. The tape will fuse with the molten filament.

 

55 minutes ago, orlin278 said:

I also had your problems in the beginning and I were never really able to solve it with just glue. Ultimaker recommends adhesion sheets, I mostly use some cheap kapton tape (not original Kapton). 

 

If you have problems in future with any materials, Ultimaker is providing imo great informations on their materials, for PP see following: 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011957660-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-PP

Thanks for tip regarding the Kapton tape, I'll have a look at this.

 

I did look at the How-to before printing but obviously ignored the glue part of it! I have been using glue with most of my tough PLA prints.

 

Do you ever change temperature settings when printing PP or do you just use the recommended? 

[SandervG 1,521]

Hello, I'm glad someone linked to the support articles. They are a good resource to check first. I would indeed recommend using the adhesion sheets or something similar. There are upsides and downsides to an adhesion sheet, a downside being that the entire adhesion sheet is not easy to remove so you will have one side of your buildplate with the adhesion sheet. (Unless you have more than one glass plates). A friendly alternative, which is also mentioned in the support article is the adhesive from Magigoo: https://magigoo.com/products/magigoo-pp/ Magigoo has pretty good adhesives for 3D printing. 

 

Not every glue is the same, so the same glue you have been using for PLA will not be sufficient for PP. PP warps much stronger than PLA does. Good luck!

[PaulC91 1]

Hi All,

I thought I would give an update of my PP print.

So after it was suggested to try the Magigoo PP, this has worked perfectly. Great adhesion achieved with a slight bit of warp but nothing excessive. 

 

The only notable issue is there was a fair bit of stringing. The outer surfaces of the part are pretty good even when using the 0.2 Draft profile. The internal bore was quite rough with 'blobs'. I used some sand paper to clean this up as best I can. I don't think this will have much effect on the finished application - more a visual/aesthetic thing.

 

Is this finish due to the profile I used or is there other things I could look at adjusting for any subsequent prints with PP?

 

Thanks all for your support.

 

Regards,

 

Paul

[geert_2 558]

I haven't printed with PP yet, so no recommendations on that. Although generally (for PLA and PET anyway), printing slow, in thin layers, and at the cool edge of the temp-range, tends to lessen strings.

 

But when manually sanding or filing PP (fridge boxes or so), this also gives lots of fibers: it is hard to get the surface smooth. This is the strength of PP, it is why live hinges are working so well. So I think this could be caused by the fibrous nature of the PP material itself.

 

What might works is cutting them with a very sharp scalpel (surgical knife), or melting with a hot air gun?