Tweak Settings to Remove Warped Output?

[lothian 1]

Longer LK4 Pro (amzn.com/B08JPRL5BJ)
HATCHBOX PLA (amzn.com/B00J0ECR5I)
Fusion360 and Cura v4.11

Each time I print the object below--70 x 32 x 8mm block with a few channels--the thing comes out warped on the plate side as shown in the images. I've generated plenty of objects with this printer using Cura as my slicer with zero issues. I've never experienced this problem before.

 

From within Cura, I lowered/raised printer's plate temp; I increased/decreased Quality/Infill settings; I moved the print location on the plate--same result every time.

 

I'm stumped. This is the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge diddling with Cura settings, and now I reach out out for suggestions leading to a solution.

[Carbon 28]

Try printing with a "Brim"

 

[gr5 2,173]

There are about 4 things you can do to fix this.  Brim is only one of them but you will probably have to do all 4.  Your part is unusually difficult being a solid block but it can definitely be done!  Don't give up.  It's complicated so I made a video to explain in detail why the problem happens, quick summary of what to do and then detailed video of what to do.  Yes it's kind of a long video but it's packed with crucial info much of which you will need:

 

 

 

[geert_2 557]

A lot of my prints are about that size, 100% filled, also with holes. But ususally they print fine without problems.

 

However, recently I found that on some new "PLA" materials (non-Ultimaker), I needed to increase bed temp to 65°C to make them stick well. The plastic also has a different feel, and a slightly different sound when dropped. Seems like a different PLA-blend? In one case it needed 70°C, which even didn't cause elephant feet, so I am wondering about its composition? Bizarre, since I never had that in 7 years...

 

Further, if you would be printing on bare glass, without any bonding method, then try one. Moist and rainy weather gives very poor bonding on bare glass, in my experience. Also: dirt, oils, grease and soap (from cleaning) on the glass give very poor bonding. So after cleaning the bed, rinse it with pure warm tap water only, no soaps, no detergents.

 

I use my "salt method" for bonding: gently wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water. This leaves a very thin almost invisible mist of salt on the glass, like a glass that got dirty from sitting too long without being used. This gives good bonding when hot, but no bonding at all after cooling down, so models pop off by themself.

 

This salt method works well for long flat models like shown below. But it is not recommended for narrow high models like lantern poles: they tend to get knocked over. Only works for PLA, not for ABS. For PET and polyesters, it tends to slightly reduce bonding, and thereby also reduces the risk of chipping the glass.

 

Anyway, if you would try this, stay with the printer and carefully watch what happens, to see if it works for your setup and your materials, and so that you can abort if it would cause problems.

 

Or try different bonding methods like: dilluted wood glue, glue stick, hairspray, 3D-lac or any other bonding method you prefer.

 

Typical models: