It's better if you split each problem into a separate thread. Include photos of the part that isn't working as there are different versions of things like the temperature sensor in the nozzle. Screenshots of the problem in Pronterface might be helpful also. Actually a single photo of the bottom of your printer and a single photo of the entire print head will be helpful.
If I don't respond within 12 hours send me a direct message with a link to your topic.
So that’s what I got, the connections seem to be fine, pronterface can’t even connect to the printer. Firmware was updated but still nothing happened. I have absolutely no clue what to do now
Okay - yeah that's pretty bad. You have an "Ultimaker Original". Not a plus.
So you need to exit cura for pronterface to work. They can't both access the USB at the same time. You didn't show me pronterface in the video. I hope you already know that.
Okay so no text on the screen. Sometimes the contrast is off on the screen so badly that you see nothing but I suspect that is not the problem. Contrast control is only accessible if you remove the wooden covering of the ulticontroller. If you spin the knob and push on the knob you typically hear clicking and beeping sounds but that can be disabled. It might be that the previous owner disabled that feature but I doubt it.
So here is the first idea - it's possible the two cables are backwards. The 2 ribbon cables going from the printer to the controller. The cables can be inserted 4 different ways.
By the way never leave the bottom cover off the circuit board with power on! The fan is very important!
First download the pdf manual for the printer here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012029639-Assembling-the-Ultimaker-Original
OH MY GOD THAT MANUAL SUCKS! The original manual - I can't find it. It was online only. It was a wiki. Anyone could edit it and any errors would be undone by ultimaker staff. Don't download that manual.
Okay well just try swapping the 2 ribbon cables underneath the printer. Often people disconnect those for transportation. I would only power on for 5 seconds at the most (takes 1 second for display to fully boot up). If that doesn't help then switch the cables back.
If it's not the cables then it's the arduino. The arduino can function all by itself. I would remove the arduino and order a new one. They cost maybe $10. Maybe less. Make sure you get the same type. After you remove the arduino you can inspect it to find out what type of arduino it is.
Even if you don't plug power into the printer, if you plug in the USB that should be enough to run the arduino and to power up the ulticontroller display. And even if the display is broken, the arduino should respond through the USB cable.
It is possible the Arduino is fine. Cura doesn't work very well through the USB cable. Pronterface works great but you need to have the right baudrate. I think it's 115200? Something similar to that number. Try the top 3 fastest baudrates. Make sure the COM port shows up in windows device manager.
When you plug the USB cable into a computer you should hear the windows sound that a USB device was just connected. The same sound as if you plug in a mouse or keyboard. If you don't know this sound then do it right now - unplug then replug in the mouse (or keyboard). Then do this with the UMO and if you hear the sound then that's a good start. Go to "device manager" and look for a new COM port that appears when you plug in the UMO. If that doesn't happen then you may need to install a different arduino driver. Do a google search on "which arduino usb driver should I be using?" or something like that. There are literally millions of people who use arduinos through usb cables and there is one driver that doesn't work so well. So it's not to hard to find info using google.
Anyway if the COM port shows up then your arduino may be fine. It will be like COM3 or COM6 or COM11 or similar. Values above around COM6 won't work with Cura usually but work great with printrun/pronterface.
If after struggling you can't get a COM port I would buy a new arduino.
Note that you will have to install the UMO firmware onto the new arduino. Through the USB cable. You can do that through pronterface or through Cura. Make sure you install UMO firmware and not UMO+ firmware (or UM2 firmware).
2
Alllrighty,
First of all thank you very much for your feedback.
I find the COM3 Port but sadly the school PC's dont allow Pronterface to interact with the printer 😕 (or maybe it was just me running Cura and Pronterface at the same time ツ). Furthermore if I plugged the Arduino in, it actually made a sound 😄 I will try running the screen when I am back at school.
Is there any image of which Cable does exactly belong where? Just in case its wrong :D.
Have a nice Weekend and We'll talk next week.
Many people have plugged the two ribbon cables in backwards without damaging anything. I think the red line on the edge of the ribbon cable helps with alignment but I don't remember the details. Typically the red line is for pin 1 which is often marked in very tiny writing on the circuit board or on the plastic connectors. Or both. I think the connectors actually only go in one way. But the cables can be accidentally swapped.
Is this primary school or university?
Try again with pronterface. Make sure it is set for COM3 (actually that may change each time you plug it in but typically it stays the same if you plug into the same usb port each time on the same computer). Make sure the baud rate is 115200 (or the next slower speed - 57600 - try both). I think maybe you hit "connect" somewhere. When you do connect it will suddenly report lots of information such as the version of Marlin that is running and lots of parameters like max speed, acceleration and many other things. Then you can move a motor or check the temperature of the nozzle or turn on the nozzle heater.
Extruder will not rotate unless you "allow cold extrudes" or heat it to 190C.
If things are working well with pronterface and swapping ribbon cables doesn't help then I would play with the contrast on the ulticontroller. But you have to remove the cover. There's a tiny potentiometer in there.
Hey there, I am on a primary school in Germany,
I tried running pronterface and it kind of worked? But there was a catch, what can I do about it?
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: Mar 15 2018 13:02:05 | Author: (David Braam)
Compiled: Mar 15 2018
echo: Free Memory: 4094 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Stored settings retrieved
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S4000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
Error:0
[ERROR] Error:0
: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
echo:SD init fail
Disconnected.
I have IT class Wednesdays, thursdays and Fridays, so I probably can only work on these days on it.
The Controller has no Potetiometer or I cant see it. I dismantled it but still it wont work.
Even though it has errors, Pronterface can return to home, in this case only the X Motor gets triggered, is that correct?
And if I say that it should heat, it doesnt... when I stop it it just spams pronterface with "Heating Failed"
Update: Firmware was updated and it seems to be running… display is still not active, it doesn’t dispense pla, I will look but it seems like it doesnt extrude. Extrude motor is running though.
You show an all text output but I hope you are using pronterface which is a GUI. It has a home button shaped like a house. You can move the axis by clicking the arrows. Is that what you are using?
The temperature error may have been caused by you putting UMO+ firmware on a UMO. Make sure you have the UMO printer. So is the nozzle heating up properly now?
I'm guessing yes.
So is the display still not working? You can print through pronterface if you want but it would be nice if you could get the display to work. If you can connect just fine through pronterface but the display still shows nothing then I would try to adjust the contrast on the controller.
Here is the assembly manual for the UMO. You can use this to check things like the temperature sensor connections (often one of the wires falls out on top of the print head).
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012029639-Assembling-the-Ultimaker-Original
So assuming:
1) printer homes all 3 axes
2) printer heats up the nozzle
Then please show a photo of your feeder - people often get confused about how to close the feeder onto the filament. It should be VERY tight against the filament.
Try heating up the nozzle only using pronterface to 200C and then try turning the gear to push the filament through the nozzle. Make sure you can get filament to squirt out the nozzle. If that is working then your feeder is probably closed properly and you can try leveling and then try making a print. To level set Z position to zero by homing it and the nozzle should just touch the print bed. If not then adjust the 4 leveling screws. Move the print head around to make sure the print bed and the nozzle are coplanar (such that the nozzle just barely hits the print bed everywhere.
Then try printing something. Start small.
What town in Germany? Maybe someone here on the forum lives near you who is an expert. Certainly @foehnsturm or @tinkergnome both live in Germany and are experts on the Ultimaker original. They are both very nice people. I've met them both in real life. And both very smart.
In Hannover (Lower Saxony/Niedersachsen)
And it wont squirt pla
What it is/what it should be
Second try!
We are thinking that the motor of the axis is a problem, it also screams very loud if it moves. Which specs does the x axis motor have?
Yeah you didn't close the feeder properly. Common issue. Let me go look for some pictures...
This shows you how to close the feeder:
You have to squeeze quite hard before sliding down the piece that moves up and down into the feeder.
If the feeder is working properly you can fight the feeder with 3-5kg of force and the filament will not slip.
The nut (red arrow) needs to be where the green arrow points. But only after you push the black part inward (blue arrow).
2
Hey, its warping extremely in the X axis. It even hits the stopper. The PLA should be inserted correctly
So… we took a look at the stepper driver and we saw, that the X driver is a different one than Y and Z. I swapped X with Z and oh… It works. Though I think that Z will not function correctly with an Broken driver. Which one should I buy as an replacement? (Blue one in Image was the working and the Green one wasn’t)
Oh sorry! I missed this post. You should DM me after doing a post. Oh. You did.
Okay this is a complicated subject. These probably put out slightly different amounts of max current. There is a tiny thing you can turn but DON'T TOUCH THAT! Moving it 1/10th of one millimeter is often enough to destroy the whole driver.
I can see "A4988" in your photo. You can search ebay/amazon/etcetera for "pololu A4988" for a replacement.
HOWEVER, you probably just need to lubricate things. Assuming this printer is a bit old - put one drop of oil on each of the 6 rods in the gantry. You can use any kind of mineral oil (not food oil). Such as "3-in-one" oil or "sewing machine" oil. Even engine oil but that's a thick oil. Better to use a thin oil. "baby oil" should work as well I would think.
Push the head around when printer is not printing and feel the difference in X and Y resistance. You have to push pretty hard - maybe hard enough to slide the printer around on a table. But you can still do it with just 2 fingers pretty easily. One finger on each end of the thinner rods.
Anyway I'm hoping you just have some excess resistance that couldn't be overcome by the stepper drivers that you swapped. I'm assuming that one had slightly higher current and that axis had slightly higher friction.
Another option that might help is to lower the acceleration. In the motion control menu on the printer I think the acceleration is "5000" mm/s/s. You can lower that to 3000 mm/s/s and it will print a little slower but it is less likely to lose steps like in your photo. But ideally you should fix the printer and not work around it by lowering the acceleration. So try some oil.
Also often you get that slipping in one axis due to a loose set screw in the pulleys. But I'll trust your conclusion that the problem is related to friction or weak stepper driver.
Again, DON'T RUN THE PRINTER WITHOUT THE FAN COVER. There is one 3 pin part in particular that sticks up. That gets very hot and is usually the first component to self destruct.
a bit while ago, but here an update:
We changed the Stepper Driver and it works!
We had some issue with big blobs coming out and getting hard. The Printer runs over it and... Whoops it destroys itself.
We changed it by Levelling the Plate and making the Retraction higher.
THANKS
Thank you So much for Helping us out!
Just in case you need on-site support or spare parts at some point, igo3d.com (Ultimaker distributor and support partner for Germany) is also based in Hannover. They carry like every part of Ultimaker Printers and the support has been very nice the few times I contacted them. Probably you can get some education-discounts on materials or other benefits (they at least have some educational program on their website).
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gr5 2,268
Yes.
You want to use pronterface. Also known as printrun. It allows you to control every individual part through a USB cable.
So install pronterface on a PC or mac - preferably a laptop because you need to connect the PC to your printer through a usb cable (you can always pick up the whole printer and bring it to the computer).
Get pronterface here. It's free:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
It's not an install actually - just copy the files anywhere and double click on "pronterface". Then do "connect" and if that works you have HUGE control over your printer that you didn't before. Home the axis and then type in gcodes like this:
G1 X100
So some things are easily controlled by clicking a button. Other things you need to do gcodes. Here is a list of the gcodes. UMO and UMO+ has Marlin firmware. So when looking at these gcodes only pay attention to ones that are supported by Marlin:
https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
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