One could easily write a plugin that moves the bed down then up by any amount between each layer. The command you want is G1 or G0 (they do the same thing).
For example
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 moves the head to 0,0,0.
G0 Z15 moves the bed only to 15mm from nozzle without moving x or y.
Pretty simple stuff.
One could easily write a plugin that moves the bed down then up by any amount between each layer. The command you want is G1 or G0 (they do the same thing).
For example
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 moves the head to 0,0,0.
G0 Z15 moves the bed only to 15mm from nozzle without moving x or y.
Pretty simple stuff.
Yeah I understand it all and that's really made it clearer for me but I wonder can you help me a bit further since I'm not cutting a 4th bed for this printer again it gets expensive after a while and I'm sure if you could help I could cut you some replacement parts as such?
Your original post and post #4 seem to have nothing in common. You confuse me greatly.
In post #1 you seem to be asking for a feature that is non functional. It's just "cool". Kind of like adding color LEDs. It sounds like you want the bed to go down *and* up on every layer. Instead of just down. Just for fun.
Then in post #4 you talk about cutting beds? And something is expensive? And replacement parts? What?
Your original post and post #4 seem to have nothing in common. You confuse me greatly.
In post #1 you seem to be asking for a feature that is non functional. It's just "cool". Kind of like adding color LEDs. It sounds like you want the bed to go down *and* up on every layer. Instead of just down. Just for fun.
Then in post #4 you talk about cutting beds? And something is expensive? And replacement parts? What?
What I mean is I don't want to try and make the plugin because I have had to make several beds for the ultimaker by crashing the head into the bed and melting the bed so I wanted to know could you do it for me since I think I'll keep getting it wrong and have to make new beds and replacement parts if you get what I mean
You could set the z limit to give you extra room, remove the filament and remove the bed, so that you can play with the programming until you get it right without damaging your bed or wasting plastic.
You could also use a g-code simulator to check that your part will print correctly.
I fixed that problem with the head crashing it was a connector loose and I want it because i broke the fan that came with it and I won't get one for 2-3 weeks and the printer I am use to using dosent use cooling fans this is it's way of waiting for the layers to cool and it does a pretty good job of it but as much as I want I would like it I don't have £32000Why is the head crashing into the bed? Isn't your top z-limit switch working or have you not set it correctly?
I also don't understand why on earth you'd want this up and down motion, it will add a LOT of time to the print for absolutely no reason.
I fixed the limit switch can you recommend a good one?You could set the z limit to give you extra room, remove the filament and remove the bed, so that you can play with the programming until you get it right without damaging your bed or wasting plastic.You could also use a g-code simulator to check that your part will print correctly.
First you said the up and down movement didn't serve much purpose other than looking and sounding cool. Now you're saying that it's part of the actual cooling and that your printer is missing a fan. You're bouncing all over the place with the information here man...
Aaanyway, if you want to do this because of insufficient cooling you could enable "Cool head lift" and set a longer "Minimum layer time" to force the head to lift up and wait for the layer to cool down. Having the head lifted for a long period of time will cause it to ooze however and will give you a whole different problem to overcome.
Something to know though is that if the object you're printing isn't very small you might not even need a fan to cool the layers as they will have cooled down sufficiently on their own. Alternatively if the object is mall you can print multiples so that the layer of one object has time to cool down while the printer is over at another object.
Or how about just wrapping some insulation around the print head and pointing a desk fan at the print area while you wait for the replacement to show up?
good points but reason why I didn't say it was not the best thing to say I built something and it didn't work properly right ? And the fan ideas quite good I'm might give it a try.First you said the up and down movement didn't serve much purpose other than looking and sounding cool. Now you're saying that it's part of the actual cooling and that your printer is missing a fan. You're bouncing all over the place with the information here man...
Aaanyway, if you want to do this because of insufficient cooling you could enable "Cool head lift" and set a longer "Minimum layer time" to force the head to lift up and wait for the layer to cool down. Having the head lifted for a long period of time will cause it to ooze however and will give you a whole different problem to overcome.
Something to know though is that if the object you're printing isn't very small you might not even need a fan to cool the layers as they will have cooled down sufficiently on their own. Alternatively if the object is mall you can print multiples so that the layer of one object has time to cool down while the printer is over at another object.
Or how about just wrapping some insulation around the print head and pointing a desk fan at the print area while you wait for the replacement to show up?
good points but reason why I didn't say it was not the best thing to say I built something and it didn't work properly right ? And the fan ideas quite good I'm might give it a try.
Building a 3D printer is not an easy task, you shouldn't be ashamed not getting it right on the first try! (or second, or third...)
Always provide as much information as you can so other people can help you faster and better.
Anyway, you shouldn't rush things, always read the manual before and after doing some assembly and do the proper checks for every part of the machine before start printing for the first time. You should have tried to just make the extruder "home" before heating it up.
I was getting that feeling too. OP, declare yourself! :-)
(But seriously, six garbled posts, then silence. And, the googles show no other hits of that username.)
I hope I don't offend, but would the OP's replies read like they are written by a bot pretending to be a user. Though a very good bot.
lol! No - I really doubt a bot is that smart. Us moderators see really clever spam posts every day and this one didn't have a link in it - all spam posts have a link.
This is probably just someone who is doing this as a hobby and is busy right now and will get back to this list and his printer eventually.
I am not a bot but i understand what you mean about being forward the first time you make a post but your right at the moment i am really busy building a reprap and busy laser cutting ultimaker parts under the sales forum etc but i am busy and i have fixed the issue with the cooling and its printing great until we ran out of filament .. but thanks for all the help so far!
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
illuminarti 18
You can find a list of gcode commands that the firmware understands about halfway down this page:
https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin
Furthermore, Cura (and other slicers) allow you to specify custom start and end gcode for your prints, so you can add your own commands. Open up a gcode file in a text editor - or better yet, in Repetier Host's gcode view. And then step through the file referring to the gcodes in that list, and Repetier Host's built-in help text that explains the commands.
That should help you understand how gcode works, and how to write your own custom code - which is a very useful skill to have anyway to get the best out of your 3D printer.
Link to post
Share on other sites