Print with bronzefill fail 'material error' (SOLVED)

[Xhoax 4]

Im trying to print a statue, with bronzefill pla.

After 4-5 hours, of the print stops.

Material error.

The nozzle is not clogged, and the material is not blocked.

 

I thought the heat might be a problem, so I put a ventilator in front of the printer.

 

The infill was perfect, but then there is underextrusion. 

I removed the material, and it has a pointy end 

Is this normal? What does that mean?

 

What would be the problem here?

 

Material: bronzefill pla (colorfabb)

Nozzle: 0.4CC

Printer: UMS3 

Cura: 5.6

Edited August 31 by Xhoax

[Slashee_the_Cow 416]

According to colorFabb's page on bronzefill:

Quote

Depending on your set-up, 3d printer and slice software, you might see that bronzeFill needs a bit more flow compared to your normal PLA settings. Most plastics will show die swell when coming out of the nozzle tip, this is counteracted with specific slicer settings. Since bronzeFill doesn’t show a die swell such as PLA you might need to increase flow rate a bit, 4-8% was perfect for our UM2. UM original did not need any adjustments.

 So it's possible you have underextrusion, unless you already accounted for that 🙂

 

4 hours ago, Xhoax said:

The infill was perfect, but then there is underextrusion.

The infill actually looks worse than the rest of it to my eyes 👀

Infill lines should be as smooth as the rest of the print but that's the bumpiest infill I've seen in quite a while 😕

 

4 hours ago, Xhoax said:

I removed the material, and it has a pointy end 

Is this normal? What does that mean?

Probably not normal. Could have something to do with the metal inside the filament? Not sure. 🤔 Definitely cut off a bit below where filament goes back to normal before you try again.

 

What temperature were you printing at? colorFabb's page recommends 195-220, but with metal in it, I'd definitely be going towards the higher end of that - I'd start at 210° myself, and not be afraid to step up to 215 then 220 if I was still having problems.

 

Ultimately though it could just be a case of a printer not liking an exotic filament. Though I'd wait for @gr5 to have his say before you do anything because I don't know much about UM printers.

[gr5 2,224]

pointy end is fine.

 

Print looks great to me.

 

".4CC"??  You mean "CC 0.6"?  It matters.  make sure the line width is .6 if you are using a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 if you are using a 0.4 nozzle.

 

It could be that the filament sensor doesn't work well with this filament.  If you don't see much underextrusion then turn off the sensor.  I don't see much underextrusion but you might want to follow the advice of the manufacturer and set the flow to 105% (but no higher than 110% which can cause serious problems).  And also turn off the filament sensor.  It's in the menus on the printer itself.

[gr5 2,224]

Anyway, if you want it to look amazing, try sanding the print after it's done.  Try it on that "test" print or "failed" print to see how it looks sanded.

[Xhoax 4]

3 hours ago, gr5 said:

Anyway, if you want it to look amazing, try sanding the print after it's done.  Try it on that "test" print or "failed" print to see how it looks sanded.

We always sand and polish the statues.

We had a good profile, it worked fine, but now it fails..

 

 

[Xhoax 4]

3 hours ago, gr5 said:

pointy end is fine.

 

Print looks great to me.

 

".4CC"??  You mean "CC 0.6"?  It matters.  make sure the line width is .6 if you are using a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 if you are using a 0.4 nozzle.

 

It could be that the filament sensor doesn't work well with this filament.  If you don't see much underextrusion then turn off the sensor.  I don't see much underextrusion but you might want to follow the advice of the manufacturer and set the flow to 105% (but no higher than 110% which can cause serious problems).  And also turn off the filament sensor.  It's in the menus on the printer itself.

No I really mean the 0.4 nozzle, we printed over 30 statues without a problem...

It's very frustrating knowing it worked...

Flow is set atm at 104%,.I guess I can go higher.

 

But the first 2 hours of the print, the infill is fine, so how do you explain that?

[Xhoax 4]

3 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:

According to colorFabb's page on bronzefill:

 So it's possible you have underextrusion, unless you already accounted for that 🙂

 

The infill actually looks worse than the rest of it to my eyes 👀

Infill lines should be as smooth as the rest of the print but that's the bumpiest infill I've seen in quite a while 😕

 

Probably not normal. Could have something to do with the metal inside the filament? Not sure. 🤔 Definitely cut off a bit below where filament goes back to normal before you try again.

 

What temperature were you printing at? colorFabb's page recommends 195-220, but with metal in it, I'd definitely be going towards the higher end of that - I'd start at 210° myself, and not be afraid to step up to 215 then 220 if I was still having problems.

 

Ultimately though it could just be a case of a printer not liking an exotic filament. Though I'd wait for @gr5 to have his say before you do anything because I don't know much about UM printers.

The flow is 104%

 

Temperature now 210

 

But could it be the heat in the printer? I already placed a ventilator on the printer with the door open.

 

The wall is fine, but the infill is messed up. The first 2 hours of the print the infill is great.

[Slashee_the_Cow 416]

20 minutes ago, Xhoax said:

But could it be the heat in the printer? I already placed a ventilator on the printer with the door open.

Heat in the printer is a good thing! (within reason, of course).

Not so much with PLA (although I don't know if it changes at all when you stick metal in it), but some materials (like ABS) are prone to warping when different parts of the model are at different temperatures.

This is why some printers have heated enclosures, so they can keep the whole print at the same temperature for the whole time.

Pretty much everything contracts as it cools (it's physics), just to varying degrees. PLA is incredibly stable from a chemical perspective so it doesn't contract much (it's why you can print PLA on an unheated bed), but metal contracts and expands much more. If we refer back to colorFabb:

Quote

Most plastics will show die swell when coming out of the nozzle tip, this is counteracted with specific slicer settings. Since bronzeFill doesn’t show a die swell such as PLA

So we know that it reacts to temperature differently than regular PLA. There's a bit of temperature shock going from a 210° hot end into open (cooler) air. The greater the difference, the bigger the effect. AFAIK with a heated enclosure most of the time you keep it at about the same temperature as the print bed.

 

If you're not just not letting hot air remain near the printer, you're actively pulling cold air over it (and what's being printed) that's definitely going to have an effect on how the filament reacts when it comes out of the nozzle. It's possible that it might show up more on infill because infill is printed before walls (by default) so there's going to be a bit of a "shield" blocking air gusts going onto the walls, as well as any of the heat that might remain from that infill. It's also possible that because by default infill prints faster than everything else (the reasoning being that it doesn't have to look pretty; but it's ignoring the physics of how to get the best adhesion from the filament) it's a lot more prone to looking like crap.

 

Some people (such as myself) actually put their printer in a "tent", which will generally close with a zip up flap on the front, doing all it can to keep the hot air in (and keep any changes from outside outside). It's also great for if you're going to print ABS, because then you turn on the ventilator before you open the flap 😄 (the fumes from printing ABS are poisonous).

 

So to sum it all up... heat around printer is good. Actively pulling cold air over it is bad. Ditch the ventilator.

[gr5 2,224]

I'm not convinced slashee is correct.  But I really don't know.  Sometimes you need lots of cooling as well.

 

anyway the infill looks underextruded which means there is probably underextrusion in other places but it's not as obvious.  Is it printing the infill faster?  That is usually the case.  If you are on the edge of underextrusion then it will happen more if you cool the nozzle, or if you print too fast.

 

If this was printing fine for many prints and then it got worse without changing anything then you need to clean the nozzle with some cold pulls.  Don't use bronze fill to do that. Regular PLA is excellent for cold pulls or you can use Nylon if you have any.  You can do cold pulls from the menu on the printer.  I think under maintenance maybe?  But if you watch some videos on youtube about "cold pulls" (it doesn't matter the printer type - cold pull is the same for all printers) then you can get the best possible pull.  Try at least 3 perfect pulls where you can see the tip in perfect shape.

 

The PLA (or any plastic filament) slowly carbonizes on the inside of the nozzle and you get a black or brown coating that is thin.  This makes the nozzle diameter smaller.  Eventually your 0.4mm nozzle is a .35mm nozzle and it starts underextruding just a little bit.  Cold pulls can fix this.

 

You can also scrape the inside of the nozzle if you have something sharp - the best tool is a hypodermic needle.  Hard to get.  #28 gauge is ideal as the diameter is 0.36mm.  I used to buy them and cut off all but the tip and include them for free when I'd sell people nozzles and things years ago.  I can't get them anymore in the USA.  You can use sewing needles, acupuncture needles, wire, etc but the hypodermics were the best by far - very sharp on the outer edge (sewing needles are only sharp in the middle so you have to scrape 20X more times).

[Slashee_the_Cow 416]

2 hours ago, gr5 said:

I'm not convinced slashee is correct.  But I really don't know.  Sometimes you need lots of cooling as well.

When you need lots of cooling isn't that generally when you bolt an extra fan onto your print head to cool the filament as it comes out (and just moving air around inside the printer area, not replacing it with outside air), not cool the whole printer? When your filament is coming out of the nozzle at >200°, even blowing 60° air onto it is cooling it down.

 

2 hours ago, gr5 said:

I can't get them anymore in the USA.

Whenever I'm looking for something... most people don't commonly need I usually check fleaBay and then AliExpress... if you're willing to wait six weeks for something to be shipped from China the slowest way possible.

 

Or I'd just go down to my doctor and ask nicely where they get theirs from... and then hope they sell them to individuals with no medical qualifications who actually aren't going to use them for <insert illegal act here> and in quantities less than 10,000.

 

2 hours ago, gr5 said:

You can use sewing needles, acupuncture needles, wire, etc but the hypodermics were the best by far - very sharp on the outer edge (sewing needles are only sharp in the middle so you have to scrape 20X more times).

Try finding sewing machine needles designed for denim or other tough fabrics - they're generally very sharp and can have big points (relative to other sewing needles).

Tapestry needles are fairly blunt (so cut off the end) but fairly large (they're designed for embroidery with wool) and made of metal, so a cut end would probably be sharp.

Not sure how sharp a knitting needle that size would be if you cut off the tip (probably depends on what they're made of - even if all you're going to do is actually knit, metal is obviously better, but can be very hard to find).

My Dremel has an attachment for sharpening blades, I'm sure I could misappropriate that to cause some damage to something intended for sewing 🙂

(I sew. Don't act so shocked 😮)

[gr5 2,224]

Actually if you grind flat the tip of a needle that should help.  You want it sharp around the edges of the needle - not in the center.

[Torgeir 262]

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll see you still have the problem with (both?) of you UMS3 printers..

This is really strange, but we can agree that the printer stop printing due to sensing low or no feed of filament.

Further, this happen after about 3-4 hours of printing.

How does the filament look like at the "drive" (the knurled feeder wheel) place when the printer stopped?

The radiation from the printer housing can be quite high, so a fan on the back might be better in avoiding softening of the filament, due to high temperature radiation.

 

Another thing to note is using too high temperature on "filled" filament.

The infill might have different density, causing the thermoplastic and infill to separate if the nozzle temperature is set to high. This can lead to some fluctuating pressure due to particles partly build up and then released as pressure increase. Sure, this process go on, over and over..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

Edited July 20 by Torgeir
More info.

[Xhoax 4]

On 7/20/2024 at 6:22 PM, Torgeir said:

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll see you still have the problem with (both?) of you UMS3 printers..

This is really strange, but we can agree that the printer stop printing due to sensing low or no feed of filament.

Further, this happen after about 3-4 hours of printing.

How does the filament look like at the "drive" (the knurled feeder wheel) place when the printer stopped?

The radiation from the printer housing can be quite high, so a fan on the back might be better in avoiding softening of the filament, due to high temperature radiation.

 

Another thing to note is using too high temperature on "filled" filament.

The infill might have different density, causing the thermoplastic and infill to separate if the nozzle temperature is set to high. This can lead to some fluctuating pressure due to particles partly build up and then released as pressure increase. Sure, this process go on, over and over..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

Hi, 

 

thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

Yes on both printers.

The filament was flattend by the feeder, not grinded.

We notice that this problems comes when we increase the flow.

With normal flow, and filament out of the dryer, this problem is fixed.

 

but anyways, we are no making any production atm.

Same problem over and over. Sometimes after 3-4 hours, sometimes after 10 mins, 30 mins,...

 

We notice that when we increase the temp from 200 to 210, the errors comes quicker.

 

 

 

[Xhoax 4]

On 7/20/2024 at 7:43 AM, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Heat in the printer is a good thing! (within reason, of course).

Not so much with PLA (although I don't know if it changes at all when you stick metal in it), but some materials (like ABS) are prone to warping when different parts of the model are at different temperatures.

This is why some printers have heated enclosures, so they can keep the whole print at the same temperature for the whole time.

Pretty much everything contracts as it cools (it's physics), just to varying degrees. PLA is incredibly stable from a chemical perspective so it doesn't contract much (it's why you can print PLA on an unheated bed), but metal contracts and expands much more. If we refer back to colorFabb:

So we know that it reacts to temperature differently than regular PLA. There's a bit of temperature shock going from a 210° hot end into open (cooler) air. The greater the difference, the bigger the effect. AFAIK with a heated enclosure most of the time you keep it at about the same temperature as the print bed.

 

If you're not just not letting hot air remain near the printer, you're actively pulling cold air over it (and what's being printed) that's definitely going to have an effect on how the filament reacts when it comes out of the nozzle. It's possible that it might show up more on infill because infill is printed before walls (by default) so there's going to be a bit of a "shield" blocking air gusts going onto the walls, as well as any of the heat that might remain from that infill. It's also possible that because by default infill prints faster than everything else (the reasoning being that it doesn't have to look pretty; but it's ignoring the physics of how to get the best adhesion from the filament) it's a lot more prone to looking like crap.

 

Some people (such as myself) actually put their printer in a "tent", which will generally close with a zip up flap on the front, doing all it can to keep the hot air in (and keep any changes from outside outside). It's also great for if you're going to print ABS, because then you turn on the ventilator before you open the flap 😄 (the fumes from printing ABS are poisonous).

 

So to sum it all up... heat around printer is good. Actively pulling cold air over it is bad. Ditch the ventilator.

 

Hi slashee, 

thanks for the reply.

 

i followed your advice, no ventilater in the front of the printer, but i put it on the back.

Where the feeder and the filament is.

 

This was better, before, the filament was flatted by the feeder. Diameter of the filament was at this point 3.12mm.

So to big to fit through the bowden tube.

We notice that the bronzefill filament got soft. Normaly it breaks easier.

With the dryer, and the ventilator on the back, its fixed.

 

But the problem still remains.

On both printers, on both printer heads/feeders.

Different/ new cores installed.

 

it occours after few hours, few minutes, its weird

 

You got some more tips/ things we can try? 

We are running no production on the bronzefill atm, PLA works fine.

 

Is there a posibility that you might send me a profile you use for metallfill/bronzefill filament printing?

 

[Xhoax 4]

On 7/20/2024 at 1:43 PM, gr5 said:

I'm not convinced slashee is correct.  But I really don't know.  Sometimes you need lots of cooling as well.

 

anyway the infill looks underextruded which means there is probably underextrusion in other places but it's not as obvious.  Is it printing the infill faster?  That is usually the case.  If you are on the edge of underextrusion then it will happen more if you cool the nozzle, or if you print too fast.

 

If this was printing fine for many prints and then it got worse without changing anything then you need to clean the nozzle with some cold pulls.  Don't use bronze fill to do that. Regular PLA is excellent for cold pulls or you can use Nylon if you have any.  You can do cold pulls from the menu on the printer.  I think under maintenance maybe?  But if you watch some videos on youtube about "cold pulls" (it doesn't matter the printer type - cold pull is the same for all printers) then you can get the best possible pull.  Try at least 3 perfect pulls where you can see the tip in perfect shape.

 

The PLA (or any plastic filament) slowly carbonizes on the inside of the nozzle and you get a black or brown coating that is thin.  This makes the nozzle diameter smaller.  Eventually your 0.4mm nozzle is a .35mm nozzle and it starts underextruding just a little bit.  Cold pulls can fix this.

 

You can also scrape the inside of the nozzle if you have something sharp - the best tool is a hypodermic needle.  Hard to get.  #28 gauge is ideal as the diameter is 0.36mm.  I used to buy them and cut off all but the tip and include them for free when I'd sell people nozzles and things years ago.  I can't get them anymore in the USA.  You can use sewing needles, acupuncture needles, wire, etc but the hypodermics were the best by far - very sharp on the outer edge (sewing needles are only sharp in the middle so you have to scrape 20X more times).

hi Gr5,

 

thanks for the reply.

 

we test this on different printers (2), and different heads (4).

With cleaned cores 0.4 Both AA and CC, new cores 0.4,...

 

The material error keeps popping up.

it occours after few hours, few minutes, its weird

 

You got some more tips/ things we can try? 

We are running no production on the bronzefill atm, PLA works fine.

 

Is there a posibility that you might send me a profile you use for metallfill/bronzefill filament printing?

 

thanks

[Slashee_the_Cow 416]

I think you should probably try contacting the manufacturer - they're going to know a lot more about their filament than we do 🙂 and might have some advice.

[gr5 2,224]

Did you try disabling the filament sensor?  I did that for my S5 and I've been printing for years that way.  It's in the menu system on the printer.

 

I've only printed bronzefill one or two times.  It's just difficult to work with and 99.9% of my prints are mechanical prints.  I'm not much of an artist.

[LePaul 331]

Just a thought...if the same material is doing this on multiple machines, has the filament been placed in a filament dryer to dry out?  I find some very random issues (flow, stringing, etc) can be solved if the filament is dried for a few hours then reloaded.

 

[Torgeir 262]

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll see you still fight the "environmental" surrounding temperature in order to have a good print using PLA/PHA Copper filled filament. This ColorFabb filament Bronzefill was introduced in 2019. The printers used during testing of this filament was; "The old series of" Ultimaker Original, UM2 and Makerbot Replicator 2. 

As we all know, all of this three printers are now included in the same company.

The latter is a "direct drive 1.75mm" filament printer and this printer gave the best test result!

 

I'll suppose you've seen this write up at ColorFabb web site;

https://colorfabb.us/howto-print-with-bronzefill

 

All the important data is found in the above link, as:

 

     3D                 Layer      Speed      Temperature     Temperature    Retraction      Retraction

 Printer            Height    Printing         Nozzle             Build Plate       Distance            Speed

                            mm      mm/sec          Deg.C                 Deg.C                mm                mm/sec

Ultimaker

Original          0.2mm        50                 215                     N/A                   4.5                      45

 

Ultimaker

    UM2            0.2mm        50                 220                   55/60                 4.5                       25

 

Markerbot                                                                                                (standard          (standard

Replicator      0.2mm        70                 200                     N/A             makerware)      makerware)

2       

 

 

According to ColorFabb, you can print without using the heating on the heat bed -and also advising using Blue tape.

This will lower the internal heat radiation to the extruder and aft part of the printer.

I'll assume using a fan on the filament at the back of the printer.

 

Use the settings that were used before the summer season, but without heating the heated bed.

This might help you through the very hot summer seasons.

 

For others, here's a link to ColorFabb about "how to", 3D printing knowledge base.

https://colorfabb.us/3d-printing-knowledge-base

 

Edit: If you look into the first link to ColorFabb, there is an "ask question" button, they answer..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

Edited August 3 by Torgeir

[Xhoax 4]

On 8/2/2024 at 7:49 PM, LePaul said:

Just a thought...if the same material is doing this on multiple machines, has the filament been placed in a filament dryer to dry out?  I find some very random issues (flow, stringing, etc) can be solved if the filament is dried for a few hours then reloaded.

 

Thanks for the reply 

 

We notices that the filemant did not 'crack' as fast as it used to. It bended more before it broke.

So we put the roll in a filament dryer, the humidity was to high.

 

From now on we put each bronzefill roll in the dryer before usage.

[Xhoax 4]

On 8/2/2024 at 3:37 PM, gr5 said:

Did you try disabling the filament sensor?  I did that for my S5 and I've been printing for years that way.  It's in the menu system on the printer.

 

I've only printed bronzefill one or two times.  It's just difficult to work with and 99.9% of my prints are mechanical prints.  I'm not much of an artist.

Thanks for the reply.

 

No the sensor is still on.

Because the error is a thing, but the quality is not good. 

So om glad that it stops, because it's wasting material.

 

Even so bad, that it just keeps printing in the air. The printer 'stops' extruding material.

 

[Xhoax 4]

On 8/3/2024 at 10:26 PM, Torgeir said:

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll see you still fight the "environmental" surrounding temperature in order to have a good print using PLA/PHA Copper filled filament. This ColorFabb filament Bronzefill was introduced in 2019. The printers used during testing of this filament was; "The old series of" Ultimaker Original, UM2 and Makerbot Replicator 2. 

As we all know, all of this three printers are now included in the same company.

The latter is a "direct drive 1.75mm" filament printer and this printer gave the best test result!

 

I'll suppose you've seen this write up at ColorFabb web site;

https://colorfabb.us/howto-print-with-bronzefill

 

All the important data is found in the above link, as:

 

     3D                 Layer      Speed      Temperature     Temperature    Retraction      Retraction

 Printer            Height    Printing         Nozzle             Build Plate       Distance            Speed

                            mm      mm/sec          Deg.C                 Deg.C                mm                mm/sec

Ultimaker

Original          0.2mm        50                 215                     N/A                   4.5                      45

 

Ultimaker

    UM2            0.2mm        50                 220                   55/60                 4.5                       25

 

Markerbot                                                                                                (standard          (standard

Replicator      0.2mm        70                 200                     N/A             makerware)      makerware)

2       

 

 

According to ColorFabb, you can print without using the heating on the heat bed -and also advising using Blue tape.

This will lower the internal heat radiation to the extruder and aft part of the printer.

I'll assume using a fan on the filament at the back of the printer.

 

Use the settings that were used before the summer season, but without heating the heated bed.

This might help you through the very hot summer seasons.

 

For others, here's a link to ColorFabb about "how to", 3D printing knowledge base.

https://colorfabb.us/3d-printing-knowledge-base

 

Edit: If you look into the first link to ColorFabb, there is an "ask question" button, they answer..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

Thanks for the reply.

 

I think it's an environmental issue.

 

Atm we are printing good statues again.

I put a fan on the back, that targets the feeder, the filament and the back of the printer.

 

Changed the nozzle from 0.4 to 0.6cc. with the same settings (ofcourse changed for the 0.6 rest remains)

 

Filament in dryer before usage.

 

We are printing on 200°C

When i increase the temp to 210°C the result is worse.

 Isn't this weird? Because the higher the temp, the better the flow?

 

 

 

[LePaul 331]

Yes, I dry all materials before use.  Whether its from inside a vacuum sealed bag or something that's been sealed/stored for a while.  It just rules out so many problems.

 

It isn't a huge task and a good addition to whatever printing workflow you have.

 

[Torgeir 262]

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll think using a CC 0.6mm is a good idea for this high density filled filament, -if the resolution required are fulfilled..

 

No, it is not surprising that this happens when the temperature is increased.

As the temperature increases, the density of the "thermoplastic" used will become thinner (lower density) and the small filler particles are too heavy for the diluted liquid thermoplastic. This leads to uneven nozzle flow and intermittent over/ under extrusion. So, in order to have a smoother dense flow that can "carry" the infill without degrading the homogeneity of the original mixture, we need to reduce the temperature to avoid this problem.
We need to optimize the balance between temperature and feed speed/print speed.
The fact that this copper filled filament is between 3 to 4 times heavier than the equivalent unfilled thermoplastic makes this filament more challenging to use.

 

There are some tools to fine tune temperature speed (plus more) for a given filament, avoiding stringing etc., maybe this is something to try out with this filament?

This "Plugin" are named "Auto Towers Generator" and can be found in "the Marked Place".
I haven't tried this plugin on the new version of Cura "Arachne", starting in version 5.0.0 of Cura. PS. latest version of Cura are 5.8.0    If you want to test this, you may try it out with PLA first..

 

Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir

 

 

[Xhoax 4]

On 8/5/2024 at 11:45 PM, Torgeir said:

Hi @Xhoax,

 

I'll think using a CC 0.6mm is a good idea for this high density filled filament, -if the resolution required are fulfilled..

 

No, it is not surprising that this happens when the temperature is increased.

As the temperature increases, the density of the "thermoplastic" used will become thinner (lower density) and the small filler particles are too heavy for the diluted liquid thermoplastic. This leads to uneven nozzle flow and intermittent over/ under extrusion. So, in order to have a smoother dense flow that can "carry" the infill without degrading the homogeneity of the original mixture, we need to reduce the temperature to avoid this problem.
We need to optimize the balance between temperature and feed speed/print speed.
The fact that this copper filled filament is between 3 to 4 times heavier than the equivalent unfilled thermoplastic makes this filament more challenging to use.

 

There are some tools to fine tune temperature speed (plus more) for a given filament, avoiding stringing etc., maybe this is something to try out with this filament?

This "Plugin" are named "Auto Towers Generator" and can be found in "the Marked Place".
I haven't tried this plugin on the new version of Cura "Arachne", starting in version 5.0.0 of Cura. PS. latest version of Cura are 5.8.0    If you want to test this, you may try it out with PLA first..

 

Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir

 

 

With the 0.6 we are printing and the error doesn't occur. But there is some underextrusion. See photo below.

 

UMS3(photo)

We did the test printing at 195° and flow 100%

Wall speed 30

Infill speed 45

Retraction distance 4.5 and speed 30 

 

The Tower thing wint help because the underextrusion is only after few hours. We alsof notice that the infill the lines from left onder to upper right are good.

And from right under to upper left are bad.

How?? 

 

I don't think this is better, what can we try to improve this?