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fablab-regensburg

UM2 ABS warping

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Usually I print only PLA, but with the filament issues in the past I tried also ABS.

I use standard ABS settings.

Two different white filaments (one Ultimaker original)

Cleaned the glass plate and used different types of glue sticks and kapton tape.

Raft and Brim. Bigger and smaller prints.

But always warp and no adhension.

Any other suggestions or tipps?

 

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After reading 3D printing forums and so on I have seem to think that Makerbot is supposedly better at printing ABS. Why would this be? I can't see much difference in the printers technology. Is it just because some of the "bots" have a chamber where the heat stays in?

 

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I suspect MB is no better. I really don't know much about MB other than what I hear from other owners who have MB and hate it. But it's possible that MB still uses "raft". In the old days everyone used Raft I think because that was a way to keep warping from happening. But even though it is trickier, simply getting the part to stick is far superior to the raft setting because raft makes the bottom of your part very ugly.

 

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So if you want to go for the raft experience (no more lifting corners) by all means try it - it's there in Cura. But you will have ugly bottoms of parts. It's a tradeoff.

 

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UM2

Firstly do not enable cooling fans! Unless well away from the area that is likely to lift.

Use 85-90C hot bed do not cool at any print level

I had long piece (just fits diagonally) with fans the end lifted and even material delaminated. With no cooling fans managed to print ok.

The piece had reasonable contact area so no point with raft

skirt is one thin layer and no way will hold down material once it starts to cool (see bed levelling below).

If you print a long tall item then put a 2 to 3 layer lily pad at the ends - needed this to print a star the points (little surface contact area) always lifted - lily pads of 3 layers (0.08mm) of 20mm dia. at each point worked and were easily removed.

Use water to make smooth watery paste of remaining glue on bed spread as evenly as possible just before "print" selected. As plate warms this will dry, then add a single layer of staples glue stick (Pritt is not as good) this needs to be even and seems best applied quickly and evenly with the plate above 70°C, patching missed areas just piles up the glue and so is best avoid.

need an option in skirt to select more layers.

Levelling the bed.

There seems no feedback/reference for the z-stepper. Kept getting differing initial thickness at each print (from head on plate with little or no extrusion to thickness that just does not stick.

so new method is to level as normal but then when printing begins with brim or skirt adjust the 3 screws to get even thin (just about transparent thickness) need plenty of lines in the skirt to ensure level but seems to work

Now if I could only stop the base plate ringing like a bell producing undulating extrusion thickness that would be good! Really do need 3 coupled worm drives!

Mike

 

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UM2

Levelling the bed.

There seems no feedback/reference for the z-stepper. Kept getting differing initial thickness at each print (from head on plate with little or no extrusion to thickness that just does not stick.

so new method is to level as normal but then when printing begins with brim or skirt adjust the 3 screws to get even thin (just about transparent thickness) need plenty of lines in the skirt to ensure level but seems to work

 

This is fixed in the latest firmware. ( I prefer the firmware with some fixes by illuminarty: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5935-z-axis-homing-inconsistent-on-um2-workaround-and-patch/page-6#entry57095 )

I have had the same problem, but since the fix I get a really good reproducable start. After leveling I measure the skirt and fine tune the leveling as you describe. The leveling is stable for many prints now. I'm very happy with the new firmware.

 

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