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gary_auto

Hot Bed UM1

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I have uploaded marlin firmware to support a heated bed , solderd the 4.7k in place. I use my ulti controller to heat the bed but the red led on the board will not light/flash witch means I can turn on/off my relay to control my heated bed :(

Any help?

 

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Do I understand correctly that the relay does not turn on/off? You connected the relay on the heathbed output? Please note that the mosfet driving the relay is driving it to ground. Post your wiring.

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I have uploaded marlin firmware to support a heated bed

 

1) Firmware: Where did you get this firmware? I hope not from Cura. The HB firmware that comes with Cura is for a surprise version of HB that isn't for sale yet. Instead get it from here:

http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

 

2) Does the temp sensor work? Is it reading room temperature (roughly 20C)? If not then fix that first!

 

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Yes at 1st it was cura :( abit of searching I found out it was bad idea, but since used the link you put and uploaded the correct firmware.

The temp sensor doesn't read and room temperature. is this my problem???

 

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On the robotfuzz website did you specify the temperature sensor type (something like this) 100K thermisotor Usually this one (4k7 pullup)) for the heatedbed?

Can you measure the resistance between the 2 wires that connect to the UM board for the heatedbed?

 

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What Zoev said. What did you choose for this drop down in the marlin builder?

"Heated bed temperature sensor:"

And what kind of temperature sensor did you buy? And how did you hook it up?

 

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Sorry for the late reply got married the weekend :D

But to answer some questions I tried a few from the dropdown list as I wasn't sure what temperature sensor I have. it was pre soldered on the board when I got it. its like a smd type and ment to be 100k. but any of the ones I tried from the list didn't make no difference.

the resistance if I done it correctly is 582. also depending witch way I check the resistance one way makes the red led light up but no resistance.

 

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code#Resistor_color-coding

Silver? Oh. Yeah. It really is silver. That's a 4.70 ohm resistor. You want 4.7K - off by 1000. Sorry man. Do you have any junky electronics? That's where I get all my resistors - I remove them from something I "threw out".

You want either yellow/purple/red (then one more color) or yellow/purple/black/brown (then one more color). The second type is a more accurate resistor (3 digits: 470) the first is a little less accurate but works fine (2 digits: 47).

The LED should not be wired into the temperature sensor circuit. Are you sure you didn't just trigger the machine to turn on the heater when you were missing around?

I would go to reprap.org and get a thermistor that they recommend only. Or shop on google/ebay for "reprap 100k thermistor". There are hundreds of different temperature curves for different manufacturers of "100k thermistors". Thank goodness there is only ONE temperature curve for the PT100 (different technology - only works on UM2, not UM Original).

 

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Sorry for the late reply got married the weekend

 

Hey, congrats (only the married people say congratualations, lol!).

And congrats to, um, your weekend? also.

I should do that - marry my weekend - I guess that means retire. It sounds very inviting.

 

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code#Resistor_color-coding

Silver? Oh. Yeah. It really is silver. That's a 4.70 ohm resistor. You want 4.7K - off by 1000. Sorry man. Do you have any junky electronics? That's where I get all my resistors - I remove them from something I "threw out".

You want either yellow/purple/red (then one more color) or yellow/purple/black/brown (then one more color). The second type is a more accurate resistor (3 digits: 470) the first is a little less accurate but works fine (2 digits: 47).

The LED should not be wired into the temperature sensor circuit. Are you sure you didn't just trigger the machine to turn on the heater when you were missing around?

I would go to reprap.org and get a thermistor that they recommend only. Or shop on google/ebay for "reprap 100k thermistor". There are hundreds of different temperature curves for different manufacturers of "100k thermistors". Thank goodness there is only ONE temperature curve for the PT100 (different technology - only works on UM2, not UM Original).

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-47k-ohm-resistor-m4k7

is this the correct one? Your so helpfull i think they gave me wroung one when i went. I will get more pics it seems i can post from my phone but not my laptop

I think i grounded it out witch made the led light.

I will buy a proper thermistor just wanted to make sure it all working

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Hey, congrats (only the married people say congratualations, lol!).

 

And congrats to, um, your weekend? also.

 

I should do that - marry my weekend - I guess that means retire. It sounds very inviting.

 

HaHa thank you!! was a great day!! thanks for all the help on this forum you give me

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Changed the resistor to the correct one all works :D Thank you lots

Its off by 5c witch I can live with haha I even get to keep the transistor that came on the heated bed!!

I do have a few more questions.

My bed is aluminium do I use print direct onto that or use kapton tape?

What temp should I heat my bed up to when using pla??

 

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To answer your other questions, another manufacturer of these (this one looks almost as if they rebranded his) recommends printing on Kapton to help protect the bed surface from damage should the nozzle jam into it. As for PLA, I think the general recommendation is 60C. I find 70C better but I print on borosilicate glass (recommend you get some). Start with 60 and go higher if the part doesn't stick or lower if it sticks but you notice the edges near the bed bow in.

 

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It's beautiful! Yes, use kapton tape. It's very cheap on the internet.

The most important reason is that aluminum is easy to scratch and even the tiniest scratches will be visible on the bottom of all your prints. So kapton tape will protect the aluminum and can be replaced.

Are you printing mainly PLA or ABS?

For PLA initially try around 60C and make sure you use the "brim" feature in Cura. Also make sure the bottom layer is squished into the tape a bit.

Glass is MUCH easier to work with than kapton tape. You can buy a custom cut sheet of glass for less than the kapton tape from any company that sells glass (they are in every town as windows break every day). They will cut it to any size and even round the edges so it isn't sharp. Get it thick. Get two (they are cheap!) and hold the glass to the aluminum with binder clips (big paper clips).

Then you can use glue stick or pva glue - much easier to deal with than kapton tape. Mix elmer's wood glue with 5 parts water (is not exact - 20 parts or 3 parts water works fine also) and paint on the glass with paint brush and it dries to invisble coat (dries fast if bed is at 60C!).

 

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To answer your other questions, another manufacturer of these (this one looks almost as if they rebranded his) recommends printing on Kapton to help protect the bed surface from damage should the nozzle jam into it. As for PLA, I think the general recommendation is 60C. I find 70C better but I print on borosilicate glass (recommend you get some). Start with 60 and go higher if the part doesn't stick or lower if it sticks but you notice the edges near the bed bow in.

 

Thanks. Whats the other manufacturer? I looked all over to try get info on this.

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It's beautiful! Yes, use kapton tape. It's very cheap on the internet.

 

The most important reason is that aluminum is easy to scratch and even the tiniest scratches will be visible on the bottom of all your prints. So kapton tape will protect the aluminum and can be replaced.

 

Are you printing mainly PLA or ABS?

 

For PLA initially try around 60C and make sure you use the "brim" feature in Cura. Also make sure the bottom layer is squished into the tape a bit.

 

Glass is MUCH easier to work with than kapton tape. You can buy a custom cut sheet of glass for less than the kapton tape from any company that sells glass (they are in every town as windows break every day). They will cut it to any size and even round the edges so it isn't sharp. Get it thick. Get two (they are cheap!) and hold the glass to the aluminum with binder clips (big paper clips).

 

Then you can use glue stick or pva glue - much easier to deal with than kapton tape. Mix elmer's wood glue with 5 parts water (is not exact - 20 parts or 3 parts water works fine also) and paint on the glass with paint brush and it dries to invisble coat (dries fast if bed is at 60C!).

 

Mainly pla but once i learned pla would like to move onto abs :)

I will look into glass. Cant wait to try my 1st print on a heated bed tho. Thanks again

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