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ABS for Ultimaker ?

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Can anyone tell me about ABS filament thats working in ultimaker?

I have a hard time to make it work..sometimes it is working, sometimes not.

Material get stuck in hot end or feeder dont feed enough or filament too soft, hard to tell what .

Maby a combination

Suggestions please

/M

 

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Maybe your temp sensor is off by 30C. Heat nozzle to 110C - keep temp there for one minute. Then put your finger in water and touch one drop to nozzle tip. It should be very quiet but if you look closely you should see lots of fast moving boiling bubbles. If not your temp sensor might be defective.

 

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We have several customers with over 1000 hours per UM2 only printing production parts in ABS so it definitely works. Do you have high quality ABS? Should be 2.85mm nominally and never above 3mm. Also different ABS brands can vary up to 20 degrees in temps.

Also check our troubleshooting and material guides on support.3dverkstan.se which might help if you have a general problem. Also a glass filled PTFE coupler helps when printing higher temps as is the case with ABS. Check it by trying to make a mark with a normal carbon pencil on the white coupler. If it leaves a mark it is glass filled.

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Your PTFE coupler might be deformed if it is the old non-glassfilled version and you printed for high temps lots of hours. Order a new Ultimaker 2 PTFE coupler as spare part or request a new if it's within warranty. It usually helps in case you have eliminated other factors, performed Atomic Method etc.

I think that should do the trick!

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Strange. My UM2 has always been extremely reliable with ABS but not very reliable with PLA.

A few things that I have sorted out so far:

- Upgrade to 14.07 firmware.

The the new priming cycle eliminate grinding issues at startup and the leveling fixes makes regular leveling unnecessary.

This upgrade probably reduced the number of aborted prints from 30% to 5% for me.

The improved priming also made it possible to reliably print slightly large diameter filament, like Velleman ABS, which are close to 3mm.

Before 14.07 the grinding when priming caused enough damage to the filament to get it struck in the bowden.

You still have to be careful though not to get plastic particles into the bowden when using 3.0 mm filament. Even a tiny particle can cause problems.

- Check that the feeder motor is properly seated on the frame of the printer.

In my case it was sitting on a nut that holds the chassis panels together. This moved the knurled wheel away from the spring loaded bearing, thereby decreasing the pressure on the filament and increasing the risk of grinding.

Check this video, it shows how far the bearing should be pushed in when inserting a filament:

- Make sure the teflon spacer is properly seated.

I had issues with the diameter of the spacer being slightly large, which meant the spring could not push it all the way towards the nozzle.

If this happens when you print ABS, you end up with half-molten ABS between the spacer and the nozzle. This increases friction dramatically. Here is a picture:

ultimaker 2 nozzle teflon space

 

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Took head apart this morning without finding any oddities. .Spacer was well seated towards the nozzle with no gap.

Installed latest firmware.

Another issue is bad bonding between layers.

Doing another try now.

Nozzle temperature,now att 260C,looks stable when machine is running.

 

Feed motor is reversing with fast reverse and slow forward. Not retraction with fast revers and fast forward.

 

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Last print failed

 

There are 100 ways a print can fail. Please post a picture.

 

Feed motor is reversing with fast reverse and slow forward

 

This is usally referred to as a "skipping feeder" or "feeder skipping backwards". It happens when the force produced by the stepper motor is not enough and the spring tension is so high on the filament that it moves backwards quite a bit until pressure is relieved. The feeder can force roughly 5kg or roughly 10 pounds of force which results in about 100psi in the print head (if no friction in bowden or just before melt zone).

These are very strong forces.

For PLA if it is skipping you usually need to print slower or hotter. But 260C is quite hot for ABS and can cause clogs. I recommend only printing at 245. Here are my best guesses:

1) Partially clogged nozzle with burnt ABS in the nozzle on the inside. You can fix by removing the nozzle and soaking in acetone. This is the least likely problem but it could be caused by the high temps (260C).

2) Printing too fast. this is most likely. The thicker the layer height the more pressure is needed to get the plastic through the tiny hole. Try printing at 1/4 the speed you were printing before. What speed and layer height were you printing at?

3) Temperature sensor is broken and reports 260C but is actually at 200C meaning you need to go hotter. This is unlikely. You can test your nozzle temp several ways.

4) Many other things can cause friction in the path - the filament might be too big for the bowden or tiny pieces of dust can jam the filament in the bowden. Or the white isolator part can deform and it might be difficult to pass filament through. Your filament spool can get tangled or be coming into the feeder at too steep of an angle.

For now assume #2 above. Again, what layer height and speed?

 

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I received a new replacement machine from 3D verkstan yesterday, excellent service !!

Loaded it with ABS and started to print. Really good flow trough nozzle before printing.

Not that good flow 8hours later before second print.

String length was aprox half

Problem or not, it just a observation for now

 

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I guess everyone's experience is anecdotal, as is mine. I can confirm what others have said with some varied equipment. I am having good success printing structural (solid) objects on my UMO at 246C nozzle and 100C bed. My bed, nozzle and extruder are all non-standard replacements. On the bed I print on glass with hair spray, the nozzle is .8mm. I am going to experiment on bringing the bed temp down some more until I reach failure. My temps are verified with a laser thermometer.

Oh, the ABS I use is Ultimachine natural color.

Matt

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I recommend 245C for nozzle.  No fan.  100C for heated bed if you have one.  UM Original or UM2?

 

I have the Same Problem with the Abs. In i juse the 245c, no Fan and 100c Platte temp. I have Pillowing on the Surface. I Need help.

Cheers Gerhard

Edited by Guest

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With the abs original settings the noozel touched the print on edge, you see it on the right side of the print. 5a330e5ea89be_noozeltouching1.thumb.JPG.e0fc8e49f61f4ddf15cd44f0f937a8d5.JPG

when i use the 245, 110 and no fan stting, i have pillowing on the sureface.pillowing.thumb.JPG.d030e88b8d237c2fa9c294c8813810b7.JPG

cheers gerhard

5a330e5ea89be_noozeltouching1.thumb.JPG.e0fc8e49f61f4ddf15cd44f0f937a8d5.JPG

pillowing.thumb.JPG.d030e88b8d237c2fa9c294c8813810b7.JPG

Edited by Guest

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