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izo2

UM2 can't print abs

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hello,

i never succeed to print abs,

i use original setup stored in the um2, but i always have shrink,

i try many type

of glue and it will always pop out the build plate. small or big objects, whatever, i can't do a simple box...

any idea ?

thanks for your help

 

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hi thks for replying,

it this kinf of issue

http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/6/0/6067_1_3d_printing_tips_and_tricks_how_to_make_abs_juice_to_help_your_3d_prints_better_stick.jpg

even when i use brim,

i didn't try raft, i'll give a try asap

my setting is 0.1 layer, 50 mm/s infill, 30 mm/s for the border.

after everything is um 2 default setting for abs

90° temp bed, 260° for the extruder.

50% airflow

 

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update :

raft curl also...

i try now brim but i rise the build plate so the first layer is pressed well on the plate.

update 2 :

still curl

even the print is quite hard to remove from the build plate.

update 3:

i read extra strong cheap lac can be better, i try it, it curl.

now i put a bag over my printer to keep a hot ans stable temerature inside

update 4 :

i end up to remove the bag because it was too hot, and i afraid for the motor.

i finally put a lot of glue, and deactivate the fan, it's looks working.

i have a tiny curl of 0.2 mm on a corner.

i can maybe improve it to higher the build plate temp

 

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I am almost exclusively printing ABS and here is what I recommend:

- Fans has to be off . The only time I use fans for ABS is when I manually switch them on when printing tiny details in the end of the print.

- The provided glue was not really good for anything in my opinion. I am using "Tesa Easy Stick"-glue now and it works really good for ABS (and almost too good with PLA)

- The glue has to be applied when the buildplate is cold and the layer of glue should be rather thin.

- Z-calibration (leveling of buildplate) has to be done so that the first layer really gets 100% infill. I prefer leveling a bit close to make sure there is enough plastic extruded to properly stick to the platform.

- When printing large objects, I cover the front of the printer to reduce temperature gradients.

Apart from that I use stock settings. I don't use brim or raft anymore (fans off and Tesa-glue made brim/raft unnecessary).

By the way, make sure your UM2 has the latest firmware.There were several Z-calibration bugs sorted out this summer which used to make leveling unreliable/difficult.

 

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90C bed temperature is by far too low for ABS to keep sticking on the bed. Start with 110C. You can eventually increase to 115C or even more. This will depend on the accuracy of temperature measurement, the gradient of the temperature on the surface of the bed and the air flow around.

Use a brim of at least 3-4 mm. You should increase it pretty much (8-10 mm) if your part has acute angles or tall vertical edges. In general, the larger the part, the wider the brim. However, it is important that the brim sticks well by itself and no air bubbles are trapped underside. For this level your bed so that is not too high, but not too low either.

Try to avoid any air flow and use the cooling fans only if your part has serious overhangs in your part.

Glass is not very friendly in helping you with ABS. If you find that none of the above helps you, cover the glass with Kapton tape. This will help a lot and will allow to use the fan even after a few layers. Still keep the bed heated at 110C.

 

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hi,

i print large print in abs since yerstaday without issue, even with bed temps at 90°.

thanks to 3dlac, i saturate my glass plate to create a thin layer of glue,

print don't move anymore, when the glass gone under 40°, i can take my print like it was never stich.

when the glass is hot, it is barely impossible to remove by hand or with a tool.

i also level my build plate to have a strong flat first layer

also additional, i switch off my fan, that keep the brim stich to the end.

if i find a print curl now, i'll try to rise the build plate temperature.

right now i'm enjoying abs, awesome bridging and overhang handling. :)

 

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