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lbeentjes

Clogging Colorfab filament.

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Ive been using Colorfab for about a week now and i can say im not really happy with it. Im getting a lot of clogged nozzles, so i can barely print stuff.

When i do unclog it it's just a matter of time before it gets stuck again. I have printed some stuff with it and it looks fine but its starting to get annoying.

I use Blueish white.

Settings i use are:

0,1/0.15/0.2

Shell 0.8/0.6

bottom/top thickness 0.6/0.8

fill 15%

mm/s 40/50

Temp 220/230

bed 50

I pretty much tryed every setting. With the same result of clogging.

Anyone have used this filament with success?

 

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I use Colorfabb filaments mainly and i don't have problems with it. Never tried the blueish white tough.

There's something odd with white filaments they seem to cause a lot of headaches...

Are you sure your nozzle is clean? Did you try another color to see if you still have the problem?

 

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I have the same problem with the Blueish White, while other ColorFabb colours are printing nicely

Here is my favourite example, where I reduce temperature by 5°C every cm:

White and Blue...

All my filaments are doing fine down to 195°C, except the blueish white which will clog at 220/215°C...

 

It works OK when printed hotter, but then generates more stringing.

 

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Hi, Colorfabb used to be my filament of choice. But now I no longer buy it as I have found it to be very poor in terms of consistency of filament width. It used to be spot on 2.85 but now it seems to be all over the place. Interestingly, but maybe not surprisingly, it seemed to coincide with the relocation of their factory.

 

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... I should add that I too started to suffer from blockages which is why I carefully measured a significant length of the filament. Colourfabb kindly and very quickly sent me a replacement spool but I had the same problem. It was Dutch orange, a filament I had used a lot. Maybe I was just unlucky but life is too short....

 

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Similar problems here. Really frustrating as managed to get a sample at a 3D print show earlier in the year of the XT stuff. Was very impressed, however I recently bought a couple of reels of the XT and two standard PLA

The XT just clogs and will not give a reliable print, last night I ended up having to strip down the nozzle completely to get things working.

The standard Red gives varying results like the image below, yes it is red afraid the light in the workshop makes it look orange on the photo, at first I thought it was the filament sticking on the spool but then took a section off and let it run free. I have also tried varying the temp but can't get consistent results.

red color fab

 

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Ok need to be careful here as various (standard PLA, PLA/PHA) filaments will have different optimum print temps and I have not used the blue white. You are quoting a range of 0.1/40 to 0.2/50. For most filaments at .1/40 you should not really need to go above 205 and .2/50 above 215. Today I have been using a Faberdashery filament at .3/60 at 215 and .1/30 at 205 (99.9% certain 200 would have been fine). If you are saying that with your settings nothing will extrude if you go below 220 then I suspect you have a problem somewhere, probably filament partially blocking the path and using 220/230 is hiding a problem that you would e benefit from fixing.

Of course it might just be the white blue. Do you have other filaments that you can run perfectly at other temps?

 

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Of course it might just be the white blue. Do you have other filaments that you can run perfectly at other temps?

 

Ive used multiple filament with same results.

On a side note, Ive had this problem since i installed the heated bed upgrade. So i updated the printer firmware.

Can that cause this maybe?

 

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Ive used multiple filament with same results.

 

Then the filament is probably not the culprit here...

 

On a side note, Ive had this problem since i installed the heated bed upgrade. So i updated the printer firmware.

Can that cause this maybe?

 

I do not think so. The only difference between the UMO and UMO+ firmware is the Z stage resolution...

Did you looked at your Teflon spacer?

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Ok can you please clarify – which of these statements is/are correct.

 


  1. If I start a print with a temp. below 220 nothing is extruded.
     

  2. If I start a print below 220 I get extrusion but then it stops during the print
     

  3. If I start a print with 220 or greater I can complete a print
     

  4. If I start a print with 220 or greater after several prints I get a blockage
     

 

Also after you get a blockage have you checked the surface of the filament in the Bowden tube?

If so is it

Pretty smooth

Has some small teeth marks

Is pretty rough with deep teeth marks

Are there any stretches along the length that have been flattened, ie no longer round.

 

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Hey!

I have the same problem and thought that it was a clogged nozzle. I did the atomic method several times but found out it was not really jammed. In my case its the feeder that suddenly stops giving filament. Took me some time to realize that and undid the error on a live print by simply pressing the filament harder in again. Maybe that is the case in your problem too?

I did not find a cure yet, but maybe I can save you some hours of troubleshooting into the wrong direction.

 

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I pretty much use XT exclusively as I need the extra strength it has and Ive only had 2 jam/clogs due to getting a knot on the reel.

I print XT in multiple colors all around the same settings. 243-258 is about the sweet spot, I can print everything at 245 pretty reliably. I can print 70mm/s at those temps at .15 with zero issues, unfortunetly I have not tried pushing it any harder but im assuming it could go faster.

To clear a clog with XT is a pretty simple task (at least for me it was), just raise the temp up to 260, wait about 5 min once its there try to extrude. It should free up at this point, if not remove the filament and use the atomic method heating up to 260 and then cooling to 90, wait 2-3 min and pull it out fairly hard.

 

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In 2013 I had zero problems with Colorfabb filament (PLA/PHA). This year (quite early I think) they did two things – changed the pla and pha mix and relocated the factory. My experience this year is that the consistency of the filament width has dropped considerably. That is not to say it is not a good filament, it is, nor that you cannot print with it, you can. But disappointing nonetheless.

I have bought some 3mm (id) bearings which I slip over the filaments so I can then easily see that they do not (or do) exceed 3.00mm

 

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@UltiArjan: I just sliced my tower test for UM2 and uploaded on YM.

Obviously, I don't own an UM2, so 'handle with care' -- I appreciate any feedback so I don't leave it there if it does not work ;)

 

@Amedee, thanks for sharing the g-code, just tried on my UM2 and it's working. Was a bit surprised by the 2 towers, only expected 1 :-P I assume it's meant for testing stringing... any other things you can "read" from the test ?

FYI, I notice on my machine the temp change undershoots about 3 degrees celcius (225>220 goes to 217 and up).

 

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Cool!

The twin towers... Yes I wanted to see if there would be stringing, and also, printing a single one might keep the layer temperature too high. It looked to me more relevant printing two at a time...

Other than that, I typically keep one as reference and try to tear apart the other one to see if there are differences in layer adhesion.

I also have temperature overshoot/undershoot on changes. I guess it depends on how well the PID loop is tuned. My UMO does a very good job a keeping temperature stable, and when changing it oscillate a bit, but nothing dramatic (Same thing when you turn the fan on/off)

 

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