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poor man's drop in nozzle replacement


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Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

I received my UMO+ tuesday by 14H, assembly finished Wednesday 20H (yeah, i'm not fast) and by Wednesday 22H, i broke the nozzle in the heater block : as i noticed some oozing, I decided to tighten a bit, but it seems that i tighten too much :

snap

 

i ordered a spare nozzle , but i also searched for a bypass, and today i'm printing with this :

 

buses De fortune

you get ten of these for 10€ at "CASTORAMA" (it's a french store like 'HOME DEPOT'). I dont know exactly what they are intended to be used for (something about soldering) , but they do the job : the M6 thread is about the same length as on my now defunct nozzle, the hole is 0.6 mm wide (exists in 0.8 and 1.0 mm too )

the internal diameter is 0.6, too : there is only a small cone near the tail of the nozzle, but it looks like it works anyway, with maybe a bit of underextrusion.

 

i'll replace it with the official spare part as soon as i'll receive it, but while i wait, i'm really happy to be able to use my printer with that !

 

 

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    If you insulate the long nozzle (use something like kapton tape, maybe with some ceramic cloth/tape underneath) I would actually think this could be a fine long term solution... almosth worth a try, considering the prize of original nozzles (+ shipping :eek: !)

    Im actually running a 0.6 mm. nozzle atm, and with the right Cura settings it works nicely, you can finish prints alot faster too :)

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    It's a welding nozzle, for Mig/Mag type welding: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_metal_arc_welding

    Anyway, like Tommyph1208 said, If you insulate that it might even be working (except loss of build height). Or in anycase, print a different fan shroud. Now you are cooling your nozzle

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    i'll try to wrap it in kapton (but i have to order some, and my 'official' nozzle will hopefully arrive before the tape)

    i think that the termal loss may be is not that important, as the internal diameter is 0.6 all the way down (so, more mass, more thermal inertia)

    i just noticed that the springs under the bed are a bit compressed when the nozzle hoovers over the part : my underextrusion may be due to poor bed levelling (to close to the nozzle).

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    That's a good solution, but don't get fooled:

    The nozzle with 0.6 stamped on it is actually 0,8mm and intended to be used for MIG/MAG welding material ( as Titus already mentioned.) which is 0,6mm in diameter. So, if the nozzle is 0,6 mm, that would't fit. The 0,8 is actually 1,0mm and the 1,0 is 1,2mm. Rooie Joris printed a life size elephant with a 0,8 nozzle in 4 UMO's:-)

    No problem at all, if you change the diameter to the right dimensions in Cura, I printed 1,5kg filament with it without cooling problems. (original fan housing)

    If you have a M6 threadcutterplate, you can also cut the thread up to the original lenght and cut of the extend. Take a good look inside before you do this…but it saves you 10mm building height.

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    Another tip:

    at first you put in your nozzle up to the aluminium heaterblock, then screw the brass bolt in the PEEK part. Heavy ? Take it out and cut the thread inside. Screw the brass bolt and PEEK assembly into the heaterblock Dis-assemble in reversed order.

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    so it is 0.8.... thanks A LOT for solving my underextrusion problem !

     

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    Posted · poor man's drop in nozzle replacement

    There are plenty of "reprap" nozzles on ebay that fit UMO just fine also.

     

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