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sotakuma

Ultimaker Original Foehnsturm Pulleys

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He needs at least 10 orders to make it worth while, there is a list in one of the posts somewhere, think you would take it up to around 4/5 people now. Keep pushing, I want some too!

 

True, but you can double the figures. 200 or 300 pcs would be a reasonable lot size. As most people seem to buy an UM2 now the demand is declining.

 

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He needs at least 10 orders to make it worth while, there is a list in one of the posts somewhere, think you would take it up to around 4/5 people now. Keep pushing, I want some too!

 

I don't mind buying 5 kits of pulleys since I'm pretending to buy more Ultimakers for my business. Do you have a link for the list post?

 

True, but you can double the figures. 200 or 300 pcs would be a reasonable lot size. As most people seem to buy an UM2 now the demand is declining.

 

Thanks for answering to this post. Can 100 pieces be possible? I know because of the low number of pieces the cost is going to be a little bit higher. But can this be an option in case that we don't get more people to reach 200 pieces?

 

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You can find good GT2 pulleys on http://www.robotdigg.com. There are other sources, of course. But that's where I got mine from.

I'd suggest switching out the grub screws for some stainless steel quality hardware, but that's just me being... myself.

I don't know about the belts from Robotdigg. I got mine from Misumi (which are actually manufactured by Gates Unitta, a renowned manufacturer for belts in the automotive / racing and industry fields).

IIRC (citation needed!), you will need 303-tooth (616mm length) belts for an UMO. I made my own frame, so I can't tell about the original one.

You should also replace the slider blocks (for example with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/twisterblocks).

/edit:

Oh, and there's the short belts of course. I'd suggest to go direct drive, but if you don't want that you'll need to get short GT2 belts, too. No clue how long they need to be, though...

 

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here is the original thread, I suggest you continue the discussion there:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/page-14

That said, switch to GT2 as Jonny suggestions. 303 tooth for the long belts, 100 for the short.

JUST NOTE that you MUST switch to a different block because at 303 tooth, the long belts do NOT require tensioning and in fact won't fit on the stock blocks.

Good quality GT2 belts can be obtained from SDP/SI. These are the actual part links I ordered:

2 of http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R51M100060

4 of http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R51M303060

 

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For gt2 xy blocks, I highly recommend the Reptar V2 XY blocks on youmagine.

Another really good mod is switching to direct drive. Lots of options for that. I personally recommend the corner motor mount on (youmagine) and getting the longer rods from Misumi (some other places might also sell good rods, but the ones from McMaster are not up to the claimed specs)

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For gt2 xy blocks, I highly recommend the Reptar V2 XY blocks on youmagine.

Another really good mod is switching to direct drive. Lots of options for that. I personally recommend the corner motor mount on (youmagine) and getting the longer rods from Misumi (some other places might also sell good rods, but the ones from McMaster are not up to the claimed specs)

 

If you want to switch to direct drive, but don't want to get longer rods, you can make do with the existing rods by using these:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive

 

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If you want to switch to direct drive, but don't want to get longer rods, you can make do with the existing rods by using these:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive

 

I wonder what the difference in precision (in terms of post-mod print quality) is between doing that and getting longer rods.

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I wonder what the difference in precision (in terms of post-mod print quality) is between doing that and getting longer rods.

 

I did that, and the quality is very good. You just have to make sure that the bearing adapters are solid, well centered, and tight to the case. It's ~15mm less rod to flex than with the longer rods. The biggest problem is with the tight fit getting everything square and the grub screws tight. That's why I made the shorte version for the front-right x.

 

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I did that, and the quality is very good. You just have to make sure that the bearing adapters are solid, well centered, and tight to the case. It's ~15mm less rod to flex than with the longer rods. The biggest problem is with the tight fit getting everything square and the grub screws tight. That's why I made the shorte version for the front-right x.

 

If there is a benefit to reducing the span of the rods, than maybe it would be worth installing them on all the rod ends (looks like one would need to mod it to have a through hole.

Still, just finally got my machine in really good working order. Don't want to mess with it anymore, accept for maybe doing something to reduce hot end mass, or going the other way and building that mini direct drive extruder.

 

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Thank you guys for the answer and tips.

 

You can find good GT2 pulleys on http://www.robotdigg.com. There are other sources, of course. But that's where I got mine from.

I'd suggest switching out the grub screws for some stainless steel quality hardware, but that's just me being... myself.

I don't know about the belts from Robotdigg. I got mine from Misumi (which are actually manufactured by Gates Unitta, a renowned manufacturer for belts in the automotive / racing and industry fields).

IIRC (citation needed!), you will need 303-tooth (616mm length) belts for an UMO. I made my own frame, so I can't tell about the original one.

You should also replace the slider blocks (for example with Chopmeister's Twisterblocks).

/edit:

Oh, and there's the short belts of course. I'd suggest to go direct drive, but if you don't want that you'll need to get short GT2 belts, too. No clue how long they need to be, though...

 

Definitely I will start to look on to this GT2 convertion, now that you point me on the right direction it's seemsn very doable for my level of skills.

 

here is the original thread, I suggest you continue the discussion there:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/page-14

That said, switch to GT2 as Jonny suggestions. 303 tooth for the long belts, 100 for the short.

JUST NOTE that you MUST switch to a different block because at 303 tooth, the long belts do NOT require tensioning and in fact won't fit on the stock blocks.

Good quality GT2 belts can be obtained from SDP/SI. These are the actual part links I ordered:

2 of http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R51M100060

4 of http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R51M303060

 

Thanks anon4321, with Jopnny Bischof suggestions and this all I need to do now is buy those things, I will order those parts and do a comparative between better quality MXL pulleys and GT2 system. I think that we all ready know that the GT2 system it's better, but for some beginners like my self maybe the MXL swap could a little easier, but since the UM2 go for the GT2 components it's definitely the way to go after upgrading the MXL pulleys.

 

I just asked to workshop to update their last quotation (dated 2013).

 

Thank you very much, I really appreciate the effort, I'll be checking this post for the last quotes.

 

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For gt2 xy blocks, I highly recommend the Reptar V2 XY blocks on youmagine.

Another really good mod is switching to direct drive. Lots of options for that. I personally recommend the corner motor mount on (youmagine) and getting the longer rods from Misumi (some other places might also sell good rods, but the ones from McMaster are not up to the claimed specs)

 

I all ready do a little research on this Direct Drive system for the Ultimaker, I'll be honest whit you, for me It's seems a huge improvement over the short belts, but at the same time I think that it needs some more tweaking that just adding some connectors. In your experience. How difficult it's this mod? It's just simple plug and play?

 

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While I haven't actually tested a direct drive system myself (my build is almost finished, but still never tested...), the main differences are:

+ Better accuracy (because no backlash from the short belts)

+ Simpler build with less parts

- More noise because the motor is directly coupled to the shafts

- More stress on the motor because there is no dampening effect from the short belts (shouldn't be a problem).

And then, there's the thing about flexible shaft couplers. I bought a few from reprap shops and I really didn't like them because they have very little torsional stiffness (you can twist them by hand). I bought MUCH better ones from Misumi (CPSX19-5-8), but these cost 26 EUR per piece.

If you look at the drawings (at Misumi), you see that these couplers are made differently. The usual reprap ones are shaped like a spring, which enables them to twist. This might lead to a "ringing" effect in prints when the motors change direction rapidly.

I said might - I haven't actually checked that! Just a thing that I observed on the parts themselves.

/edit:

It's not just plug-and-play. The short belts induce a change in moving direction - if you leave them away, you'll need to invert the x and y motors' direction. You can either do that by switching the correct motor wires on the connector, or by inverting the x and y axes in the firmware.

 

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I made the direct drive modification myself. I have been printing quite some hours with it. As far as quality improvement I don't notice that much. There is still backlash since the long belts are still there and possibly that is the biggest contributer. As far as the noise it does not make much difference. Sometimes there is less noice since the backplane of the printer does not vibrate with the motors and sometimes the high frequency pitch breaks through but that depends on the movement and the speed settings.

As far as the force that the motors need to apply the situation has improved. When I move the head around by hand I can feel it is a little lighter but there is still some drag due to the fact that one of pulleys is wobbling. Did not upgrade the pulleys yet. My impression is that the motors are running a little cooler since I did this mod. Having the motors on the outside also helps cooling since I also print ABS where I close the printer.

I switched the wires around so no modification on the firmware needed.

How easy is it to do. Well you have to have some experience with tinkering. If you don't like taking the printer apart don't do this modification. If you feel comfortable taking the axis out and change the connectors then you will be fine.

 

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I all ready do a little research on this Direct Drive system for the Ultimaker, I'll be honest whit you, for me It's seems a huge improvement over the short belts, but at the same time I think that it needs some more tweaking that just adding some connectors. In your experience. How difficult it's this mod? It's just simple plug and play?

 

I did it because I wasn't able to reduce the short belt backlash to the point I wanted. Implementing the mod was just a matter of printing the external motor mount, replacing 2 of the rods with longer ones, connecting the motors with helical couplers, and switching the wires on one of the motors to reverse its direction. This solved the large majority of my backlash problem.

To get rid of the remaining measurable backlash, I switched to gt2 belts and pulleys with reptar xy blocks. Some people seem to get better results than others from the stock belts, so your improvement may not be as big as mine.

The results are most visible to the naked eye in my top fill, which no longer has the backlash induced basket weave look, with little gaps every other line. There was also a very noticable improvement in precision. For example, currently, a 20mm cube on my printer will have an x and y width that measure 20.002mm, which is within the precision of my calipers.

Hope that all came out clearly. Hard to type long coherent posts from a phone.

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