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Also I had some suggestions about EM interference. Did you read my post from about 3 weeks ago? Because the noise level is so high and because the test only takes a few seconds to check the sensor, I would experiment with moving things away from the printer (or move the printer to a new location) and rerun that sensor test. It's so easy to do. See if the number goes up or down when you move the printer from all EM sources.

@madmax21- "production stop"? Why did you wait 3 weeks then to post here again? Did you know you can do manual leveling? It depends on how much time you want to spend on fixing this. Manual leveling can get you running immediately but I don't recommend it if you can wait for a proper fix. Also manual leveling is not great if you are printing large parts and your glass bed has some warp to it because the printer doesn't take into account the curves of the glass when in manual leveling mode. I can tell you that with a noise level so high, that's a good thing because there is no need to mess around with anything else until you get that noise level down below 8. No need to play with print cores or switch calibration Is that what you said or is that what Ultimaker support said? If you have a 1 day old car, and you get a flat tire, does that mean you shouldn't change the tire? This statement above is confusing. Is that what Ultimaker told you? If your printer is indeed less than 1 year old then you probably have a warranty and if you need a new PCB then it is probably free.

That was a specific key new feature to UltiMaker Cura 5. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417421589

I mean … 1/4” retract, arch move, 1/4” insert,,, auto ratchet!

The white bits indicate points where it starts extruding after a move - in this case that's the Z seam, where it starts printing each layer. It'll do a white dot for anywhere it starts extruding on outer walls because where it starts can be visible sometimes. Playing around with the Z seam options in your print settings (often the easiest way to find which options hide the Z seam best) if I set Z Seam Alignment to Shortest and Seam Corner Preference to Hide Seam puts it away in this corner:

Thank you so much for your thorough response! It appears that adjusting the 'minimum wall line width' is going to be quite beneficial. I'll give this a try once the current print is finished. While I acknowledge that the profiles are somewhat thin, we've successfully printed similar designs in the past, yielding results like the one with the 2 cents in the picture. We're using a bowden extruder (CR10S). Upon investigation, I've discovered that the previous version of Cura (4.13) handled things differently. That version didn't feature the 'minimum wall line width' setting, and after slicing, there were no white dots on the walls, as shown in the attached screenshots. Reducing the minimum wall line width eliminates most of these dots, with the exception of one, which i can't seem to get rid of. I've attached the models in 3mf format for both 4.13 and 5.7.1. I fixed the STL 😉 I'll give this a try. Cura 4.13.3mf Cura 5.7.1.3mf

I like it. I picked up a set of medical forceps for things like that, but I think I'll scribble one up and print it. My bowden printer hates TPU but I don't care if it comes out ugly since it will spend it's life hidden in a toolbox. Now, if I can just figure out how to add a ratchet...

"...the addition of this feature will help a lot of people." If they can figure it out. So many settings cross-over to affect other settings that it makes it difficult to determine ahead of time what an effect might be. It's also tough to write descriptions of all those interactions (to many "if's", too many "unless's", and too many "but's"). There will always be some trial and error needed. Good luck with it.

Thank you very much Greg! Unchecking "Group Outer Walls" was exactly what I needed. Combined with setting wall order to inside to outside and some seam settings the problems I was having have completely disappeared. I had hoped to print the walls outside to in to produce optimal accuracy but I still get (smaller) issues so I'm going with inside to out which produces almost flawless prints, and the accuracy seems to be good enough for the parts to fit together okay. When I was looking for a solution to this I found a lot of posts from people having the same problem so I think that the addition of this feature will help a lot of people.

Eh... there's a problem where you can get your bolt and hand in to a space but not that and a second hand with a tool. That little gadget makes it easy to just aling the bolt, get it started then come back with the proper wrench (or spanner for you not americans) and get it the rest of the way in. The normal method of accomplishing the same thing involves dopping the bolt a dozen times, significant swearing, multiple tossings of wrenches (spanners) and accusing all engineers of being "feeble minded <inappropriate language> ninnies who should have been garbage collectors!". Not that I have any experiance with this problem. None at all. I swear. Profusely. At the feeble minded engineers who ...

Either I don't understand tools (highly likely) or that thing looks like it'll only be useful to contortionists and people who have enough time to pull their finger out, rotate around the bolt a bit, and put their finger back in. Many times.

Thingiverse is down? it appears working fine.

Can you please contact UltiMaker directly and provide them with information of whom you have ordered from and that order information? Contact here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/contactsupport

It's probably a problem with the model (most likely the normals) but I'd just go with Slashee's solution.

Go into Special Modes and change Surface Mode to Surface Normal: Surface:

If you could provide a Cura project file of your print (.3mf, in Cura go to File > Save Project) that would help a lot more than just having the model because it'll contain all your print settings. Your problem here is that the wall sections are tiny. They're a single wall thick. Assuming I'm getting the scaling right; the file doesn't use mm for units so I just resized it to fit my bed (best case scenario). Basically, the print head makes a quick stop then moves to the next one. There's no way to do that cleanly, even if you have the best retraction settings in the world (although it might not retract over that short a distance anyway. Here it is step by step: Start of layer: This little bit here is the first part of the layer it does, probably because it's closest to the Z seam (I'm just using the stock "standard quality" profile). Print head zooms off and starts to print walls: Now comes back and does outer walls. Notice how it's doing a tiny little hump at each section? That's as far as it can go out (and come back in) without going into an area so thin it would have to stop and move back into the centre, because Cura prints the outline as a single, uninterrupted line (where possible) Finishes the outer wall, starts coming back for this bit: Goes to the closest part along the route it was travelling and does that little bit: From here I'm turning travel lines on. It travels to the next closest bit that needs to be done: Prints that little bit: Travels to the next closest part: Prints that little bit: And... repeat: Your finished wall section: The bits which are more noticeable are probably the ends, not the starts, since they'll get pulled away from their position because they're not dry yet. So how do we fix it? Go to Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width and set it to the lowest advisable setting, 60% of the nozzle diameter. 0.4mm nozzles are fairly common, that gives you a minimum width of 0.24mm (although whether that's enough depends on how big you're actually printing it): Now instead of doing one thick wall where it can't go back, it does a thin wall out and then back in. This still won't give you a perfect print: Especially if your printer has a Bowden extruder (you put the filament into a thing somewhere on the frame which has a tube leading to the print head). It'll hopefully be a lot better, but it'll be constantly changing the flow rate between what it takes for one fat wall (between the bits that go out) and thin walls (for the bits which go out) and there's no way the extruder is going to be able to keep up. It'll almost certainly lead to overextrusion or underextrusion (or a bit of both) in these sections. Also FWIW, this isn't the problem but significant portions of your model don't have any surfaces with the normals facing outwards: Some programs don't produce very good STL files, so it's probably not something you did. Blender has problems. SketchUp is notorious for producing files with these sorts of problems. But even CAD programs which should be able to produce the best output files possible still stuff up sometimes.

Look in the Mesh Fixes section and make sure "Remove all Holes" is disabled. If it is, then there may be a problem with the model and it might need repair.

I want to print a hollow object on a 3D printer, but it produces a full inside in Ultimaker Cura. How can I fix this problem? The model I want to print: The model that my printer prints:

he impeso esta figura a modo de test de retracciones por los picos que tiene en la espalda y en uno de los ojos ha dejado pequeños agujeros ¿sabe alguien a que se debe? saludos

Hello all! I ordered this immediately on in April: Print Head PCB UMS3/S5 Service Assembly Still did not receive from Ultimakrer, and they are unserious on this issue. I have production stop since then. Ultimaker dose not wont to answer... I think is the end for me with Ultimaker.

CURA Version: 5.6.0 Dear Forum Members, I am encountering an issue with printing vertical profiled walls using CURA Version 5.6.0. Previously, I didn't face any difficulties with this aspect of printing, as evidenced by the attached pictures. However, today I noticed that these walls are printing very sloppily. Upon inspecting the CURA model, I observed numerous starts (depicted as white dots) on these walls. It's worth noting that the vertical profiling of the current model is identical to those successfully printed in the past, both models printed at 10%. I am seeking advice on how to improve the print quality of these walls. Notably, the other components of the print are turning out fine. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. schepens-de mey 3D print.stl

The yellow colour of the input box is just a warning, not a flat out "can't do this" problem (that's when it turns red). It could be a combination of any or all of the settings listen in that error message. If you could sure the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura go to File > Save Project) then we can have a look at all your settings to see what combination it might not agree with.

Blame Microsoft: Now there's a cause we can all get behind 😄 Thanks for the update (some pun intended), happy to hear it's working for you.

The Error message is now gone after the latest update. KB4023057.

so where can I download the model since Thingiverse seems to be down?