Jump to content

cyclone

Dormant
  • Posts

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cyclone

  1. Especially since they spammed every 3d modeling/printing list and website to advertise this crap. I got the same email from 5 different Google groups.
  2. Will the design files be posted anywhere?
  3. It does seem that there is a global max of attachments and that number has been reached. Trying to attach a file of any kind gives an error.
  4. >recorded and can be viewed afterwards Seconded.
  5. The 1200's layer height can be set to either .254mm or .33mm.
  6. What do you have the "Fill Spacing" set to? I usually use 2-3mm. Also what Profile and Material are you using?
  7. You need to set M92 E14 at the top of the gcode file or as the default in the firmware. I find it best to put it in the gcode so I can switch from netfabb to Cura as the slicer. Click the "Machine" Tab, then "..." then click "Ultimaker specific" and in the Gcode Header put M92 E14 Or switch netfabb into Volumetric mode, but I've not tried that as yet.
  8. After a bit more time looking at the gcode the G4's seem to be around non-existent filament retraction code. If you go in and put a value > 0 in the RPM for Push On and Pull Off it adds several lines of code with the G4's. Is there a way to not put these if the RPM for retraction is 0? Removing the G4's removes the strange pausing behavior (obviously). I really think this is new behavior with the last update.
  9. I've noticed that the infill produced from NF 4.9 using the 4a Low Quality profile / material adds a bunch of G4 P10 and G4 P60 lines. Does anyone know why that is? It prints fine but the machine runs and then quickly stops and hesitates a lot during a print. I'd like for it not to do that. The point of LQ is to print faster, or so I thought. I've looked at the words in the Build Style dialog and even compared them with the words in a non-G4 adding style and it seems like there is no "add a pause for no good reason" checkbox that I can uncheck.
  10. Anyone looked at makerbot's MiracleGrue? -b
  11. Wow Daid, someone needs to shave their armpits. -c
  12. Mine works very well too. "Trash" Ultimakers can be sent to my address for disposal. :-)
  13. Not trying to sell anything, but there is a Sketchup addon called CadSpan. One of the things it is supposed to be able to do it take a complex model and "shrink wrap" the outside to find the exterior of the model. Making it a solid manifold object. I've not seen this feature created in any other system. Though I'd love to see it crop up in Meshlab or something like that.
  14. This is most likely from printing too densely. Daid's suggestion should work, but you could also set netfabb to increase the "fill spacing" to 1 or 2 mm, I use 3mm pretty regularly. Solidly printed things curl badly even if you are using PLA and even if you have a heated bed. If the object is too thin the profile may still fill it solid, if the number of surface layers in the profile is greater than the thickness of the object. In that case you could reduce the number of surface/skin layers, or change the model as Daid suggested.
  15. The only difference I know of is that binary STL's are compressed and thus are smaller filesize. I don't think ASCII or binary is better or more precise.
  16. I have actually done a little casting with my Ultimaker prints. I've done aluminum Yoda and Lego Darth Vader. Not sure if I could do jewelry level casting though. Not the tools or the setup.
  17. To answer myself. You have to go and get the Deuligne library and put that in the arduino/library and it has to be compiled with an old version of Arduino. I got it working with Arduino 22. FYI, For Arduino 1.0 Wprogram.h should be Arduino.h but changing that doesn't fix the new list of errors that come up. So use a <1.0 version of Arduino. These notes should be listed in the wiki.
  18. I've tried to download the tetalab zip file as well as zips from github and I can't get them to compile. I'm using Arduino 1.0. and when I verfiy / compile it throws a lot of errors. Near the top it says: In file included from Marlin.cpp:1: /Marlin.h:6:22: error: WProgram.h: No such file or directory Marlin.cpp:52:24: error: Deuligne.h: No such file or directory In file included from Marlin.cpp:1: Marlin.h:48: error: variable or field 'manage_inactivity' declared void Any idea where to get these missing files?
  19. The only override I see in build styles is "width factor." I made a style that had all the width factors set to 100% and set all layer types to "every layer", still way too much plastic. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
  20. I guess I have a question, I just don't want it to turn into a whole "how to use netfabb" discussion. So I've tried a few materials. I'm trying to generate a larger layer height profile for low res fast prints. As well as wanting to play with lower layer heights to see what are the limits. But when I try to use one material lets say the .3mm one I generated, I choose a print quality that is big-ish layer tweaked like "Standard" or "Low" but the material and/or the print quality puts out way too much plastic. Should I be able to just pick a material and go or what do you need to do to successfully use the materials? I was wondering if I just had an old version of your tool but I've flipped through the messages here and I have the last one you posted. I think I must be missing something. Do I need to calibrate the material?
  21. I printed the signet as well, I rotated it like a ring sitting on a table, then cheated a little and sliced a flat spot on it. The ring still had arches on the bottom (like it does on the top) but it drooped a good bit. The top side looks good tho. I probably could have slowed to 25% speed and gotten the design to come out better. Sorry about those crazy huge pics. These are a bit smaller.
  22. Oh yeah, that would be nice. Sliced in Netfabb, Ultra Profile .08mm and half height (.04mm surface slice) 198-210 degrees. (I run the temp a little hotter than standard) Speed I guess, is either 20mm/s or 40mm/s depending on if the profile called for snake or slow, that part I don't mess with. Honestly I was surprised it came out. I started it to just see what would happen, and a near perfect ring came out. The quality to the naked eye is great, the lighting really magnified any tiny blemishes. They really aren't noticeable when wearing it. I'm making a pair of pimp pinky rings out of this model. It's like the '70's around here.
  23. Dunno what you guys are talking about.
  24. Post a picture of the model or better STL or OBJ file. Depending on the model and size it might not even be very printable.
  25. mr_seeker, That is a bit far off. The stepper motors are 200 steps per rev. The drivers are 1/16th microstepping. which means each motor step is divided into 16 smaller steps. Makerbots use 1/8th steppers. So Makerbot = 1600 steps per Rev while the UM uses 3200 steps per rev. But you can replace the stepper drivers on a Makerbot with 1/16th drivers. I have a cupcake that uses 1/16th drivers on it.
×
×
  • Create New...