owen

Thanks Joel Is it exactlty that now or 10X that?

This is my most recent results Joel [08] Machine stop called. [08] Building... [08] Estimating build time... [08] Estimated build time is: [08] Beginning build. [08] echo: auto tuning pid values... [08] echo: please keep watch over your printer and be ready to shut it down if it acts strangely. [08] echo: discovering what controller output is required to reach 193c [08] Yes, I have a Realtime Control feature. [08] Supports RC [08] echo: highest temp: 63 [08] echo: highest temp: 63 [08] Yes, I have a Realtime Control feature. [08] Supports RC [08] Done building. [08] echo: highest temp: 63 [09] echo: highest temp: 407 . . . [09] echo: highest temp: 414 [09] echo: temperature stabilised at: 202.15 (co: 105) [09] echo: attempting to establish ambient temperature . . . [09] echo: highest temp: 396 [09] echo: final temperature: 193.36 [09] echo: 63% pv: 249.48 [09] echo: pv: 396 5468677ms . . . [09] echo: pv: 248 4867730ms [09] echo: process time: 4869.70s [09] echo: echo: process gain: 3.00 (deltapv: 332) [09] echo: computed values: [09] echo: kp: 3.000000000 [09] echo: tc: 4869.703613281 [09] echo: ti: 4874.203613281 [09] echo: td: 4.495845317 [09] echo: calculated p:333.025878906 ,i: 0.068324155, d:1497.232788085 a:999.08 [09] echo: [09] echo: warning! pid settings were merely computed. to use them, please enter the following command: [09] echo: m301 p333.025878906 i0.068324155 d1497.232788085 a999.077636718 Does that M301 right to enter?

The wiki was fairly up to date when I made mine but seems much more up to date now. Follow there links and suggestions for firmware and software which will make trouble shooting for you and anyone helping much easier. Follow the instructions carefully and take your time on the build so you put it together firm and square. Keep looking at the wiki, forums etc. in the mean time for any extra heads up. Florian's got a good site for beginners as well. http://techwall.net/ Good luck

Thanks for that Joergen, I've been getting a bit of warping just with PLA!

Today this problem diminished when I printed the same Calibration cylinder at 10 Degrees less (183 Degrees) and nearly vanished at 20 Degrees less (173 Degrees). When it nearly vanished it didn't occur till the top of the cylinder. It was only for about 20 Degrees around and a much smaller amount. The plastic was quite dull but was sticking together OK. It was about 0.6mm thick instead of the 0.8mm average at the higher temp (193 Degrees) which could be expected. Maybe if I stepped up the extrusion to make a 0.8mm line at this temp it may be just as bad. These are the things that change it. It's worse at higher speeds. Worse if pushing out more plastic. Worse at higher temp. Less for a bigger circle. It almost seems centrifugal force related with the above symptoms. What I don't get is why it doesn't start till part way up the tube. Unless it is somehow Buffer related.

It only happens printing the number 7 calibration ring. Which is a small layer, thick and medium speed. If I print the same thing faster it's wore. Pretty sure it's worse if I do it at a higher temp as well. Slower or thinner ring is OK. In order to print that ring I scale it up by 1.5X in the X and the Y and then no problems. I have tried many different firmwares and checked mechanics and most electronic bits. It doesn't effect about all of my printing so I'm not going to worry about it anymore, though I'll try other things as I think of them.

13 Hours

Yeah, you could do that. Usually want quicker access more often than that might provide though.

Hi They are fairly quite. I run mine in my shop. Your neighbours probably wouldn't be able to hear it. You could stand it on something soft to pad vibration. Marlin firmware does make it run quieter as does printing slower though I doubt you would need or want to.

That's actually a good size and amount of detail to print. If you did it using Netfabb on Ultra Quality style the quality should come out quite good. The tricky bit will be mating plugs into holes. Holes through a horizontal surface come out small so you have to drill them after or make them bigger in your stl file. It is consistent and repeatable so once you work out your sizes you should get good results. For what you want to do the trick would be to get it working reliably and if you're able to print at the cooler end of the scale you'll get less stringing. Then you need to calibrate and then you should be right to go. I think a lot of us here have the 3D printing as a hobby and are in a cycle of Improve the Quality, Make it go faster, Make it more reliable, Repeat. and print something useful now and again. This wouldn't suit you. Hope this helps. Owen.

nothing... So what are these values supposed to be mine are all default and I'm using sf40+ This is what I've been looking for myself lately. You made me find it. Thanks. https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/jzFDsHy0XVc/MzVXUxBNlcwJ This is fairly relevant, maybe write down what your current settings are before trying any changes. Owen

Hi Maybe check all your settings by typing M501 into your RepG and pressing 'Build' Then check against your settings here http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Marlin_firmware_for_the_Ultimaker Also check your belts, and X & Y Motor Mounting. I found mine to be loose and jumping the first time I sped up printing. I find Github a bit confusing too. I got my last version from Nov. 3 and I have had 1 unexpected slip on the Y. Hope this helps. Sorry for any obvious stuff you already know. Owen

Well I put in a bigger motor and changed EEPROM settings today, shortened and re-routed wiring. Still no change. I have noticed today that if I let the cylinder print go to the end that at top the blobbing actually occurs before the Z-movement. So it may be related to X or Y movement. I will check the couplings on the shafts tomorrow. Owen

Thanks again Toni I put in your settings exactly but still no change. It also stalled when returning Z to Home so I've gone back to Z80 on the M203 I'll probably try a bigger Motor for the Z Drive next. I'll have to print some of those feet to Raise my UM first though. I'll keep posting my progress to here. It's not that critical really. It will only effect me on the calibration cylinder unless I scale it up in the X and Y or else if I print a vase or similar that is less than 25mm Diameter. But I guess I have to fix it now at least just to find out what it was. Owen.

Some interesting findings there Berend. Could be a simple improvement to Bandwidth alright. Owen

Thanks Toni I did attempt changing the M203 Z setting to 300 but the Z motor made a high pitched noise and stalled. I tried 200 and I think 100 but was also getting the high pitched noise and stalling. I have currently it set to 60 but it doesn't fix the problem. I'll see if I can adjust the stepper driver pot tomorrow to increase that number and see if it helps. Otherwise I have another big stepper motor that I could replace the Z-motor with, then I'll be able to turn it up for sure. I'll keep you informed. Owen

Thanks Tony My Netfabb setting was right and I changed and saved your suggested settings in the EEPROM. Though M203 was 10 and changing to 300 was too much, so I changed it to 60. If you meant M201 it was 150 but it doesn't report back that it's changed when I send M201 Z300. I also tied changing M205 from Z10 to Z300 but that was too much and I ended changing it to 20. None of this worked. I Uninstalled and cleared Netfabb as per the instructions and replaced all Stepper Drivers to no avail. When I scaled the Cylinder in the X axis only by 1.5 it doesn't start the rough extrusion to a while after the Z move and then settles down again before it gets back around to the next z move (Picture included). Ultimaker Original+ Press Kit.zip The X, Y and E Motors are all new and bigger and replaced since I first noticed this. I think it may be in the electronics but I'm still open to ideas if anyone has any thoughts. Thanks Owen

I put in a new stepper driver and Z motor and no change. I'm using the latest Marlin firmware with no configuration changes. I notice that when it happens the X and Y motors stutter as the Z motor steps. I'm thinking of electronics now. The bottom fan is going and this happens straight after turning on so it doesn't seem heat related. Anybody got any ideas?

When printing the cylinder for Netfabb Calibration, printing just the outer skin so basically a single wall tube, I get a big blob when the Z goes up one layer. For the following half of the layer it is very uneven and thick and then returns to smooth again for the next half before it reaches the next Z move. It doesn't start till about 6 layers in to the print. If I print slower it doesn't happen. Initially I thought it was communication so I printed direct from Netfabb on a different faster machine with the same result. So I printed a cube with the same circumference (15.7mm sides). Same result. If I print the same thing slow it's OK. If I print the cylinder scaled up 3 times in the X and Y it's OK. So basically it seems to happen if the Z is doing many moves in a given time. The Z motor feels warm, not hot. I get a slight change in behaviour if I adjust the pot on the Pololu stepper driver board. I think the stepper driver board or the Z motor is crook. I have a spare of each so I will try them tonight. Just thought I'd put it up here in case someone knows what it is or comes up with the same problem. Owen

Upgrade went pretty good. I replaced X,Y and Extruder. Motors are running much cooler. I also turned up the jump speeds in Netfabb and I think it's extruding more consistently as well. Not conclusive on performance as I didn't benchmark anything previously but even just the cooler running temp is a good thing.

Heatbed isn't so necessary for the UM. Not sure why but it's mentioned somewhere. Also it generally is not necessary for PLA filament. It helps with ABS filament which tends to warp otherwise. There is some talk about making a heatbed for the UM though. I haven't needed one yet. Not sure about paint but generally we put down some sort of masking tape or similar which helps to make the print stick to the bed but able to be removed. A roll of this tape comes with the UM.

http://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials/pla/pla-3mm are good for filament. Fast service, price and material is good. Digital Callipers, Feeler gages, tweezers, small side cutters are all good accessories. Got any sisters

Hi This is the spec sheet for the ones that were in my UM (Sticker on the side says SY42STH33-1334A), which are bi-polar http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/pdf/steppermotors/SY42STH33-1334A.pdf I've got http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/pdf/steppermotors/SY42STH47-1684B.pdf which I got from http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/stepper-motor-nema17-incl-molex-connector.html By the spec sheet voltage is the same and the current and torque is higher, which is what you want. Having the same step angle is preferable but you can get around this with settings I think. They have a bit of shaft hanging out the back so they're not ideal but they do fit. I have tested that they spin when connected and operated from the control panel and am in the process of mounting them. Hopefully I will be using them tomorrow. I can let you know how they go if you like. Let me know if you need any explanation of any part of the spec sheets. I have a basic understanding and did a lot of research yesterday. I noticed those Motors were out of stock from Ultimachine and was thrilled to find these ones I already have will probably work. Owen.

The fills are very uniform with Netfabb. Generally only jumps where necessary to fill another area. I don't think you would be disappointed with Netfabb. Owen

Hi, I use RepG 25 from Windows 7 64 Bit. It's known that you can't extrude from control panel where as you can with RepG 24. You need RepG 25 however if you wish to use the Marlin firmware, which is well worth it. For extrusion you need to do it by hand or start printing something.