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Gooday Berend/All I also carried out your mod but slightly different. I cut the top of the threaded brass rod so 6mm was poking out above the heater block. Ran a 6mm tap right through the Peek part. Screwed a short piece of Teflon tube threaded with a 6mm die just long enough to go into Peek and meet the top of the brass threaded rod. This piece of tube extended 11mm above the top piece of wood and into the bowden clamp (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864). I then put the regular bowden tube through the top of the bowden clamp to meet the top of the short tube. I then tightened up the bowden clamp. An added bonus is I've gotten some length added back to the bowden tube (after having cut the end off a few times). I haven't done enough printing with it yet to determine how good it is though. I don't think this is the ultimate solution but the good thing is the Bowden tube mating is a bit less dependent on the 4 main screws of the wooden parts and you don't need to get the 8mm out the end just right etc. Please excuse my shoddy iPhone photos. IMC DMM video EM3-YouTube sharing.mov Ultimaker 2 Press Kit.zip

I'm no expert on the Arduinos but I think that's right.

Try swapping the X polulu stepper driver board (pulls out) with Y one to determine if it is that. If it is, check it for dry joints etc.

The fan is very light compared to the combined weight of the x/y axis and head etc. though a printhead tracking air jet does sound like a good idea :shock:

0.2mm Radius I think as the 0.4mm is the diameter.

I know what you mean but the build seems very good as it is. The only screws that have been loosening are the motor mount ones.

I had this happen after I replaced the Y motor and fixed it when I slid the pulley on the Y motor shaft a bit.

You need to determine whether it is a weak motor or power to it or something mechanical that is stopping it. So you could swap motors or try moving the extruder around by hand with the motors disabled and see if there are spots where it sticks.

Yep, that would be right. Enjoy.

No it's not that brittle. Big pieces are very strong. It depends on how much it is filled. When a part gives way it usually breaks apart between layers. All parts strength depends on there thickness, fill and shape. Tube shapes are very strong. Sometimes certain thicknesses don't fill as well as others. I did some experimenting using Netfabb and found for a vertical wall 1.6mm thickness filled well and 2.6mm and thicker filled very well but between these 2 thicknesses there was much hollow space and no where near the strength of the 2.6mm thickness. Of course this can change if using something other than Netfabb or if using Netfabb it would depend on what style you were using as well as you could create your own style with different fill characteristics. The other thing I didn't mention is heat. Although PLA doesn't start to melt till 140C or something is gets soft at a much lower temperature than that. So that could be a problem in your RC car.

Repeatability is no problem except where warping happens or if you starting at a different height. The initial accuracy may not be there but you can adapt your model to suit. For example printing holes turn out smaller than intended and so you may have to make the holes bigger in your model to get them right. As long as you don't change certain things after this, like recalibrating or printing at a different speed etc., it should repeat the same print. You may find ABS better for Gears at it is less brittle. Gears would be OK if they weren't too small in PLA I think. There are plenty of gears printed and used on Thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/tag:gears

Hi I live near Newcastle but aren't planning on making my UM bigger, though it would be good if it was bigger in X or Y for what I'm working on at the moment. I'd say it's fairly doable. For X and Y you need longer wood panels, longer shafts and longer bowden tube and you would suffer in accuracy and stringing as a result. For Z you need taller wood panels and longer screw. Basically I think you'd need to get it going reliably and maybe have backup power. Good lusk.

It sounds like a reasonable idea but at times all the power of the current Nema 17 motors is required. and performance can be improved by fitting a more powerful Nema 17 motor. The extra weight would slow down the XY jerk speed too, though I'm sure if someone came up with a strong enough and light enough motor they would go that way. I guess you are always stuck with the force required to push filament through a small 0.4mm hole.

Done in Google Sketchup which is free. It was time consuming but at least possible in Sketchup. I like and use Openscad a lot but this type of thing would be very hard (for me at least) to do in Openscad.

Looks like it doesn't use a Boden Tube but moves the whole extruder about. Which is much slower. Don't know about the quality of prints.

These guys had a good price on filament and best price on freight to Aus. Communication was great and they sent it out same day. http://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials/pla/pla-3mm Printed a bit with it and it seems like a good product too.

I got it uploaded to my board and ran M502 M500 to reset my EEPROM When I go to print I'm getting a bad noise from a motor, not sure which one and it comes to a stop. RepG 25 says 32r is overtaking itself or something like that and disconnects.

Hi again I'm having a problem when compiling/verifying. It gives a message In the Tools/Board Menu I have Arduino Mega 2560 selected. Serial Port COM4 I have uploaded other versions from Github before with no problems.

Sorry, I think I may have accidently reverted back to a version of Marlin from J-C. I'll just start again after this print finishes :oops:

I thought I had done that yesterday with an M502 followed by an M500 command or is that not the correct way?

Hi Bernhard and thanks very much for your efforts. I got Marlin V1 yesterday and printed OK with it. This morning however it wouldn't reach temp to start a print (2 degrees short) So I ran M302 S193 and it returned m301 p499.417968750 i0.129341077 d2244.761718750 a998.835998535 So I typed that in (changing lowercase to uppercase) followed by M500 and started the same print again I got the same thing, stopping 2 degrees short with the fan off. I put in the settings again but added 100 to the A value. This time it started printing OK. Not sure if that was the right value to change or if that was too aggressive of a change. I'd be interested to here your thoughts. I don't know much about PID except for the basic theory. I am getting a bit a bit of blobbing in the first few layers of prints and was thinking it might be temperature overshoot but not sure.

$241 for me. It got to Australia from Ultimaker in about 2 Days and 5 Days from Sydney to Newcastle.

It was Paul on the Google group a while back

I put in the values and did some calibration prints at 183. They went very good though I had to turn the extruder RPM up a bit When I printed at 183 it stopped extruding part way through on the down skins I went back to 193, which had been oozing out extra material in patches on the down skins (I thought possibly by going over temp but not sure) It printed very well onto top of the layers I already had there from the failure at 183. No big patches of blobbing. So it's possible it may have stopped the temp from overshooting. Not too sure yet as I don't measure temp once I start printing. I will be printing another copy of the same thing tomorrow from scratch (No layers already underneath) As this has consistently been giving some blobbing lately on the down skins, more so with the Blue PLA, I will see if it's better or not and let you know. Short story is so far so good. Thanks for your efforts Joel. Owen

I thought fans only usually have a coil in them and wouldn't be affected by reverse polarity except that they'd run backwards.