owen

Good one Micha

It may be switched to 1/16 via a short, which is why double the steps are sent to the motor. If you had a multimeter you could measure it. If not you could look for a blob of solder accross the tracks. Another way to prove it is shorted is to see if there is a change when you do put a jumper there or not.

I think there is a jumper to tell it to be 8 step and not 16 step or similar on the Arduino board which could be missing missing or there's an open circuit. Or it shouldn't be there and it is or there's a short. Someone who knows will chime in soon. Not sure why it's OK in Skienforge but there may be a software setting there for the 16 step.

Cool. You could use that for your profile pic.

Black PLA? Black PLA is horrible it's very reflective and shows every single flaw. But a perfect print looks awesome. I think an earlier print was another color. I saw that comment myself today and it didn't make sense. Black is practical quite often but not that exciting. This one should definitely be done in RED

Hi Peter Looking at your pictures especially number 1 where you can see the nozzle hole isn't horizontal, I'd say this would be a problem. Just email UM support with a link to those pics and get it replaced before you start.

There seems to be less Spam lately

I print at 210C

Hi Gasgano I'm getting the same problem and it varies from print to print so I'll be watching this thread too. As far as parts coming off the table you might want to start your print with the nozzle closer to platform but not by much you don't want to stop extrusion on the first layer, just be pressing the pla down firm onto the platform.

Check them out MM. That "K" shortcut is a real dusey. Not sure how that's supposed to be spelt.

Great, thanks for the tips MM, I'm about to get back into my design so I'll check those things out.

I've been putting in figures of 0.1mm accuracy with no probs. At the moment I've been making a Bike Phone Mount and I move the lid to 0.1mm away from the base so I can line things up between pieces but avoid the pieces from joining. These have not joined each other etc. I think this accuracy is enough for our printers. I seem to be able to use numbers down to 0.05mm and it seems to place those things right. It just reports back the distance to the nearest .1mm. For example I type in 3.45mm it will place the point there but if I measured it later it would show as ~3.5mm. One thing I find it does if you do your circles and curves above 36 sides it will join some of them sides into a smooth surface and some not. The part where it makes it curved is hard to work with as it no longer has end points to snap too etc. So I just use 32 sides or less. Sometimes when moving things attached to other things your lines of the other thing move in funny undesirable ways. I just finish the move, delete these lines and redo them. Sometimes A big surface that disappears and reappears when you do a finishing line the holes on that surface may fill in and not be selectable in order to cut them out again. All you have to do here is redraw one line of that hole and then you can select it's surface separately again to remove it. I do find the more I use it, the less frustrating it gets. I use the hide feature to hide things which get in the way often and this helps too. Using lots of measuring marks with tape measure and protractor helps and always have the instructor window open to good tips on how to use the current tool I'm using. I'm bagging it heaps less these days. It can definitely do some stuff fast.

That looks totally awesome. Love the color too!

I think if you go into preferences and select "Product Design and Woodworking - Millimeters" as your Template it behaves much nicer. I think the initial default uses Meters as the default Unit which is more suitable for Architects designing buildings or landscapes etc. It makes it easier too when typing in values as you do not have to follow your number with "mm"

Great work swepet Keep the updates coming

That's looking great. I've found 2.6mm vertical walls to be very strong as it's the lowest thickness to get filled. That is when using Netfabb. The next size down to give good strength is 1.6mm and then 1.2mm. But you'd need to work out the thickness for a sloping wall of course. You could get away with a thin top as this won't have any layer separating issues. Good luck and thanks for sharing.

I run the Ultimachine stuff at 210C with good results. I have done a lot of printing with it at 193C.

I'm looking forward to your design on thingiverse. I've been flying a quad on Phoenix RC Flight sim software. It would be fun to build my own. Well done.

Looks pretty awesome Daid. Thanks for your effort.

Hi Jörg Welcome.

Ok things to try Start at 230 and see if you can push through by hand Check the hobbed bolt is clean and not clogged up with filament Make sure the hobbed part of the bolt is in the middle where it will grip the filament. This bolt should actually be loose and floating around a bit. Check the tension on the tightening screw, should be firm so that you can't pull the filament backward by hand but not too tight as this can be harder for the Extruder motor to push and also the filament will get squeezed into an oval shape which can get stuck, particularly at the heater end. Report back here with how you went and if still unsuccessful give some more detail about the firmware, software and any other details that may help. Good Luck

Hi What temperature are you printing at ?

They are excellent looking prints.

Thanks for the update. It's good to see your observations and know how this turned out.

Thanks for the info.