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Actually I think I read it does actually sees if there is an arc and smooths it out. Actually, Slic3r can do that. And emits a G2 or G3 code then. Which the Marlin firmware understands as an arc. But Marlin itself does no attempt in trying to find arcs itself (it doesn't have the time to do so) OK Thanks

Great, sounds easy. Thanks for that.

Hi Scott It looks good. Is the MakerBot Mk6 drive gear the only part we need to buy? OK, I just noticed we'd need a spring etc. as well.

Actually I think I read it does actually sees if there is an arc and smooths it out.

This is a Gcode file I made to more rapidly move to each corner at your set height. It basically raises z to 10, homes the nozzle and zeros out x, y and z. Then it goes to your preferred corner (the one not bracketed out) and sets z to your desired height. I set my z to 0.05mm in the code and then use a 0.05 mm feeler gauge which should squeeze between nozzle and platform with a bit of drag. Then make your adjustment. The initial adjustment is the end stop using this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033 and the next 3 are the bed levelling screws. After you've adjusted a corner you hit the build button which makes it lower the platform by 10, home and return to that corner at z =0.05. Once that corner is done bracket it out in the code and unbracket the next corner. I set the x and y of each corner to be as close to the bed levelling screws as possible but giving room for the screw driver. G21 G90 G1 Z10 F2000 G28 G92 X0 Y0 Z0 (RightRear) G1 X150 Y180 Z2 F5000 (LeftRear) (G1 X35 Y180 Z2 F5000) (RightFront) (G1 X145.0000 Y10 Z2 F5000) (LeftFront) (G1 X35 Y10 Z2 F5000) G1 Z0.05 F200

I couldn't get RepG or printrun to go at 250,000 on my Win7 32Bit Laptop that I print from. From memory RepG just didn't work at all and printrun sent bytes at the speed but they appeared partly garbled.

I like to home the nozzle, then set the temp and wait, which I set as start code through Netfabb. G28 followed by M109 S210 I like to edit out the M109 command set by Netfab when the Nozzle is raised above the platform and the M109 S0 at the end which causes the nozzle not to home or turn off the heater at completion of the print. I have Netfab put in a M104 SO at the end. Hope that all makes sense.

With Printrun is it possible to edit your GCode from the program like you can with RepG?

Yes, i think PLA will often be ok but i will probably make some stuff that will be exposed to 60°C or even more. I've read that the PLA is not appropriate for such temperatures. Yep, I made a phone holder for my car and it went very soft and then shrunk/warped when it cooled down (first day) I think it was about a 30C day. Totally unusable after.

Wow I'm totally impressed.

I would say its a crooked polulu, if I read this: If I read correctly: You changed the z-motor to another axis and then it works fine? If so, then I would get a replacement "polulu stepper" from Ultimaker. Err yes, you would be correct. I was thinking (not thinking actually) the motor was switched.

It seems like a crook motor.

Hi You shouldn't need to do all that you're trying to do Basically first you should set it to E14 Next find a temperature that you can easily push filament through at Next adjust your platform height Next do your calibration at least for one of the styles you wish to print at Then you should be right to go Sorry for lack of links, but there are various posts etc. to show how to do each of these steps Good luck

Maybe try a glass/window scraper

I have had a similar problem. Try backing off the tension screw on the filament drive a little or raising your temp. I've went from 193 degrees to 213 and it seems to be consistent now.

Hi The Z=0 is to scrape the nozzle clean. I've never seen it give a problem. I set the Low and High temps in the material definitions to the same and put my most common temp in the Netfabb GCode header and home it first. G28 M109 S213 Then you just have to delete the one M109 from your GCode from RepG when the nozzle is at z=10. In the Netfabb footer I put M104 S0 G1 Z0 F960 M84 This turns the heater off and homes the nozzle again. I also remove the M109 S0 at the end which causes the machine to wait forever if you are using the latest Marlin. You can put an M92 E14 in your Netfabb GCode header too but if you only ever use Netfabb you can load the following in repG and click build M502 M92 E14 M500 So in short in RepG I remove an S109 code from the start and finish and need to change my own S109 setting if printing at a different temp to 213. I find this way the nozzle is always on the platform when not printing and doesn't need priming. Hope this all makes sense, just ask if you need any clarification. Here is a reference to the GCodes http://replicat.org/gcodes

Hi Devoney, You can run Netfab now and open your model, in STL format. Then you can drag your model onto the platform, select support type and click on 'Calculate Toolpath' When it is done you can view how it will lay down the layers of plastic. It's a bit of a learning curve but at least you'll be more ready for when you get your UM.

Thanks. I've had that problem on and off for a while and never knew what it was.

It sounds like a problem. A picture would be good if you could post one.

I think you would need support. Print it base down as in your top pic.

I have been using the 5lb unspooled coils from Ultimachine. The products seems good. I have been getting great feeding of filament by putting the coil in a salad bowl, and pulling from the centre. I have the salad bowl sitting on a platter of an opened hard drive (these have a good base and a great bearing). I have printed a platter that sits in between the hard drive platter and the salad bowl. This never stops. It works that well I have abandoned all other ideas of making spools etc. I also have a bowl for each different filament I have which makes swapping filament just a matter of swapping the salad bowl on the turn table. You should be able to get a crook 3.5" hard drive from a computer shop very cheap or free.

the heat sinks that come with it are fine. I don't find that they get all that hot. 2 of mine fell off in transit. I used silastic on the sides just holding it down (not between heat sink and chip) there is also a type of tape especially for the purpose that you can get from electronics suppliers which I am using now

I have the same problem when printing the Calibration tube from a Netfabb profile (high quality) Strong/Medium. After about 6 layers it starts to go bad and gets worse each layer as hot plastic goes on top of layers that are getting hotter and made worse with the buffer overrun and the machine pausing. Mostly solved it by changing the B setting in the M205 command of Marlin from 20,000 to 40,000 or something like that (not with my machine at the moment to check) this setting deals with the buffer overrun but effectively slows down the printing time of a small layer. Here is a good Post about changing stuff in Marlin https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/jzFDsHy0XVc/MzVXUxBNlcwJ If you are using Marlin then this might help else you need a way to slow down how quickly it prints small layers. Printing with less heat works a bit if you can still print OK else some more cooling will be required as you say. Alternatively print the whole model slower or slow down the rate with Repg etc. manually when it gets to those layers should work also. Please ask if you need more help with those Marlin settings etc. Good luck.

I can't see the problem in the pic. but about your belts, you definitely want them tight, not loose. I also had a a problem of tightness in spots when moving the head back and forth after changing my X and Y motors. It turned out it was where the coupling on the motor shaft was positioned. Although it looked aligned with the belt and coupling on the other shaft when I move that coupling along the shaft a bit it fixed the problem.

Not sure why that M109 is there or or how it effects it but you see how it prints from RepG with it in or you could delete that line and then print from RepG