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It could be more or less see what temperature you can easily push it through by hand.

Working good. Thanks

Yep

Did you mean my print, or did thedudevt post pics somewhere? Yep, your Yoda print in this thread.

Yes, your print looks good. It will be interesting to see how your experiments go.

It looks like you're getting somewhere. Thanks for keeping us all informed. I notice your fill is fairly sparse. Was that the same as your first prints?

Hi If you have calibrated correctly the cross hatching will almost totally fill but could be made to fill totally by turning it up more in the rpm setting in Netfabb, but if you go over than you get a bad print. Downskins = bottom layers, Topskins = top layers also adjustable when editing a style.

I can't imagine you could go much lower if you are getting delamination. Like Daid said your actual temp might be lower than your reading. I used to print at the lowest temps but have raised mine to 210 now with more consistent results and better prints. I have found Marlin firmware seems to give a much steadier and smaller temperature range which helps too. I get a lot of warping though and although I've tried a lot of the things to help, which haven't been helping, I think it might come down to the particular filament more than anything.

I have not tried this myself. But the "build-me-marlin" firmware might work with RepG26 if you change the baudrate to 57600 and disable software endstops. The marlin inside RepG26 is quite a bit older then the "build-me-marlin". But both work a lot better then the default 5D firmware. Hi I use it with RepG26 at 115200 with software endstops enabled.

Seems like a good idea you probably still need to use a gear between each motor and it's gripping part. It will be important that the gripping parts are made with the right amount and size of teeth to grip without stripping filament or squashing it out of shape. Wiring should be easy, you should be able to wire the the same coil on each motor in series. Good luck.

Yep, keep them coming.

Got to be careful with glass and heater see

The mounting screw isn't shorting it out is it?

I have been printing cylinders and getting warping. They are feet for furniture to go on carpet. They are about 5cm across and 4mm thich with a 2.6mm external wall that rises above an extra 2mm It has been with 100% fill To make a ground plane you could make a top surface flatter than a bottom surface, probably more so if you have less than 100% fill. Daid that is some monster squid!!!

Gooday Brad I had mine pop initially too and found I had to tighten up the Bowden Clamp a bit tighter to the limit of what it can handle probably. I have still been having a very good run with it and have basically just been printing stuff lately and not mucking around with my machine anymore. One small issue I get quite often when changing filament is if the filament has a slight lump in it when I retract it, it gets stuck at the bowden clamp and I need to undo the clamp and snip the end of the filament off there.

In the RepG window where you see 2 lines near the top that start with M109 the next number is the temp that is set by the GCode and is the one you need to change. I'm liking seeing your experimenting and results. I'm getting very similar results with different variations not making much difference.

Yep it came up earlier on a tab I already had open. Haven't had a good look so can't give you any feedback sorry.

That link isn't working for me.

If you're using RepG, click on the live tuning button at the start and turn the speed down to say 50% for the first few layers or so. Haven't tried it myself yet, just deducing that it should work. Please let us know in this thread how it goes.

It's fairly common. Warping caused by plastic shrinking as it cools. I found the other day that I got it much worse for a small part when I printed faster than normal so I guess it stands to reason if you printed slower for the first few layers at least you may not get so much warping.

Hi Great first prints. Thanks for your kind comments. I like how you've went straight to Marlin. You probably won't ever need that part as it looks like you won't be needing to pull your hot end apart anytime soon. Happy Printing.

Mainly to edit GCode in the Window and this mainly involves removing M109's. I also have a bed levelling routine that moves the nozzle around to the 4 corners and I need to edit it to do the next corner and so on. I can't see a good way to do this in Pronter. I also prefer the control panel slightly. I think it's better looking too. I use pronter for bigger prints when RepG can't handle them, though I have had one big print crash from Pronter at 121mm z height. When I tried the same print but altered a bit later on it crashed at the same height. The thing at that height had no major change in structure. It was sort of a funnel. The black command window had some message about an error with the serial port but unfortunately I lost that window before I could write down what it said. What is it you prefer about Pronter?

Looking forward to it. I'm a fan of RepG myself.

Hi It should be close Make sure though that your settings on the 'Print' tab match. For example if you are using one of the 'High Quality' styles in the 'Print Quality' Dropdown you need to use 'PLA - High' in your 'Configuration' box, else it will be way out. Other than that you should calibrate as soon as you can.

I use a feeler guage and adjust between 0.0 to 0.3mm when printing with High Quality style in Netfabb which is a 0.12mm layer height and 0.06mm half layer height for outer contours. I find if a print just doesn't start a couple of times in a row I adjust it down a small amount.