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Daid

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Everything posted by Daid

  1. Most likely your start height (Z endstop) is a bit to high. Causing the lines to be layed down too thin, causing the stripped pattern. (The 3 colors, pink, yellow, cyan, mean the same thing "infill" but are different sections of the infill)
  2. The bug that was fixed in 12.12A was only present on windows as it was in windows specific code. Not sure what's causing the linux issue. The stop at line 8 is a bug in the printing interface. The quickest workaround would be to use pronterface.
  3. Ah, you want to slice from the commandline. Best way to handle that would be: cd "Z:\Projects\Prototypes\Software\Cura\"pypy/pypy.exe -m Cura.cura -i "Z:\Projects\Prototypes\PrintQueue\Cura.ini" -s "Z:\Projects\Prototypes\PrintQueue\Pyramid2x10.stl" On the bad news side, this will change again for the next release (then it will be -m Cura.slice)
  4. The "v3" is a bit of a misnomer, it's a hotend design by someone from the community, not by Ultimaker. The V2 hotend works great, and there is currently no development happening to replace it.
  5. You need to run Cura with "python -m Cura.cura" now, this is more pythonish, and solved a few coding issues.
  6. Did you adjust the stepper power while the motor power was on? This can destroy up the stepper drivers. (Quite easy actually, I found out yesterday) There is some info about tuning the steppers here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers At the Ultimaker HQ, the steppers are tuned to give out 1.2A I think. But we use a special setup to measure that.
  7. I highly recommend using the latest Marlin and enable the "WATCHDOG" feature, this will reset the chip on a hardware level in case something goes wrong and temperature control crashes. This reset will hang the chip (due to the Arduino bootloader implementation) but it will turn off all heaters. Leaving you in a safe state.
  8. Which version did you use and how complex are the models? And does the single-extruder prepare work or not?
  9. As far as I know, because everyone else also did it. Just look at all the reprap kits, they don't have beta on them, and do require a lot more BYOB.
  10. (I'll see if I can get the chance to update the photo of the assembled Ultimaker, as it doesn't show a controller on the shop)
  11. Holy, that's expensive. Normal pulleys are around $2 in large quantities I think. (As you can buy them for $4 for single pieces) So that's about 10x as expensive. I can see the pulleys 'wobble' on some of the machines. But want to argue that it won't effect printing quality much. Possibly it causes some a-linear movements, which you could test by printing square boxes at different locations and measure them. But my gut feeling says the effect is very limited. Maybe someone could do some simulations or math to figure out the effect?
  12. I've used virtualenv for the MacOS version. No idea if it works for linux.
  13. I think the default is 3000mm/s^2. And I've printed with 9000mm/s^2. At the video I'm not seeing "amazing speeds" compared to anything that Marlin can do. If you want "fool around", enter the motion menu, set acceleration from 3000 to 9000, set the speed on the main menu to 999%, play a bit with the maximum feedrate setting (also in motion) and then tweak the jerk setting so you won't miss steps. Marlin has no issue achieving these "amazing speeds" at all.
  14. It should work fine on any MacOS 10.7 version. (It has some issues to run on 10.6) You could try running it in a terminal to see if it produces some kind of error message there...
  15. You lost me at "inches". But if your power levels of the motors are not properly configured then there is a slight offset in the motor positions with microstepping.
  16. Got the same amount of spring tension on the feeder spring?
  17. Actually, Daid is the name we used when we joined our minds in a collective hive-mind at Ultimaker. All jokes aside. I do not run, nor want to run the forums. Alexander is responsible for community management. So he does the forums.
  18. First thing you should always try on a blocked nozzle is going up to 260C, if you have flow at 260C, print an object, it might not be pretty, but it will take any 'junk' with it. I've unblocked a few nozzles this way already.
  19. Cura needs python 2.7, wxPython, pyserial, numpy (for python 2.7) You should run the cura.sh script in a terminal so you can see the error output.
  20. Lies. The low/med quality profile uses "MiricleGrue" no idea how fast it is. But no way it can be 20x faster then KISSlicer. But most likely this is a bit faster then Cura. Their high quality profile however, uses Skeinforge, in it's original form. Which is dog slow, at least 4x slower then Cura, most likely even a bit more.
  21. Yes you can, but Cura is not designed to do that. It's better to use PrintRun for that: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/
  22. The 2 main box headers where the ulticontroller connects, and then the connections going from there to the Arduino headers.
  23. I would recommend starting out with Cura: http://software.ultimaker.com/ It's our free software option, and it will help you initially setup the machine with proper firmware. It will also do some check ups, and help you level the printer bed. It's also easy to do your first prints from there. Netfabb is more powerful but also harder to use because of it.
  24. "flooded with support email" is not "public complain". Also, I assume the problem is not in the UltiController in most cases, but in the actual Ultimaker PCB. A bad solder there would go unnoticed till you connect the UltiController. So replacing the UltiController would do little. And the PCB is check and produced a lot better now, but old PCBs in the field are more likely to have problems.
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