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Daid

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Everything posted by Daid

  1. I've done a few prints with it. You NEED the extruder drive upgrade, else you cannot print it. Then you still need to print slow. There was this youtube movie about the flex uploaded yesterday.
  2. With a FDM machine like the Ultimaker, this is a very difficult print. Because of the thin sections in each layer, and the long thin pillars which break easy during printing.
  3. Guess you are the same person that reported https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/321 ?
  4. When you print from cura, the code that runs does a autohome followed by a reset axis. Overriding anything you did from the LCD panel. You should have had this key with the kit: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130115_103648.small.jpg But it could also be that there is electrical interference on the bottom Z endstop. Which is pretty rare, but I've seen it before on one of our pre-assembled kits. You could try disconnecting the bottom Z endstop from the electronics.
  5. Yes, speed makes a difference. At higher speeds it has less time to bond to the bed and because the head moves faster it also rips the line easier from the bed. This especially happens at the infill lines, where the head makes sharp corners.
  6. For the first layer. I've put Cura on very slow, very thick there. Which is not required, but helps a lot to get the layer to stick if you bed is not properly leveled, or the tape is less then perfect. I have the advantage here of having tested on quite a few machines and a warped 6mm bed on my machine. Cura also compensates the slice location of the first layer for the thicker layer, not all slicers might do this which could lead to deformed objects.
  7. I've done 50 microns with Cura. But I think it starts to get inaccurate about there. There are rounding problems in the code that start to show with small numbers. I always do 100 microns, which for me is the sweetspot between printing time and quality. (Also, slicing times start to get ridiculous as you go thinner and thinner)
  8. Go have your Cura is slow flamewar somewhere else please. This is NOT the place. I know it's slow, I acknowledged it. But I also know it's not that acceptable speed wise and that it needs improvements. But speed should NOT be top priority. And quite a few people are accepting the current speed. 3-5x faster was what I said. Which is NOT hard at all. Printing quality should be first. And easy of use was and still is important for new users. As for slicing, you know, the thing we where talking about here in this topic. Before someone decided to took my "don't focus on speed remark" and blow it out of fucking proportions. The outer skin quality is something I'm investigating, it's very noticeable on the Ultimaker robot at 0.1mm layers with Cura. And my C++ slicer has some improvements compared to SF on it. But I haven't nailed it quite yet, as KS still is a bit better. (We're calling it the "schurft bug". Schurft is a skin disease FYI)
  9. First, congratulations on one of the first pre-assembled Ultimakers. Both directions of platform fitting work. But it's best to always do it the same. Yes, the wood warps. It warps during assembly. But it also warps a bit over time due to moister getting in the wood. Wood always works a bit. Most likely, after transport, you will need to level out the platform again. We need to assemble a "user guide" explaining the first steps after unboxing your new pre-assembled printer. We noticed a bit late that this was a huge oversight from us and it's in the work. For the assumptions: * The limit switch should be right, but the bed will need some leveling again after transport. Cura should help you with this with the bed-leveling-wizard. * Autohome should put the printer-head to the front left corner with the nozzle on the printerbed * The "reset axes" really does nothing (it sets the current position as 0,0,0. But Autohome also does that in a better way), as well as "autostart", those are a bit of odd features and have no real use so ignore them. They will be left out from the menus in the next firmware. However, if I read your final bit as a "normal assembled" ultimaker, I would give the advice to check your Z screw coupler. It's the aluminum round bit that connects the motor and the screw. If you try to move the Z and you can hear the motor, check if you see the coupler rotating and the screw is not rotating. Or the motor rotating and the coupler not rotating. Because it really sounds like this part has come lose during transport. There should have been a small hex key with your machine to tighten the screws in there in case they came lose (they are the only smaller screws in the machine that cannot be tightened with the standard hex screwdriver)
  10. Forget "fast". People are quite accepting the speed of Skeinforge in Cura, and are more ticked off by the fact that it doesn't support 64bit on Windows and runs out of memory then that it slices slow. If you are 3-5x faster then Skeinforge, then you are golden. With my C++ code (Which is called "SteamEngine" for now, but might be called "Carpaccio" later on, we haven't really decided on the name yet), I'm not aiming for speed. But code simplicity. If it's easy to see what the code is doing, it's easy to adept and try different things.
  11. CodeMaven, that works, until you get into the corner cases. For example, take an U shape, and have the bottom part really thin, thinner then 4 shells. Then if you do your basic scaling you will run into problems. (It's the issue I ran into with SliceAndDaid, and why I'm using ClipperLib, as that library has solved the problem)
  12. You can do shells in GLSL ;-) but you need multiple passes, with every pass of the shader you shrink the "polygon" a bit. But it's quite slow actually. I have a bit of python code which does this. But speed and limitations by different video cards caused me to abandon that route.
  13. I used clipper: http://www.angusj.com/delphi/clipper.php it has an offset function. (my only external library I used next to libc, and it was easy to compile into the code) Did add a bit of runtime, as it now takes 10 seconds to generate the GCode for a 20 shell Ultimaker robot. (10mb of GCode)
  14. What you are looking for is "papercraft". And the software you want is: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/
  15. I've seen those colors before, did your red also contain some black spots in the filament on the roll? Hi Daid, yes it did. Printed fine though, I was a little worried it might clog the nozzle but no such thing happened. Have you printed with the material? Not sure how much red we printed. But the gold/yellow one we printed a full roll. The main problem with the rolls we had was diameter consistency, the diameter varied quite a bit, and the filament wasn't always round. So not all prints came out pretty.
  16. I've seen those colors before, did your red also contain some black spots in the filament on the roll?
  17. Skeinforge development is dead. I'm doing what I can, but some code is just impossible to follow. It's also slow, so we are slowly working on replacing it or parts of it.
  18. I did my first print with my own slicer code. Just set the insets amount to 20 so it produced a 100% filled print, and it worked :-)
  19. Old info. We ship daily, and we have about 15ish employees, most of them part-time. (Especially those in packaging&shipping)
  20. My guess would be a bad solder connection, or on the controller, or on the Ultimaker electronics.
  21. Cura rotates the infill layer so it spans the bridge, and then applies the bridge speed on that whole layer. Not the best solution, but it works for most cases.
  22. Sadly, currently there isn't. I've tried to find out how Skeinforge defines the start point, which seems to be the closest point to the front left corner. But I couldn't find the point in the code where it defines the start point, so my guess is that it's a side effect of some code.
  23. I'm going to be pretty blunt here and say. It has nothing to do with the Ulticontroller and you have a mechanical or electrical problem. The fact that it didn't happen on the print you did over USB is just luck, nothing else. I would start by checking the pulleys, make sure they are screwed down tightly.
  24. The precision slicer is about KISSlicer, not Cura
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