Daid

You mean a grand total of 2? I know every single problem sucks, especially if it's a 80$ UltiController that is not working properly. But I can personally guarantee you that every UltiController is checked if it works (LCD, Button and beeper) before it's shipped. Seeing the shipping numbers (that I cannot disclose) then we would be flooded with support email if there was really a major production problem. Our current electronics producer is sub-standard, and we are working to change that. But changing this is not as easy as it sounds. Having electronics produced is not the same as baking a bread. The previous company I worked at made the stupid mistake of saying one day "Well, from now on, all electronics need to be produced at company X". Hilarity ensured and tons (100k) of money where lost due to lost in sales, extra support and lack of stock. Most of the electronic problems (I've checked out a few of the "bad" boards we have here) seem to be down to bad soldering. This can be on the UltiController side but also on the UltimakerPCB side. It kinda sucks if you need to check it, but it's not "unfixable"

THF seems to work according to: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... 49Qymftt2M You might want to read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrahydro ... recautions (especially the part about latex gloves)

The UltiController and M220 control the same internal value.

I mean, in the same house.

Maybe some electrical interference then. Got any space heaters or dimmers on the same circuit?

Looks like the parameter is the code, but not used anywhere...

Sounds a lot like you have a short or a lose wire somewhere.

It's a side-effect of the "stay inside model during movement" code. Which is causing some problems with thin walls sadly.

Yes, that's how the vase profile works.

This is not possible, not even in quickprint. The only thing you can do is turn the top off.

Cura saves it's settings in the .Cura directory in your home directory. So you can remove that. However, aborting the wizard prematurely shouldn't cause problems, I do this quite often.

The state of electronics is not perfect at the moment. We are working very hard to get a better producer of our electronics, and have everything factory tested (we test it in-house right now)

Would be easy to change the pauseAtZ plugin to do what you want. Just take a look at the code with a text editor.

Yes, quite a few actually. It works on most if not all RepRap designs if the printer runs Marlin or Sprinter.

While I've never tested it, I suspect you can run two instances at once and one will connect to one printer and the other will connect to the second.

Sounds like you didn't assemble something properly. The wooden gear should be kept in place because of the 2 nuts (cap nut and normal nut) screwed together, not because of the black clip. As per: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Bolt_assy_v3bolt.png

I wouldn't call shouting a "friendly note"

MacOS 10.8 is Mountain lion not Lion. The 12.12 release doesn't run on Snow Leopard, so far that is a known problem. The 12.12 release runs without problems on any 10.7 or 10.8 mac that I've seen. And the 12.12 release no longer requires anything installed on the system (it's packaged vastly different from the 12.11 release)

Most common cause of this is a lose pulley on one of the axes or the motor. (For the belts to "slip" they have to jump a tooth, which makes quite a bit of noise)

You should download the hex file, most browsers show the contents of it (lots of letters and numbers), so you need to right click on it and choose "save file"

not necessarily... the new V2 hot end severely limits the amount of energy that can heat the upper portions of the hot end. also, the big alu plate acts as a great heat sink, which doesn't need additional cooling. long prints at high temperatures (i.e. 30h at 260C) will not cause any troubles. letting the printer idle while hot for more than 30-60 minutes is more likely to cause problems. On that I can tell a bit more. I have a V2 hotend in my TITAN machine, which has no alu plate but a wood plate instead. And a tiny gap between that wooden plate and a PLA printed part on top of that. I've printed at 210C without any issue on it. I wouldn't dare taking it to 260C, but I think it shows how well the Peek and the airgap work for cooling. Like this: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20130112_225156.small.jpg (The black on top of the wood is PLA)

Also, 5 is in the works (being contributed by Steven Morlock)

Already basic functions of the ulticontroller And functions of the USB printing interface. So I'm kinda baffled by those two.

I think it would be possible, but very hard to print at once. But printing it as multiple parts and glueing it together would be a lot easier. As you could put the parts flat on the printer bed. Bit the same as a sprue building kit.

Looks a lot like what would happen if the LCD has one of the wires disconnected. So really looks like a hardware problem.