Daid

Functional it will do the same, the only difference is that the black spacers reduce noise a bit compared to the wooden ones. My machine is running over a year with the wood 7x spacers just fine.

Most likely you also have a kit with 2 slots in the back for the extruder? These are newer kits with a bunch of upgrades in the lasercuts.

On the status screen it is the speed that you change. I have my controller on the side of the machine, this way it does not cover up the logo =) You can cancel an SD card print by selecting the "stop print" menu item that shows instead of the "file menu" option once you started a print.

Note, offically I only support 10.6 or higher. But good to read that you got it working.

I indeed used Cura. And a random printer at the office. I didn't watch it or note the time it took to print :-) If you are going to print models like the one shown above, remember that the plastic will shrink/expand a bit depending on how it's layed down. So you might need to tweak a bit to get a perfect fitting result.

This image should show up: https://github.com/daid/Cura/blob/maste ... p_xmax.png It asks you to press this switch by hand, so reach out in the machine and press it by hand. Don't worry, the machine won't eat you. (It might nibble a bit, but that's normal)

Ah, but the problem is not gone, as you should be able to print at 50mm/s just fine. But you'll encounter it again one day, or maybe your machine is better lubricated now. Until you encounter it again, don't do a thing ;-)

You need to type REALLY fast. (actually, it's a bug that creeped into 12.10 and 12.11) You can switch to the "Term" tab and type M104 S210 there to pre-heat. Is easier then using the buttons. This bug will be fixed in the 12.12 release.

It's a warning, you can safely ignore it. It happens when there is a "wrong" triangle in your mesh. It has no relation to your printer. As for your printer shutting itself off, is it losing connection? Is it resetting? Or does it lose power?

Printed at 0.1mm layers with a 0.4mm wall size (to make the 0.8mm parts work better). In a blue color that we don't sell. :lol:

Instead of adding the the extensions to the object. Try the hidden brim feature. Set the skirt distance to 0, this will make the skirt act differently and hug your object. Then if you set the line count to 10 to 20 it will make a nice flat piece around your print which you can cut off later with ease.

The vase models are tricked, they ARE solid models as the 3D preview shows, and then you just don't print the top and insides. This makes it very easy to model them, quick to print, and easy to change. The whole vase/cup printing setting is tricking the software in doing the "wrong" thing so you get the right result.

We printed larger things then 5mm on fabric just fine: http://blog.ultimaker.com/2012/05/26/deaf/ You just need to tape the fabric down on the bed and really push the PLA into it.

275C should be safe. And the V2 hotend transfers a bit less heat to the PEEK then the V1 hotend, giving you also a potential higher running temperature. But indeed a warning would be in place. Messing with your firmware could irreversible damage your machine.

The assembly instructions where not updated for some changes in the kit, they will be soon. Instead of the 7X parts you need to use the little black spacers. They are these black round things of 11mm in length. (Note: This change was done to reduce noise) A few other changes where done at the filament drive, but this should assemble the same, just look slightly different. This will also cause a noise reduction, and will make it easier to open/close the filament drive.

Every one where you think "wtf does this mean?"

Most likely you just hid the mechanical problem with a different speed. I would not be shocked if you see it again with a different model.

You could try twisting or shielding. Else you could enable the "ENDSTOPS ONLY FOR HOMING" feature in the firmware, this will ignore the endstops during normal printing, which could damage your machine, but it will never ruin a print because of EMI.

Make sure DirectX and proper video card drivers are installed.

WD40 attracts dirt, it might run smooth now, but it will grind to a hold soon. WD40 is not a lube! It's a water-displacing anti-corrosion tool. Best is to use machine-oil (sewing machine oil), on the rods. Note that some machine that have been collecting dirt in the bushing will push out the dirt with the oil after applying oil. If you see black stuff on the rods during printing, clean the rods and apply new oil. Repeat until it stays clean. This could take quite a few prints.

I think one is in the works. But some options are "Just do not mess with them, the defaults are good"

MiracleGrue is AGPL just like SF and Cura. Your commercial gain thing could be an issue. It's not that we are selling Cura, but we are using Cura so that we have a better printer as a whole. And Cura has received some Ultimaker branding. So not sure how you feel about that. Note that without access to the sourcecode (we could setup an NDA) I could be become quite a pest as building bridges works best from both sides.

My bad, it's in opengl.py, "batchSize = 999" set that to 99999

Which is why I created the website, it builds Marlin as specific configurations you want. That's a lot easier then messing around with the Arduino stuff. It also adds a few files in the windows zip that help with installing the firmware. Or you can download the resulting HEX file and install it with Cura's "install custom firmware" option.

Delete the Arduino stuff. And use http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/