Daid

Maybe a silly question, but just throwing in a random idea. What kind of environment conditions your printer is in? Very dry? Very moist? Hot? Cold?

NetFabb still works as a slicer. So you generate GCode with NetFabb (which is faster, and some say better, then RepG) and then print using RepG.

Retraction/reversal is suppose to help against stringing even more. But a lower temperature also helps. The travel speed is limited by the "Max feed rate" in the firmware, which is 250mm/s on the default build. This is a bit conservative as 300mm/s can also be achieved if apply proper lubrication. You can change the limit on the fly with "M203 X300 Y300"

The TC Board (with the blue led) reports it's own temperature if it doesn't find a thermocouple connected. So a possible cause could be a broken wire in the thermocouple or a broken thermocouple.

So, why another forum? What makes your forum better? We already have this, the reprap forums, the google groups and #reprap on IRC, and maybe even more.

Uh: -Open the page -Leave everything at default -Press [build marlin!] -Download the zip -Extract it somewhere -Run batch file -Enter correct com port -Wait a while -Start printrun -Configure printrun to 250000 baud -Connect If that fails at the last step, then try configuring 115200 baud in the tool, and printrun, not all machines seem to like 250000 baud.

Never seen that page before. But I would ignore it if I was you. It doens't cover the new "volumetric" printing where 1 unit of E is 1 mm extrusion.I just measured my extruder for the first time (had to take a few pics for my calibration wizard for SkeinPyPy) but my default of 865.888 seems to be quite good.

Well, currently the printing from NetFabb is unstable anyhow (cuts out before the end) so it's recommended generate GCode with NetFabb and to print from RepG or PrintRun.

Or, the tension is causing the filament to compress into the bolt, which causes a smaller diameter to be used at bolt radius.

No idea how much plastic is in the octopus, not a huge amount I think. Because it's not that solid. What might work for a square base is to put circular holes in the bottom. Like this: Then you might have less stress on the corners causing no/little warping

Organic shapes have less problems because the stresses put on the model are not all in the same direction. I've printed a 18x18 footprint octopus without any warping problems.http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111213_232929.jpeg the bottom one, almost as large as a 0.75kg roll of PLA.

The advantages of a heated bed are less (no?) warping, and that the first layer sticks better. Funny fact, seems that the Ultimaker is the only printer without a heated bed right now. And still we are producing great results. There is a "build it yourself" heated bed on thingiverse. And the UM Team is working on a heated bed, but no word about the release date yet.

The files from ErikZalm/Marlin require that you install the Arduino software: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software But, it's easier to pick a build version from: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ this uses the same files as from ErikZalm/Marlin, and the Arduino sofware to make a working package for you. But doesn't require that you install all kinds of tools yourself, and that you mess with configuration files. Actually, if you disable "software endstops" (which is default right now), and set the baudrate to 57600 then it should work with RepG. You also need to set the "steps per unit" for "E" to 14 if you want to use the old Skeinforge. But I don't recommend that.

SkeinPyPy doesn't come with Marlin. So that would be impossible. But SkeinPyPy should work out of the box with the marlin from my build tool. The Marlin from Ultimaker does not work correctly with SkeinPyPy Beta2. It might work with Alpha4. (You still didn't say which version of SkeinPyPy you used, Alpha4 or Beta2?) The version from: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ (default settings) works with Beta2 (and Alpha4)

Sounds a lot like a missing M92 Exxx, or a missing upgrade to Marlin.

Which version of SkeinPyPy did you use? And where did you install Marlin from? From my builder? Also, something to test is, open printrun, connect, heat up to 230C, and extrude 5mm of filament. This should give a good amount of extrusion from the printer head, something like 7cm or so.

Realistically, with shipping. Small chance.

I'm not yet sure where to put the "model editing" yet. I can do the same thing as RepG, which is modifying the STL file itself. Or I can add rotate/scale as parameters to the slicer. Both have advantages/disadvantages...

Marlin firmware, and a lower printing temperature should solve your 'bumps'. Marlin firmware should be easy to install with Build-Me-Marlin However, the default build won't work with ReplicatorG. BUT, we have something better. SkeinPyPy. This is Skeinforge with PrintRun, pre-configured to run with the default Marlin firmware. Skeinforge got about 260 configuration settings. And that's just for the "craft" settings. Which settings to mess with? Well... that's kinda hard to say. Also, a bunch of settings moved between versions. The Width/LayerHeight (ratio) setting is silly. But there are about 20 settings you really want to mess with. My new user interface project, "SkeinPyPy Beta" tries to solve this: You have about 10-15 settings you want to adjust each print. The defaults make sense. And you can adjust want you actually want to configure, not what ever technical term Skeinforge has come up with. You also have all the settings you want right in front of you, not hidden in 5 different tabs. The most complex example is the "wall thickness", this is actually achieved with multiple settings in Skeinforge. The wall thickness is used to calculate the number of perimeter lines and the thickness of those lines. For stronger parts you can increase this number, for weaker/quicker parts you can lower this number. Piece of cake. Added bonus: The tool warns you if you enter something stupid. Like a wall thickness of 0.2mm Added bonus(2): It's about 4x faster then normal Skeinforge (this also goes for the Alphas) The SkeinPyPy Alphas are normal Skeinforge, but with all the defaults right for the Ultimaker with Marlin firmware. So you still have 260 configuration settings, but for a decent print you don't have to adjust any of them. Also, the "W/T ratio" is gone and has been replaced with a line width.

When did you build this firmware? Because there was a bug in the builder yesterday that caused no settings to be updated. Also, RepG26 gives 2 machine options for the Ultimaker, a normal and an experimental, the experimental uses a different baudrate.

You can use my default build to start with, but then I recommend you also use SkeinPyPy (Alpha4 or Beta2). Because using the defaults with ReplicatorG won't work.I recommend you make sure your machine works with the default firmware that ships with it, and RepG. Just so you're not changing 1000 things at once. And one you know it's working you switch to Marlin.

Currently there isn't an orientation option, you can move it around with the centerX/centerY options in SkeinPyPy. But you cannot rotate or scale it yet.

warping also depends on the material. PLA warps much less then ABS for example. Few other factors that can help: -Thinner layers warp less -Lower print temperature warps less -Pushing the filament into the printer bed during the first layer helps (I press my bed up manually during the first layer sometimes to make it stick better)

It's not because you are French (and it would be too easy to make jokes about this) It's because the baudrate does not match what ReplicatorG is expecting. Depending on which version/configuration of ReplicatorG you have the baudrate needs to be 57600 or 115200 instead of 250000. You can also edit the "ReplicatorG/machines/ultimaker.xml" file, which contains a setting, this is the baudrate. You can compile a different baudrate, or adjust the ReplicatorG settings. But ReplicatorG might not like 250000.

That's quite common in overseas shipping. I've seen packages bounch around between 2 distribution centers a few times before arriving at the destination. But be happy that it's not "lost lost", just delayed :-) Packages can also get really lost. At which point nobody knows where it is any more. And you'll have to find out who is going to pay for the loss. (I hope my untracked Faberdashery shipment arrives soon...) To bad DHL uses 3th part shippers in the US. Here in NL, I got a package from China, in 30 hours after it was handed to DHL it was on my doorstep. Now that's fast delivery