Daid

Odd. The fill pattern should be in "line" that generates just a simple raster. Which is the fastest to print. (other settings might be stronger) Rectangular didn't produce rectangles for me as well, not sure what it does... silly Skeinforge. One day, SkeinPyPy will also use Slic3r to slice models. It's not that depended on Skeinforge The Yoda doesn't have holes or wrong faces, but it does have problems at the eye areas, those are extra spheres inside the model. Not something the depth complexity really shows, but you can see it with it. You can also see it with transparency mode. It does take a long time to slice it, even with SkeinPyPy.

Great to have 5 extra users! If you get the: RPython traceback: File "jit_metainterp_optimizeopt_optimizer.c", line 9176, inget_constant_box__pypy_jit_metainterp_optimizeop File "implement_6.c", line 53453, in dispatcher_459 File "jit_metainterp_optimizeopt_optimizer.c", line 7708, in OptValue_import_fromFatal RPython error: AssertionError Error, then that will be fixed in the next version, which I hope to have ready this Friday (and the error is fixable by upgrading pypy yourself) Also, this error doesn't happen on all models. It's a bit random. If you get the "An unknown error has occurred" windows popup message, then you are lacking SSE2, and there is nothing that can be done really. The next version will feature a better error, but that's it.

Voila Not sure how I caused it, but mine was slipping in the beginning. Afterwards I used some... excessive force to tighten it, and no problems anymore.

Well, instead of lost steps. How about "bolt slipping over big gear"? If you didn't tighten up the gear nuts very tight to each other then the gear can turn without the bolt turning. This actually happened to me on my build, and also was the problem with Falc's machine. Maybe that's an interesting thing to test? To see if the big gear turns as much as the bolt?

The Beta2 doesn't configure the temperature. You'll need to pre-heat yourself. This is because the startcode also does a bit of extrusion, which was impossible with the Skeinforge temperature settings. So I opted to leave the temperature setting out of the Beta2. Beta3 will have a temperature setting, which will be an M109 at the start at the code, before your own startcode. 2nd option in the middle: (Screenshot of current development version) Beta3 will also feature M92 Exxx calibration, firmware install, Depth Complexity view, better GCode preview and various fixes. I hope to have Beta3 out by Friday.

Perfect moment to blame slic3r! :mrgreen: (just joking) The corner blobs could be caused by a high temperature. Even if the package says 220C, try lower. Because PLA already starts to go soft at 70C, and is usually printable at 200C. I would suggest, go to 0.2mm layers, even at at 0.3mm layers I had problems with layers not sticking properly to each other. Also, both other problems look like "to litle extrusion", which might indicate your "Steps per E" is not right for your machine, or you didn't measure your filament thickness right.

I recommend you always leave it in there, for any firmware. It can never do harm.

1) The fitting problem sounds like a mechanical problem. The hole could be too small, or the thermocouple slightly to big. If you have access to a proper machine shop you maybe you could drill out the hole slightly. But remember, the thermocouple needs to make good contact with the block for a proper reading. Else, contact [email=sales@ultimaker.com]sales@ultimaker.com[/email] for replacement parts. 2) Most likely, yes. Else your printer head will leak from the sides.

If a motor loses steps, then you'll hear that. It makes a very strange noise because the motor jumps a bit backwards instead of forwards. Always? I think the theory is that it's losing 1-2 (or some smallish number of..) steps at a time instead of the dreaded something-is-blocking-the-path-to-my-nozzle skipping where it loses a bunch at a time. The step motor is driven with 4 magnetic coils. These are "controlled" in sequence. A magnet on the axle is rotated to the coils for every step. If you miss a step the magnet is suddenly drawn to the wrong coil, and rotates backwards. This backwards rotation creates a different sound. Which you will notice because it sounds out of place. Also, the extruder stepper is extremely strong with the right current. I've managed to compress my filament with the thighing screw up to the point where it was so flat it got jammed in the bowden tube. The motor only missed steps after it got jammed.

If a motor loses steps, then you'll hear that. It makes a very strange noise because the motor jumps a bit backwards instead of forwards.

This will happen! :mrgreen: :lol: For payment to go from "payed" to "confirmed" always takes a few days. Even Paypal is not instant. And then they manually have to set your order to confirmed. The next thing that will happen, is you will get a DHL tracking number. But expect this in about 4-5 weeks. So, yes, there will be silence, but yes, they are working very hard on getting all the orders out. Also: See my signature. (Erik is one of the brains behind the Ultimaker)

A red led flashing? That's the "Heater On" led... odd. Maybe if flashes when the board resets. But no green light on the Arduino board, and no blue light on top indicates an "USB Power problem", if the board draws to much current from the USB port it shuts itself off. You could try to add a powered HUB to see if that helps (make sure it's a powered USB hub, one with a separate supply) But you could also have an short-circuit on the main board which causes the power to go "out".

It might be related to the advanced config, open the advanced config window and check if the "Solid infill top" is set to "True". Because setting that to false removes the solid top.

The "use endstops only for homing" option does that. It's under "Software - Basic" That's because NetFabb uses 3x M109, so it waits 3x30 seconds. Adjust the "M109 settings" and set the "Wait time" to 3 seconds. Then it will wait 9 seconds after heating up.

The arduino driver is also included in the ReplicatorG package. But the "driver" is a very simple file that says "generic USB Serial device with ID xxxx". There is only a single version of it, nothing that can go wrong on the driver. But you might have problems if your machine has more internal USB hubs connected to each other. Try the laptop to see if it makes a difference.

First, double check all packaging. Second, email Ultimaker support, they'll send you the missing switches. Third, wire up the switches you have to the front left corner and the Z up/down switch. Leave out the other 2 for now. Assemble the rest of the machine. Start printing. Add missing switches when you receive them. The limit switches on the far ends are less important, they are useful, but less important. The front left switches are important, because they are used to "zero/home" your machine.

Your 200C might be someone elses 185. Because not all temperature sensors are giving off the correct values. My temperature is quite spot on, and I normally print at 210C, while I have printed at 190C, it caused more problems then it solved. I can remove filament at 170C, so that's about my melting temperature. If you want to print low, you need to go slower. Also, different cooling can help.

Matt, then I suggest you send all your money to the creator of SkeinPyPy :mrgreen: ! I've put quite a bit of effort in trying to minimize the amount of options in SkeinPyPy beta2. I couldn't have done it without input of quite a few people. It never is/was my idea to replace NetFabb. But my question was sort of genuine, I don't have NetFabb, so I don't know which options it has and how many it has, and how they are organized. For SkeinPyPy I picked a lot of defaults. For example: why would you want to turn off comb? Never really. Same for other options, some you just never want to turn on. Some you never want to change, and some just need to contain the same value as another setting. Then there are a bunch "set and forget" settings. But the final philosophy is quite simple, the more often you want to change the option, the more accessible it is. So the most commonly changed options are on the first tab, on the left. A bit less common, to the right. Not changed very often, 2nd tab. Hardly ever accessed, in the advanced config. The next version will add no extra settings in the first two tabs. But it will come with a bunch of extra features, most unrelated to the slicing directly but related to easier machine operation and better model control.

I have not tried this myself. But the "build-me-marlin" firmware might work with RepG26 if you change the baudrate to 57600 and disable software endstops. The marlin inside RepG26 is quite a bit older then the "build-me-marlin". But both work a lot better then the default 5D firmware.

Yes. It's a known problem, on some models it happens 100% of the time, on some only once every 10 tries. And some models work fine. It's caused by a bug in PyPy, and it's not related to a problem in the model. It's just some times of models that cause it, but no direct relation to what type. https://bugs.pypy.org/issue1045 If you download pypy-c-jit-latest-win32.zip from http://buildbot.pypy.org/nightly/trunk/ and replace the pypy folder with the contents from that zip it will be fixed, and you'll get crash free slicing. I'll soon release a new version with the fixed pypy included.

I've seen the same problems when trying to print from my Vista laptop, and when printing trough a USB-HUB. It also worked at the start, but later didn't work anymore, no amount of rebooting/power down seemed to help. RepG also reported nothing more then you listed here. Then I moved to my WinXP machine and the problems where gone.

SMD, not SMB (SMB = SuperMarioBros :mrgreen: )The AD597 comes packaged in one of the largest SMD packages available, which is quite solderable, with proper equipment. However, it might have been soldered lead-free with is a bitch to solder by hand. Try to remove the old chip first to see how wel it goes. BUT, first see if there are any bad solder connections, one of the SMD pins might be floating above it's pad, not making contact. Sometimes SMD pins disconnect after fabrication because they where badly soldered. If you have a good soldering iron then you could solder down each leg with a tiny bit of extra solder. Also check the connector pins, they have had bad solder on connector pins on the main board so might also be possible that you have a bad solder there.

You mean NF has more then 260 options found in Skeinforge?

Some have more then 360 degree rotation, and some also have high accuracy. But then you are no longer talking about relatively cheap hobby servos.

In combination with the SD card addon (included in the ultipanel) you can print pre-made GCode files without a computer attached. Also, printing from SD is faster then printing trough USB, so you have less chance of buffer underrun. As for when you have a PC attached, with an LCD you can monitor the temperature at all times without having the PC request it all the time (causing more buffering problems)