Daid

Note, I tried autodesk 123d and I didn't like it at all. It felt like they took their normal CAD tool, and "sketchuped" it. It didn't feel natural to use. When I tried to use it in a sketchup way it got in the way of doing things. When I tried to use it as a real CAD tool it lacked features. What I did like is the rotate cube in the top right corner

http://www.facebook.com/europerminutedesign Joris is well known for changing colors during the print. It will require some measuring and experimenting, but it is possible to do this in 1 go. This is a good example: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... =3&theater

Well... there is the Laserless kit which comes with everything except the laser cut parts There is no complete list that I know off. See here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=403 for another person trying the same. For shops, look here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Buyers_Gui ... _Suppliers you should be able to source most mechanical parts from those shops.

The problem with a 2nd printer head is that it's almost impossible to stop a head from dripping a bit. So while you are using the 2nd head the first head is still dripping bits of plastic, same the other way around. The bowden tube makes this even worse. So it can be done, but it would be pretty experimental, and you'll need a lot of calibrating and tweaking to get it right.

Great job on the weight reduction! What's the weight on the other parts? Proper bridging depends a lot on the right temperature and filament rate. From the look of your prints it looks like your extrusion rate is just a tiny bit to low.

I am still waiting for my kit but in the mean time, has anyone made these motor mounts out of plastic and if so are they selling them? I have been doing AutoDesk's Autocad since the early '80s and can reproduce (STL) if someone knows where I can find the exact dims. Thanks... You don't need any special plastics. Just normal spacers. Should be easy to get from somewhere.

The Ultimaker+ is not available (yet?) as kit. It was more of an experiment and a "look, mine is larger" thing.

If you make it thinner, then I would print it the other way around. A bit of manual support for the screw holders would be needed. Does look very sleek

If your first layer is blown away then your start height is most likely a bit to high. Which firmware are you using with RepG26? Some firmware versions had layer shift problems. I've also had layer shift problems due to a bad connection in the power plug, but this seems to be rare. Personally, I recommend, after you solved all the mechanical problems you might have, to switch to PrintRun + Skeinforge 42 or higher + Marlin. This will give better print results, and require less messing around. I build this package: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Skeinforge_PyPy to make switching easier, as it's preconfigured perfectly to run for the Ultimaker.

12pt? that's only about 4mm in height. At that size the lines of a font are about 0.4mm in thickness, which is about the limit of the printer. So I can tell you now, the results won't be pretty for 12pt. For 4pt the results will be unreadable (if the printer prints anything at all)

Well, for fonts... it kind of depends I had trouble with a 1.8mm width item. It had 2 printed lines on both sides, so that's 0.4*4=1.6mm, so there was 0.2mm left, which was not filled up by the software as there didn't fit any 0.4mm line in it. But that might be fixable with some settings. Only doing 1 outside line for example could fix it. While this photo isn't mine: http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:14726 it shows the same problem I had with the same model.

Good tip. It would be better not to print upside down. You are printing on scotch tape, which has a slight texture on it. You can see this in the print surface. Small layers with a properly tweaked extrusion will make perfect top sides. No.Unless that stamp is a lot larger then I imagine you won't be able to pull that off. The nozzle lays 0.4mm lines. So you get lines which are 0.4mm width and corners with a 0.2mm circle radius. Makergear sells 0.25mm nozzles which can be used to improve this. But those details are just to small. Try drawing your design with a 0.4mm marker, never crossing the same line (even if you put 2 lines parallel they should only touch, not overlap), that's what the printer does. So you'll also get problems with the infill on small details.

Quick side question. Is there a list of abbreviations for quadcopters somewhere? I see "KV/kv" which my mind sees as "kilo volt", but that cannot be right. "ESC" is... escape in my mind. Cannot be right...

Great tip! Another source of free reels could be electricians. I know for sure they have large spools they throw away (because we used one in a project I did with an electrician) Now fill that one up with PLA!

The fan stopped when my cat stepped on the connector. Wiggling it around also caused audible "disconnects"

Only the steps per E is a bit different from the default ErikZalm/Marlin the rest should be the same... I'll be including a few missing options like acceleration, jerk and max feedrate soon. (That's what you get for thinking "nobody wants to change those options"...)

The wood is 6mm for most parts. (I think there are a few 4mm parts in it, but not sure) There are also a few plastic parts in the kit. This: http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... oM&lnk=ol& Might help you. It contains a list of the pullies and belts used, next to the rods. But the Ultimaker is an evolving machine, they keep improving it. Replacing parts. For example the printer bed was 6mm Plexiglas, but is 10mm now. The center shafts where 8mm, but have been reduced to 6mm. It's recommended not to use the wooden motor mounts: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... 6_Y_motors instead, use plastic spacers (same as used in mounting the electronics) this will reduce noise. This is a new discovery :-)

How about chocolate? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14421 I've got the chance to see and touch some printed soft PLA parts, and those are really interesting. It is harder to print with the soft stuff then the normal hard PLA I have been told. But so far I have been unable to find a seller that has it in stock. PLA seems to be out of stock a lot... and not a lot of shops sell the flexible stuff.

230C shouldn't be a problem, I've printed at 250C, at which point the PLA starts to get a bit smelly. You should contact Ultimaker for a new Peek part. But you better find out what's wrong with your machine before you replace it. Maybe you just have bad peek which melts at a lower temperature. Or your temperature sensor is not working correctly (but not going wild, as the machine will abort if it sees temperature over 275C or below 5C)

Peek has a melting point of over 340C, I don't think the current heater could even reach that. At which temperature do you print? I do have a tiny bit of oozing of PLA out of between the heater and the peek, but nothing like you see in your photos. So it's not normal I think.

There is a timeout on post editing. It's against link spam, which posts harmless messages and edits in links days after. All that work to increase google ranks. It's a shame, but it's needed.

80% would be a high estimate, but you are better off estimating high then low. It really depends on the object. You give in a fill percentage, which is used to fill the object inside (default is something like 15% fill) but because of the top and bottom layers, and any layers put in as support this isn't accurate for usage. You could take Skeinforge, configure it right for the Ultimaker (or take my preconfigured Skeinforge_PyPy) and slice a few models, it will tell you how much filament it will use.

Awesome! I also used 0.3mm layers for "not so pretty but very useful" items, but I found that the layers had a tendency to came loose from each other. I could also print an object just as fast at 0.2mm layers which provided much stronger results. (at thick layers the speed is limited by how much filament you can push trough the nozzle) Any info about the electronics, motors and software you used?

Wait. What?? Seriously? What happened to good ol' 115200?? I thought RepG was using 38400? Or was it 115200? Well... just don't use RepG to print. You're better off with PrintRun anyhow.

Flexible PLA might do what you want. It's a bit more expensive the normal PLA, and is a bit more stiff then rubber, but lot less stiff then normal plastics.