Daid

Well, they moved from a garage to a real building. They hired a bunch of extra people that need to be trained. They get about 100 orders a month (if I see those SN# numbers), add a few problems in the mix with kits (if you ship 100 kits a month there are bound to be problems with a few), and a lot of people wanting to know when they are going to get their kit. That's a lot of emails. I know they have 2 people on customer support, who both are nice people! (for those that didn't get the privilege to meet them) So any problems with communication is most likely due to the fact that they are flooded with requests. I also know, from experience, that communication with suppliers takes a LOT of effort, especially if you are a small startup that uses relatively few items compared to big clients. So saying "At the moment we are awaiting a shipment of electronics" most likely means, "our electronics supplier fucked up, we are mad, but we cannot do anything about it to fix this faster". But as a company they have to stay polite ;-) There is a LOT that can go wrong with electronics, bad soldering (as seen in a few cases) is one of them. But it can be worse.

True, but that error should be a fixed value + gain error. So for example the error is +4C +4%, which still should give a nice temperature line. (The non-linearity of both the temperature sensor and the ADC is very low) and these few data points don't look like a nice line. I've added the maximum temperature setting (275) to my marlin builder: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ this means you can go over 275C set point with a different setting. But use with care, at a too high temperature you will destroy parts of your machine.

Get the flexible PLA and print your own fancy Gucci belt replacements? Note: I don't think flexible PLA will work as belts, because normal belts contain reenforcements so it doesn't stretch. You might be able to print timing belts with flexible PLA if you put thin steel cable in it during the print...

0.2mm to small for your nozzle? Bollocks! 0.2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle (Ultimaker default) should be the highest layer I found to be "good" to print at. At 0.3mm layers my layers where not sticking to eachother. And at 0.1mm the prints become pretty. I've printed at 0.05mm layers, but that causes problems with top infills (might need some more configuration settings to fix this)

Cats have a tendency to clean themselfs, so the cat is no longer greasy And yes, the kits still come with grease, but I ran out. (Also because I had to clean cat hairs of just about any part and then I greased those again) I'll see if I can get some silicon oil.

That's one odd curve. I assume this is with the fan off? (fan might be cooling the outside while keeping the inside warmer) But the problem might not be in the probe, it could also be in the sensor board (small board on top of the printer head). But now you know the "error" you could just work around it by using a higher temperature. It should be able to print at 235C.

Less spam? Maybe renaming the "Assembly" forum to "Assembly & Maintenance" (I'm an advocate of less sub-forums instead of more)

Verifying accuracy would be the best first step. Also, verify stability, if there is a lot of fluctuation in the temperature measurement you might have a lose connection somewhere. Another "low budget" way to test the sensor would be ice water and boiling water, which should be 0C and 100C (at sea level, if you are at high elevation this makes boiling temperature a few deg lower)

The makergear nozzles are known to fit, so the brass tube will also fit.

At what layer thickness are you printing? I think (not 100% sure) that thinner layers cause less warping. My valentine dragon did not warp at all: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120211 ... small.jpeg I printed it at 0.1mm layers.

The temperature sensor accuracy is not easy to find out. It could be spot on at 22C, but off by 14C at 200C. There are quite a few factors in play here.

I had to run at at least 210 while using the 5D firmware and early Marlin, but with ErikZalm/Marlin and the new PID(+C) controller I can print at 195, at low speed. I normally print at 230C 80-100mm/s. Which strings quite a bit then.

Auch. Yes, the brass is known to be fragile. But I'm also wondering what you did with the aluminum plate? looks very scratched.

I support whatever the ErikZalm branch supports. Which is commented as a "generic 16x2" LCD and the UltiLCD (which is the advanced control panel with LCD) Not sure if that's the Deuligne or the Snootlab. Most likely, it's this: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface_PCB1.5

Super glue works.

Don't. 250C is "safe" as in that it always prints. But at 250C PLA starts to get really smelly and really soft. When I need fast prints I print at 230C, when I need high detailed small slow prints I print at 200C. Warping should also be less at lower temperatures.

I've seen a 2mm warp up on a 100mm print, which is not that much. And when I print at a lower temperature this gets even better. I do have a very low start Z, it takes a lot of effort to take the parts off the bed then, I need to fix the tape after every print.

Just make everything in 6mm. It looks like there is room for each 4mm part to be 6mm. And there are only a few 4mm parts anyhow.

It can be done. The red was printed on top of the black in 2 goes. I just changed the starting code to have the startZ 7mm higher then normal.

I've had my ultimaker for quite a while now, and it's still printing fine. But I get the feeling that there isn't enough grease on the rods any more. I know for certain that my cat has been sitting in it, and brushed the rods cleaner with his fur. So I'm wondering, is there a special type of grease I should use? (I ran out of the green stuff that came with it)

I've updated my Skeinforge_PyPy to Alpha4. From now on it's called SkeinPyPy. The download URL has been changed to: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads (I figured I better rename this now, when the URL is even more common this will be even harder) The major feature is an Linux and MacOS build for this release. I could not test the MacOS build. And both require python installed on the system. You manually need to start the right python file, as I don't know how to make shortcuts for MacOS, and I didn't add a proper shellscript for Linux. This version is also build with PyPy-1.8 instead of PyPy-1.7, which might give a bit of extra speed in the slicer. Changes are: * Added experimental Linux and MacOS builds (requires python+pyserial on your system) * Updated to only include Skeinforge 48 (latest as of today) * Updated default settings to REALLY have the temperature plugin off. * Defaults are now for PLA. Removed all other profile names, to avoid confusion (new defaults might not be visible if you used Alpha3) * PrintRun now has a "Set Speed" feature, which mimics the direct speed control from RepG. * Fixed print estimate in PrintRun. Plans for Beta1: * Make sure Linux/MacOS works (let me know please!) * [Maybe] add better shortcuts to run it, instead of batch files. * Add firmware update in PrintRun * Add "no infill top" feature and "Joris" plugin for vases.

Almost everything is 6mm... except for the sides of the slider blocks if I remember correctly.

Sweet legs but the image doesn't show. ( http://postimage.org/image/c5siddwgt/ ) Stronger props, just cut down the trees!

I think if you go into preferences and select "Product Design and Woodworking - Millimeters" as your Template it behaves much nicer. I think the initial default uses Meters as the default Unit which is more suitable for Architects designing buildings or landscapes etc. It makes it easier too when typing in values as you do not have to follow your number with "mm" Even with the millimeters "profile" it behaves quite bad at the sub mm level. Sadly enough, as this gives a false sense that it would work.

Yes, sketchup doesn't like mm scale. It's designed for drawing buildings. So the trick is to work at m scale (x1000) and scale it down after you made the STL file.