Daid

Btw, 250mm/s is faster then I can even move the Ultimaker during printing. However, if you are lugging 2.5kg around then I'm wondering about max acceleration you can get. I'm not a mechanical engineer, so if you could do a blog about the math behind the forces on the machine and explain it in a way I would understand, then you would become a hero

What's the use of knowledge if you don't share it? :-) The experimental builds by Bernhard work, but they are a bit outdated. The newer Marlin has a temperature PID, which does an very good job at keeping your temperature stable. Which results in even better prints. There have also been various bug fixes. And Marlin does a great job on the Ultimaker. (RepRap people are less happy with it, as it seems to crash on some versions their hardware ) Most of the effort of Marlin is the hard work of ErikZalm and Bernard tough. The build tool is a result of various problems people had with various builds and various settings. This way you don't need to download the Arduino software yourself, and compile your own firmware, while hacking configuration files. It's part of "making stuff easy to use", which is important IMHO.

Which connector are you looking for Harold? You fixed your PEEK, so what's broken now? The temp sensor connector?

It does not really depend on the machine (well, very old rev machines need a slightly different E value, because they have a different extruder drive bolt) But if the "M92 E14" is needed depends on your Marlin build really. There is a default in the Marlin build, which can be 14, or another value. For example, my build tool, which builds latest and hotest marlin for you, you can configure it: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ And the default is "865.888". ("Steps per unit" under "Hardware") So if you use that default you can change it in the build tool. Or update the NetFabb start code to use M92 E14, which overrides the default in the firmware. Now, why it's E14 always the default? That's because newer versions of Skeinforge, and the brand new Slic3r use a different (smarter) calibration method. Instead of printing a bunch of calibration prints as with netfabb. You actually use 2 values. One is the diameter of your filament (around 2.98mm) and the other is how much step motor steps the extruder needs to take for 1 mm of filament. Take these 2 values, add some math, and you can exactly control the amount of extrusion without calibrating anything else. And calibrating the "steps per E" is also quite easy and doesn't waste filament. This also solves "recalibration" issues when you switch filament, which can be thinner or thicker. The advantage of using M92 in NetFabb is that you can still use Skeinforge/Slic3r next to it. As they will have their own M92, or use the right default value.

Check http://www.thingiverse.com/ it contains loads of models. You might find what you are looking for.

I prefer pronter because it allows you to preview the GCode. And the direct movement controls are relative moves, those in RepG are absolute, which caused me to move a hot printer head into a print once. I like the fact that you can set the baudrate. You can edit GCode in Pronterface, load the GCode file and then use "File -> Edit...", it's a bit more clumsy then RepG. I miss the temperature curve from RepG. I like the fact that you can define custom buttons, and use those during the print. About the crash, I've seen that once myself. But I had loads of problems with RepG not connecting from my laptop at all. It seems the Serial USB drivers from windows are not always that stable.

Looking forward to it. I'm a fan of RepG myself. Just out of curiosity, what makes RepG better for you then other solutions? (Not wanting to force you to use something else. I think more possible software solution are a good thing as you can learn from one another)

Whoho! Will the defaults be right this time? Still, I rather print with Pronterface, but that's just because Pronterface is better at printing.

I heard in the #reprap channel a few days back "While you could build one for less, realistically expect to spend 700$ on a Prusa Mendel." A RepRap is also harder to get going, as there is no "single kit" every machine is a bit different, so there is not a single build guide. There are tons of options. Which can be good or bad, depending on if you want to tinker with your machine or just print stuff with it. As for the UP!, on Thingiverse you sometimes see things made with UP! printers, and I think quality wise they match good ultimaker results. (judging from the photos)

That's one long belt for the Y move. Are you sure that won't cause any problems? The whole thing looks crazy enough that it might even work

If you print was "pretty good" then you don't need the M92 E14. If you would have needed it, then your print would have... not looked at all, because you would have stopped your printer very quickly. The other possible E value is in the 800-1000 range, which is about 60x higher. And that value would have given you 60x to much extrusion.

The M92 E14 tells the printer to have 14 step motor steps per "E" value. The "E" value controls the amount of extrusion. This is needed for the Marlin or Sprinter firmware, which default to a much larger value, causing massive amounts of extrusion if you do not add a M92 E14. It is also possible to make a Marlin Firmware with a default of E14, but that's not what is supplied right now and used by most users. As for your other question. Leave those lines in there. And the "M92 E14" needs to be on a single line. M106 tells your printer to turn the fan on for cooling. M109 sets the temperature, and waits. For a large list of commands: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code (not all these commands are supported, and not all commands are listed)

Auch. Not sure what firmware you are using, but Marlin has protection against disconnection of the sensor board. (I think if the thermocouple disconnect it will continue to heat) Only the peek will be damaged, the thermocouple should be fine I think. Not sure about the specs, but I've seen numbers like 700-1000C

Ok. If you are going to make the jump to Marlin anyhow. Then I recommend this: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/SkeinPyPy (Use the Alpha4, the NewUI_Beta1 contains a bug) It's a faster Skeinforge, preconfigured correctly for the Ultimaker with Marlin. It also contains PrintRun, which is a more stable replacement for ReplicatorG.

I think the biggest problem with acrylic was that is easily cracks right? But it looks bad-ass! Job wel done! Except... the bed is clear normally, and yours is white

Not all programs accept acsii or binary. But most will. If it works, I would use binary, because it greatly reduces file size. (Any tool that doesn't support both is just lazy, because the files are super simple)

(Google+ photos doesn't seem to like hot linking) The stringing is always a bit of a problem, but retraction and proper temperature can solve it. One of your sides shows something which to me looks a bit like a belt tension problem, my companion cube has it even worse, and was printed before I added tensioners to my machine. Could also be strings, not sure, kind hard to see on the photo. And NetFabb has a generates more strings then Skeinforge. What color PLA is that? Is it gold from Faberdashery? Because it looks like a cool color, but even worse for flaws then black PLA.

THE leaking issue? Is this where the head leaks a bit of PLA on the sides? Is your extruder still not moving? Does the generated GCode contain "E" values? Did you install another firmware?

For SF I would adjust the start code, for NetFabb you might be able to do the same. But SF also has the "bottom" plugin which might be able to do something with this. Not sure.

Are you using RepG26 from Ultimaker? In those defaults there is an error and the "Dimension" plugin is disabled, this should be enabled or else it won't print at all.

My clearance is zero. The Z0 should be on the bed, not above it. The first layer is not printed at Z0 but at Z[layer thickness].

Actually, the method for calibrating the E value is putting a line on your bowden tube, move the filament to that spot, ask the printer to move the filament 100mm, and measure the distance it actually moved. Make adjustments, and repeat if required.

Maybe the driver is overheating instead of blocking. If the motor driver overheats it shuts itself off until cooled down. Try to move the printer head around with the direct control window. Just move it around a few large squares of 10x10cm. If that works, move it into the endstops and see if keeps working. Just to diagnose for sure what the problem is. As for the Z axis, it could be a bad solder/jumper problem that we've seen before. See this topic: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=468

For the Ultimaker? No that I know off. But the general RepRap channel works, #reprap on freenode

Some of the photos are of older revision machines. If you come across this it's best to edit the wiki to mark those photos as outdated. Then other people will not run into the same problem.