Daid

SkeinPyPy is 4-5x faster then Skeinforge. It has a much simpler GUI (even simpler then KISSlicer I think) and the defaults produce really good prints on the Ultimaker. SkeinPyPy also helps you in upgrading your firmware to Marlin, checking your machine, and calibrating the "M92 Exxx" value (steps per E) Comparison would be really good! SkeinPyPy also has a few tweaks on top of Skeinforge, which should produce better prints then possible with Skeinforge. SkeinPyPy looks like: Instead of "number of lines" and "line width" you configure the "wall thickness", which makes more sense really, but can confuse people that are used to the "old" way of configuring things. As I'm not working on the Slicer itself, but on the GUI, I try to improve usability with each version. The plan is that Slic3r could also be used as a backend. And other slicers that provide a "command line" interface. But currently it only slices with it's special SkeinPyPy backend (based on Skeinforge) I also did a slice speed compared to Slic3r. Which is always faster, but not by a huge leap if the model gets complex: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/wiki/Speed-comparison (done with the same settings where possible).

Did i ask for help? Nope i asked if anyone had a working Ultimaker.If you would have spend a few minutes on your own looking if people have a working Ultimaker then you would have known many people have working Ultimakers.Yes, there are trouble cases, which we try to help here. You have to many problems to list? Sounds like you have no idea what's wrong then. Because there are 3 distinct problems covering 99% of the cases: 1) Software issues (solved by just using SkeinPyPy IMHO) 2) Extruder issues (a few different causes, but not that hard to diagnose) 3) Motor issues (needs adjusting in the pololu drivers) But you don't want a working machine. You just want to bitch. And clearly didn't investigate what you bought before you bought it.

Best way to get help in diagnosing the problem is to get people to read your mind. Could you sit still in front of your machine for a while while I tune in on your brain frequency?

The GUI looks like someone puked blue on your screen But seeing the slice path results, I see some very distinct differences between Slic3r Skeinforge and KISSlicer. Which could provide some better results on thin parts. Closed source is a big downer for me. I'll stick with SkeinPyPy (for obvious reasons)

Printing ABS.A heated platform helps to stick the first layer down, it prevents warping, and makes it easier to remove large objects from the bed (after cooling down, print pops off) I'm renovating my bathroom at the moment. And while I was taking down the tiles, I was wondering. Could ceramic tiles be used as heated platform. I did some searching, but didn't find a lot about it. Ceramic should be stable at higher temperatures (no bending), but not sure how thermo-conductive it is.

Thanks to some donations on SkeinPyPy, and the excellent service of Faberdashery. I now have almost every color available in PLA. (Except gold and galaxy blue) I haven't printed in every color yet. But I was wondering what peoples favorite colors are. I haven't tried printing in crystal clear, and I'm really wondering how that will look. I have printed in glowbug yellow (glow-in-the-dark) and that's really an awesome color to use. A bit more expensive, and almost always out of stock. But awesome. I only managed to get 20m of it. And only printed a glow-in-the-dark yoda so far. It's impossible to photograph the glow effect for me. But it's still awesome, I really recommend you get some. Other then that, I like my roll of red a lot more then my roll of black. Because the final result is less shiny, making print faults less obvious.

For the roofs, print those flat, then support the edges and heat up the whole part, so it slacks down. And a curved roof you have! Or add support beams in just the roof, still printed as a 2nd part. The rest is no problem really. Should print with ease.

You don't read the forum a lot do you? Because this and the large ultimaker both already have a topic.

It's a setting that slows down the print if the layers are small, so the layers get more time to cool. You set a minimum time for each layer, if the layer takes less time then the configured time then it's slowed down so it takes the right amount of time.All fine, until you get really small layers, at which the speed is so slow that the head from the printer head melts the lower layers, and the oozing from the printer head causes blobs. It's very noticeable on a tower top, where the last few layers are just a few mm of extrusion in total.

I'm not sure which settings cause it, but Skeinforge can put an M104 S0 somewhere at the start, this disables the heater at the start. Which is quite bad. Printing PLA at 250C is a bit high, when I tried 250C it started to smell pretty bad. At 230C PLA flows like crazy, and at 190C you can print. So depending on the speed you want to print you can use anything in between. People say that SkeinPyPy is pretty good: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads (And I'm not just saying that because I made it ) SkeinPyPy assists you in upgrading to Marlin, which gives better print results. And all the defaults are fine and safe so you can start printing without any configuration tinkering really. There is a bug in the Beta4, during the "First run wizard" in the final step, the heatup button does not work (Known and fixed for the next version)

Feels like a wrong setting in Skeinforge, I've seen it do the same. Check if the Temperature plugin is enabled, and if it is, disable it. But your printer is working. That's good. Maybe you can upgrade to SkeinPyPy: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads It gives better print results, and the defaults are just right. Also, printing PLA at 250C is a bit overkill. 230C is more then enough. PLA is even printable at 190C (but slower)

Value headquarters building. (not really, but they should do that!) Seeker, that looks like a "cool plugin messed up my print" issue. I just added a minimal feedrate setting to SkeinPyPy in an attempt to prevent this.

Orders also include shipments of broken parts and orders of just filament. So your estimate might be off. Also, a single order can contain multiple machines. How many are they selling, we can only guess.

First you need to press "connect" The temperature needs to be set below the big circle. Next to the "Heater:" text. The "set" button is next to it. Finally you should press print. 5 hours sounds reasonable for that size with the default settings. However, don't feel shamed to set the speed to 150% or even 200% to test. Because the default speed setting in SkeinPyPy is quite conservative. You can play with the speed setting (adjust the speed % and press "set speed") during printing. (The filament estimation of 3.5mm is always wrong btw, it always says 3.5mm)

In step 5 you should export it as STL. This is the file format expected by SkeinPyPy. If you use SkeinPyPy you also don't need step 6 (installing python) You are almost there. You would need: 5. Export as STL. 6. Install SkeinPyPy 7. Run "SkeinPyPy.bat" (follow the "first run wizard") 8. Load the exported STL file 9. Press "slice to GCode" 10. Open "PrintRun.bat" which comes with SkeinPyPy 11. Press Connect 12. Load the GCode file (it's at the same location as your STL file) 13. Set the temperature to 230C in PrintRun, and press the "set" button next to it 14. Enable the "monitor printer" checkbox in the top right corner, so you can see the temperature 15. Wait till the temperature reaches 230C 16. Disable the "monitor printer" checkbox (improves your print quality) 17. Press "print" Looks like a lot of steps, but I added every single step you'll need to do.

The heater test assumes your machine is cooled down before the test. (I should check that before the test! One more thing to fix) What it does it sets the heater to 100C, and checks if the temperature has increased at least 15C in 25 seconds. The extruder calibration was bugged in Beta3, but should work fine in Beta4. If it's not extruding, then you might have a problem with your machine, not with the software. Also the "Failed to set temperature" error is pretty serious, it indicates an communication error.

I used some "universal machine oil" on my rods yesterday, it moves a lot smoother now. It is a bit tricky to apply, as it can drip to your wooden parts.

Maybe your extruder motor driver is overheating. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers Did you calibrate NetFabb?

Dump ReplicatorG. Seriously. It's just junk. Even the UM team think so, and the only reason they used it is because there wasn't anything better. I just released SkeinPyPy Beta4: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads It's faster, better, and easier to use then ReplicatorG. It's also more stable. It also doesn't ask you to install anything else, because it comes with everything needed. (For Windows) For printing it uses Pronterface(PrintRun), which is a lot better then ReplicatorG.

Ah, the inner circle escapes problem. Printing slower really helps in this case. Also, a proper feedrate, you might have a bit of under-extrusion. If I look at those walls they are not connecting to the infill very well.

Meshlab can try to fix the model for you. Skeinforge will throw a lot of fuss at you for having a model with holes, but still will try to slice it. Results may vary. SkeinPyPy might help you to identify the holes with the X-Ray feature. 3D studio max has a "STL check" modifier, which shows a lot of problems, including holes, double faces. But not intersecting faces, which are also a problem. ReplicatorG... won't do you any good. And I don't think any software allows you to split up a single model into multiple prints right now. You'll have to do that manually.

I haven't measured it. But all the indications I have it's spot on. At 170C PLA gets soft, at 190C it's printable and at 250C it flows like crazy. I should do the boil&freeze test, but for that I have to disassemble a part of my printer, which I don't feel like doing right now (so much else to do)

Yes, more support parameters was also requested by other people. I'm not sure what the "Support_Flow_Rate_over_Operating_Flow_Rate (ratio)" and "Support_Gap_over_Perimeter_Extrusion_Width (ratio)" actually DO. And if any more more parameters effect the support in Skeinforge...

Material: Black/Red from Ultimaker Temperature: 190 Speed: 50mm/s Layer height: 0.1 Fill-rate: 20% Slicer: SkeinPyPy (Duh!) Firmware: Marlin Output quality: Still strings (no reversal) but strings a lot less then at 230C with 100mm/s

How about printing with a raft?