Daid

Sure. I can give you the right to re-license those parts if you want. It's not that special, and I hold the sole copyright on those bits.

Yes.

Actually, "fix horrible type A" is most likely detecting that the normals of the cube are in the same direction as the normals in the pikachu, at which point it fills them both. Disabling fix-horrible type A will not do this.

So can steel. Important bit of information is what strength laser you would need.

Love how you talk in plural there, while this pretty much boils down to. Me. Another good example would be the removal of the slice button (which was almost a year ago). Lots of people complained about that at that point. Right now, everyone seems to have accepted it. By vote, it should have returned. But my vision (aka, as my thick skull) kept the slice button out of Cura.

Actually, the problem is a complex combination of older "combing" code, with a bug in the Clipper library. The end result was the "unaligned" layers that we had a month and a half ago. So I fixed that, which introduced this new problem. Which I did my best of implementing just exactly the above (only combine if the distance is short). I'm using 0.5mm right now, as you can see here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/polygonOptimizer.cpp#L16

These where milled. With the T-Slots only half deep, so it looks awesome like the UM2. And the platform is crazy sturdy. No idea about water jet cutting. I think the normal way is milling. After all, it sort of is wood.

The new GUI I'm working on has a deep down configuration window for selecting which settings you want to see. This enables you to make a super-expert-mode.

Interesting... what would be the cost for a 1000 pieces for the UM2? (Ok, just kidding... for now)

Uhm, no, not really. Guess it's the indoor stuff. (We have 4 of these at the office, they work awesome. But they are very heavy compared to normal originals. And we're not actually allowed to show them to prevent false expectations)

I'm not in favor of a voting system. With a voting system people will assume that the highest voted requests gets done. And there is a whole range of things that I need to judge a request on. One of the important ones is "effort vs reward". Another one is "will this make the UI more complex?"

Trespa. It looks great, very sturdy. Disadvantage is that it is quite heavy, and that it will wear your milling bits. No idea on the availability.

Actually, buy buying an Ultimaker you pay a tiny bit towards Cura. So that statement does not hold for a 100%. However, some people seem to assume that because they got the software, and they are using it, they can dictate how development on it should go. This is not the case.

Also, this. Fixing the extrusion problems that we have will most likely also fix problems for dual-extrusion. So that's what we are focusing on, fixing the current issues first. (And it is the alu plates that are conducting heat. They are acting as radiators, and when there are 2 hot hotends in there they have to radiate for both, which they cannot handle)

I both work for Ultimaker and am a community member. And actually one of the oldest community members around. I started on Cura in my free time, and finally Ultimaker hired me to continue development and assist in other Ultimaker development. I'm still running the whole Cura project on my own. And, you addressed me by my name, which assumes the knowledge of the above. You do a personal request and expect an corporate response. That's not how I roll.

Note, "plater" is also a tool by Kliment for manual making plates. Also, if you copied parts from Cura, you cannot re-licence it under CC-by-NC, as AGPL and CC-by-NC are incompatible with each-other. Other then that, cool stuff! Curious how you solved certain problems, might dive into the code later on =)

The problems we are facing for dual-extrusion UM2 are mechanical right now, not software. Due to a mis-calculation the teflon gets too hot with 2 hotends in there.

In frame vs box, the box wins. The upward frame of the K8200 will have significant wobble at higher layers. And the K8200 has a moving bed, which means your print moves, this also negatively impacts print quality. And wood is actually a pretty good material, only "bad" thing about wood is that it can warp, which it cannot in the UM design due to the box construction. Also, software. Check it out. It's usually forgotten to check how well the software support is and how well the software manual is.

First layers are printed slower, making it easier to extrude. There was another topic recently about "Cura not extruding enough", the end result was that it was related to the ColorFabb TX material. You might want to look that up.

I have some experience in building the UM2. First off, the dibond. Forget about it. Use something else. It's actually not great to work with, hard to get, scratches easy during assembly, and expensive. As for the electronics, any RepRap electronics will work. We're not selling lose boards yet, as it's hard to keep up with production on those just for the UM2. You might want to do some modifications for the LCD controller, as the OLED display is one of the most difficult parts to source (we had to buy a whole lot of them at once) The electronics from RepRapDiscount could be used for example, he sells both main boards and controllers.

You addressed me. Not Ultimaker. And I'm not pretending to be a nice person. In general, I respond quick, fast and short. As I get quite a few questions and requests per day.

Shapeways has silver and gold. Bit more expensive, but I think still a lot cheaper then custom wedding rings.

3D Systems is known for "by mistake" putting the wrong prints with their printers. (SLS prints sitting next to FDM machines) So I wouldn't trust anything they say about their machine, and wait for user experiences. I talked to a few CubeX users, and they where not that impressed with the results. Their material is also ridiculously expensive. Only Fabbster does worse.

Actually, the safety circuit also handles this, once you remove a connection it will no longer turn the 24V power on until you switch all power off.

One at a time printing with RC3 is broken with more then 1 object.