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Everything posted by mastory

  1. Before I upgraded my stepper drivers on my UMO, I added some rubber feet made from automotive heater hose. It was what I has on hand and it made the printer much quieter. A difference in print quality was not noticed. I printed some simple cylinders with a through hole for mounting. The OD is a slight press fit for 1 inch hose. Screwed them to the bottom. Pushed on 4 pieces of hose somewhat longer than the spacers.
  2. I tried to register. Still no pin in the map. Have any of the participants been contacted for assistance?
  3. I filled out the form, but see nothing added to the map. Is this because I am an individual, or a glitch in the form automation? I have 2 Ultimakers that can be available. One is dedicated to ABS, the other flexible for many types. I have ample stock in ABS ans PLA on hand.
  4. There are actually quite a few ways to create an stl from a topo map. This site works ok, but the cropping and manipulation of the map pre download is awkward and kind of imprecise in my opinion. No control over the aspect ratio. http://jthatch.com/Terrain2STL/ This site works good. I think it's been tweaked for the good since my last attempt. https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/ I am importing the gray scales into Cura 4.3.0 and using the import utility to generate the STL. I am not sure where I got the map I am currently using. Maybe from Google. The map
  5. I figured it out. Select the model you want to use as a subtract solid. Set the "modify settings for overlapping models" for this solid. Then pick "select settings". You can then set whatever slice settings you want for this piece. If you set wall thickness, top/bottom and infill to 0, the piece will be regarded as a subtract from the other models.
  6. Thanks for your thoughts Geert. I have created empty voids by subtraction in CAD, but never by placing an STL inside another. What I'm referring to is actually very similar to the support blocker function. Although I don't know if the support blockers are made up of STL files.. Those can be partially interfering a support and/or the printed model. Any portion that interferes the model is ignored, but the interfered support is effectively cut away. I can tell you that I've done the practice in question in the past few months. I just don't remember the exact steps.
  7. I did this once before. There is a way to "modify settings for overlap with other models" and/or "modify settings for infill of other models" (in per model settings) that results in one of the models (overlapping the other) having basically 0 wall, 0 infill and 0 skin, and effectively performing a boolean subtract within the slicer. Can someone remind me of the specifics of this method? Thanks
  8. Is there a change log for the new version?
  9. I see that the part wall there is actually triangular when viewed top down sectioned through that area. If I change my normal .8mm wall size to.6, the surface is filled in. If it doesn't affect function, I'd prefer to keep the thicker wall. I am printing this in ABS on my UMO. The only nozzle available for my UMO currently is a .9mm. Not sure how well that would print at .6mm.
  10. I am seeing an anomaly in the way Cura is slicing the clamping dock. Will this open hole in the planar face of the cone feature have any effect on docking function? Thanks
  11. Nice work Snowball. Tell us which scanner and software you used to achieve these great results.
  12. I finally picked up a second hand UM2+E to add Mark2. I have a few questions as I get started. Does anyone have any good or bad experience with using Makergeeks Raptor PLA for the printed pieces? I happen to have a roll of it. Same question goes for ABS. Thanks
  13. I think small text and icons are programmed by younger programmers with good eyes. They can't realize that the small details are hard to see even with average less than perfect middle age eyes. As for the new layout, I think people are making more out it than its worth. I do prefer the earlier more spacious work area. What I would like to see is for the settings menu to be floating, dockable and resizable. This would allow moving it to the other monitor for even more workspace. I might turn my side monitor to portrait mode, and stretch the menu down the page to see much more w
  14. @Reywas, I'm not prone to strike an argument with gr5. There's likely more to the issue that I don't see and George is vastly more informed. I defer to him. That said, I checked my start gcode and initial layer gcode to see what is happening. On my machine, the start code zeros the X & Y, then Z, and other unrelated stuff. In the lines that begin the first layer, my build platform positions the bed at 0.2mm (my 'initial layer height') down from the start position, further, not closer to the nozzle. @gr5, During a homing routine, does the firmware jog the bed do
  15. I can see where this could be confusing at first. The zero position for Z is with the nozzle above the build surface by some distance, often a thickness of paper. The Initial layer height is referring to the actual thickness that the printer is trying to print in the first layer - not the Z position. A good practice for strong adhesion to the build surface is to print a little more material than the actual gap from the nozzle to the bed. In your numbers above, your printer should extrude enough material in the first layer to a achieve a .3mm layer, however there is only .25mm of
  16. If the design allows, you might try making a continuous layer of TPU every X number of layers to tie the islands of TPU together and encourage bonding with the ABS.
  17. The problem is with the file export process. I am a solidworks and NX user. In both programs, there are settings to control the output of STL files when a model is 'saved-as'. I suspect there are also such settings in solid edge. Even when you save a mode with higher resolution, the model will be reduced to triangles, they will just be much smaller. Look for these settings in your save dialogue.
  18. I am wondering what you may have learned in this pursuit. I didn't notice when you originally posted. I can't answer your questions 1 & 2. The parts I print are typically structural working prototypes or final use parts in natural ABS. Usually parts are geometric enough that I can find creative ways to cut them into pieces with CAD before printing and bond them together post printing with acetone. I this way, I avoid alot of bridges. Occasionally on horizontal (planar) overhangs, I have had success printing a med or low density support, with a high density,
  19. Theres no sub topic for Youmagine here. Every design I click on in Youmagine brings up a security warning. Warning says the site is configured wrongly and warns that user info could be stolen. Is it actually unsafe? Looks like an expired certificate. I am using a recent copy of Firefox
  20. Does the pending version allow turning off perspective to aid visualization of mechanical prints? I run into this limitation constantly. I want to look at straight on elevation views or plan views without the distortion of perspective. This is a standard feature in engineering CAD software.
  21. On the early UMO's, I don't think there was a teflon coupler. The Bowden had to be cut very accurately and the end of the tube was jammed down against the brass tube that passed from the nozzle thru the heater block and into the PEEK insulator. Heat migration up the brass tube would cause deformation of the end of the bowden, and cause a bottleneck for feeding filament. Also the brass tube tended to have a very long melt zone which was prone to clogging. Do not leave your machine with the hot end at printing temp for more than a few minutes when not printing. Another problem was retaining
  22. I like the idea. A skin layer immediately over infill could be regarded as if it were a bridge layer. To insure a smooth top with ABS, I have been printing a minimum of 6 top layers
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