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Everything posted by mastory

  1. Is there a change log for the new version?
  2. I see that the part wall there is actually triangular when viewed top down sectioned through that area. If I change my normal .8mm wall size to.6, the surface is filled in. If it doesn't affect function, I'd prefer to keep the thicker wall. I am printing this in ABS on my UMO. The only nozzle available for my UMO currently is a .9mm. Not sure how well that would print at .6mm.
  3. I am seeing an anomaly in the way Cura is slicing the clamping dock. Will this open hole in the planar face of the cone feature have any effect on docking function? Thanks
  4. Nice work Snowball. Tell us which scanner and software you used to achieve these great results.
  5. I finally picked up a second hand UM2+E to add Mark2. I have a few questions as I get started. Does anyone have any good or bad experience with using Makergeeks Raptor PLA for the printed pieces? I happen to have a roll of it. Same question goes for ABS. Thanks
  6. I think small text and icons are programmed by younger programmers with good eyes. They can't realize that the small details are hard to see even with average less than perfect middle age eyes. As for the new layout, I think people are making more out it than its worth. I do prefer the earlier more spacious work area. What I would like to see is for the settings menu to be floating, dockable and resizable. This would allow moving it to the other monitor for even more workspace. I might turn my side monitor to portrait mode, and stretch the menu down the page to see much more without scrolling. Much more beneficial to me would be the capability to turn off perspective in the model view. I think this would be widely appreciated if it were implemented.
  7. @Reywas, I'm not prone to strike an argument with gr5. There's likely more to the issue that I don't see and George is vastly more informed. I defer to him. That said, I checked my start gcode and initial layer gcode to see what is happening. On my machine, the start code zeros the X & Y, then Z, and other unrelated stuff. In the lines that begin the first layer, my build platform positions the bed at 0.2mm (my 'initial layer height') down from the start position, further, not closer to the nozzle. @gr5, During a homing routine, does the firmware jog the bed downward X distance after seeing the Z switch, attempting to offset from the switch position so the nozzle approximately touches the glass - supporting your explanation. From my maybe related and maybe irrelevant experience with production machinery, it is common to 'zero' mechanisms to a switch or prox. That precise position is then referred to as zero. Sorry to confuse Reywas
  8. I can see where this could be confusing at first. The zero position for Z is with the nozzle above the build surface by some distance, often a thickness of paper. The Initial layer height is referring to the actual thickness that the printer is trying to print in the first layer - not the Z position. A good practice for strong adhesion to the build surface is to print a little more material than the actual gap from the nozzle to the bed. In your numbers above, your printer should extrude enough material in the first layer to a achieve a .3mm layer, however there is only .25mm of space. This will result in the material being slightly smashed into the printer bed promoting good adhesion. On materials that resist sticking to the build plate, it can be helpful to over extrude even more than in your example numbers. On lots of printers, you can manually adjust the Z position at early moments of the first layer to get the distance just right. Not sure about your printer, but I don't hesitate to give the Z screw a twist (by hand, over-driving the stepper by a few poles) at the very beginning of a print to get the distance just right.
  9. If the design allows, you might try making a continuous layer of TPU every X number of layers to tie the islands of TPU together and encourage bonding with the ABS.
  10. The problem is with the file export process. I am a solidworks and NX user. In both programs, there are settings to control the output of STL files when a model is 'saved-as'. I suspect there are also such settings in solid edge. Even when you save a mode with higher resolution, the model will be reduced to triangles, they will just be much smaller. Look for these settings in your save dialogue.
  11. I am wondering what you may have learned in this pursuit. I didn't notice when you originally posted. I can't answer your questions 1 & 2. The parts I print are typically structural working prototypes or final use parts in natural ABS. Usually parts are geometric enough that I can find creative ways to cut them into pieces with CAD before printing and bond them together post printing with acetone. I this way, I avoid alot of bridges. Occasionally on horizontal (planar) overhangs, I have had success printing a med or low density support, with a high density, but under-extruded support interface, a support horizontal expansion, and a one layer Z gap. Printing this way without any bridge settings activated has allowed the support to break loose without high difficulty, leaving a rough but consistent overhang. I should play around with the bridge settings in this scenario to see if any advantages can be gained, maybe forego the gap layer. I'm not sure all the bridge settings were available when was initially figuring out how to print this type of part/material. If I pursue unsupported bridging with ABS, I would try a combination of the following (my conjecture based on experience printing ABS, not necessarily bridging); Turn off the fan. I never use fan (don't have one) with ABS, but watch that layer times don't get too short Under-extrude by 50% or more. Set bridge speeds high. Consider the stringing that happens in travel moves w/o retraction. I think you want to go fast enough that the line can't solidify (stays elastic) until the nozzle finishes the span. Maybe use TweakAtZ to bump the temp a few deg for the bridge layer(s). Probably difficult to control and maybe has to be done in advance of the bridge layer. Bridge wall coasting seems like a good idea Try multiple bridge layers
  12. Theres no sub topic for Youmagine here. Every design I click on in Youmagine brings up a security warning. Warning says the site is configured wrongly and warns that user info could be stolen. Is it actually unsafe? Looks like an expired certificate. I am using a recent copy of Firefox
  13. Does the pending version allow turning off perspective to aid visualization of mechanical prints? I run into this limitation constantly. I want to look at straight on elevation views or plan views without the distortion of perspective. This is a standard feature in engineering CAD software.
  14. On the early UMO's, I don't think there was a teflon coupler. The Bowden had to be cut very accurately and the end of the tube was jammed down against the brass tube that passed from the nozzle thru the heater block and into the PEEK insulator. Heat migration up the brass tube would cause deformation of the end of the bowden, and cause a bottleneck for feeding filament. Also the brass tube tended to have a very long melt zone which was prone to clogging. Do not leave your machine with the hot end at printing temp for more than a few minutes when not printing. Another problem was retaining the end of the bowden against the hot end. The extrusion forces will tend to pop the bowden out of the hot end. Once it pops a couple times, the retainer clip will not bite into the bowden well and the bowden will need shortening to grip. There are a couple printable user developed add-ons that remedy this. Owens bowden clamp is one My recommendation is to upgrade both the hot end and the feeder to something aftermarket. I found the original hardware for the filament delivery to be problematic and unreliable. After cleaning my nozzle out 3-4 times, replacing it once, I upgraded the nozzle. This is exacerbated by the fact that the hot end is not easy to disassemble and reassemble. Personally, I went with a Geohagan extruder (outdated or hard to find parts for now) and a home built hot end. There are much better and inexpensive options out there today. You will probably need to alter your firmware and possibly machine wiring for a different hot end.
  15. I like the idea. A skin layer immediately over infill could be regarded as if it were a bridge layer. To insure a smooth top with ABS, I have been printing a minimum of 6 top layers
  16. Found it. Settings / Printer / Manage Printer / General / Automatically drop models to build plate I see you responded as I was typing Smithy. Thanks
  17. Normally the model snapping to the build plate is a good thing. I found a case where I want to suspend a item above the build plate for cooling purposes, and only print support in this area for most of the print. How do I turn off the function of the model auto snapping to the build plate in CURA? I have seen the option before, just can't find it. I am running 3.4.1 atm. Thanks
  18. Personally speaking, I don't consider backward compatibility of profiles to be an issue. At some point we as users have to understand and accept that the development direction is forward. Should I expect that a profile made in 3.6, with many more and different options, should work within 3.4 or 3.1. Where should we draw the line? If we happen to be lucky and it does work then great, but zero reverse compatibility is acceptable to me. Mainstream software developers are not concerned in the least with backward compatibility. That's why there are newer and hopefully better versions constantly coming. Issues with forward compatibility are more legitimate, but even then sometimes the road forward must sacrifice some functionality in the name of progress. Don't forget this software is free for the asking as a great value added if you happen to be a UM buyer.
  19. Back a page or so I asked about upgrading to the latest version and establish a clean install without the influence of my previous version. The answer seemed pretty simple, move or rename a folder in the previous version for a clean install. Nallath's last post makes me wonder how far back I need to go with moving/ranaming settings folders. I currently have several versions installed. Does the install routine look for settings in any of "X-range" of versions before conducting the upgrade? Do I need to do more than disturb the order of my most recent install to get an unmolested 3.6? Thanks for the great work you're doing!
  20. I am still running my UMO. It has been very reliable for quite a while. I have made a lot of improvements to get there. an Ulticontroller or equivalent is a must have. For me, the first upgrade I needed to make, and the most beneficial was replacing the hot end. Mine originally was an early version that had a threaded brass tube, the bowden had to be cut just right to create a seal and the brass tube was very prone to clogging. My solution was a home built hot end that requires special parts or a lathe. Today, I would replace with one of the several commercially available that offer nozzle exchanging. The second thing I did was replace the extruder drive. The original was temperamental keeping the proper tension, prone to clogging and stripping the filament with high retraction counts. My solution was the Geo Hagen extruder which may still be viable with some self sourced parts. Very happy with it, but again, if I were to do it today I would look to one of the many commercial extruder drives. To get the Z level to be repeatable in squareness and position I did a couple things. First was to mount the Z home switch on a threaded adjustable mount so the switch can be shifted with the turn of a single screw like this one. Next I made a very effective improvement to the Z stage by using an UM2 metal platform. It drops in pretty easy with the same shaft centers as the UMO, and fits the same guide shafts. You also have to supply new bearings of a different type and adapt your Z nut. This change removed much of the variability of the Z stage height due to the wooden platform flexing causing near constant re-leveling and Z switch fiddling. Lastly, I self sourced a heated bed. Mine is constructed with 1/4" MIC6 aluminum plate which is very flat. It's controlled with the UMO 1.5.7 bed outputs triggering an SSR relay, switching 120VAC and 250W silicone heater. I clip normal window pane glass on top to print on. It is very cheap allowing multiple spares. If they fail I just replace for a few $. I found the thickness very constant, not affecting Z height when changing. Using hair spray and printing ABS, a large print can easily pull the glass surface away. Each piece can be used until both surfaces are chipped. If your patient for the cooling, the parts usually pop off with no trouble. A simple thing to keep in mind on all print bed upgrades, always defer to 3 point leveling systems over 4 point.
  21. Can I install a newer version than my current (3.4.1) which would be fresh from any influence from previous installed versions? Might be a good time to go back to default settings, attempt to apply the material templates as they are intended, and sort of purge all the settings changes that I have accumulated over the past couple years.
  22. My limited experience printing nylon has shown me the paramount importance of keeping nylon in a dry condition - to a greater extent than other materials. Does Xstrand retain this requirement? What are the storage requirements with xstrand to achieve reliable print results? Is there a recommended procedure to keep opened filament dry? A procedure to dry out material that has been compromised by environmental exposure? Where are some pictures of some xstrand printed parts? Is xstrand resistant to gasoline and/or mineral oils? Recommended printing temperature and cooling settings? Nozzle, bed and chamber temps? Does a heated chamber help or hurt? Thanks
  23. If your models are so close in size/fit, that the slicer combines them, I doubt that any common printer will print accurately enough to get a result with separate bodies, even if the slicer recognized the boundary surfaces. Can you live with a little more clearance?
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