SandervG
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Posts posted by SandervG
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Ok, then I will get some WD40. But wait a second. Is this the stuff we are talking about? (link)
If yes, as I am from Europe, like you - how would I get it? I am sure there are other brands and WD40 is just a famous brand name that is used as a synonym.
For example, this is a dutch link
I am sure you have them for each country.
I tried sewing machine oil as well, but that DID affect adhesion, especially on the bed.
With WD-40 I did not have this effect, besides deduction from friction it didn't have any side-effects, which is what you want. Also, I must add; a small spray is easier to dose then a squirt of oil.
Hey Sander, I had considered lubing the tube with inox (similar to WD40) but was worried about a few things... burn off smell, whether or not it would affect layer adhesion etc, but also, if it would casue the feeder to have trouble gripping the material, as innevitably, the lube will end up transfering back to the feeder also.
When I used sewing machine oil, it created a bit of smoke at first and later I really had trouble with adhesion to the bed.
WD-40 didn't give me these results.
Maybe these are not facts, but they are my experience.
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My experience is that it prints better at higher temps, I use 230°C, with 0.4 layer height and 0.8 nozzle.
at lower temps it works the first few layers, but after a few layers it starts to go bad.
I will try that.
I haven't yet been very successful.
Also haven't had a lot of time yet to try and in that short period of time mainly focused on the recommended settings (low temp). (except .8 nozzle, I want it to run on regular .4)
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Besides PM I can also read the actual forum
What is your current status for your Ultimaker?
Are you looking for a new laser pack to replace the one you have now?
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Sander, thanks for joining in. This issue is really troublesome for me because I can't print anything big or fast(er). Yesterday an easy print which was at 4mm^3/s filament volume failed due to skipping. And there are a few other users with the same problem.
You are right. It looks like the problem lies with the curvature of filament. I tried almost all orientations I can think of. The only one which produced good results was cut filemtent, straightened by hand and hold in hand the whole time. Clearly not the solution I am aiming for. Besides, Simon (and others) are able to use the stock filament spool holder without problems. And they also used Ultimaker filament (and I guess no WD40 spray).
Sadly I don't have faberdasherry filament here, just tons of Ultimaker filament
And again, I am sure the filament is perfectly fine, and not the reason for my problems.True, but if you could test it and it turned out to be the solution we then know what is going on and focus on how to solve it.
As of right now we are still guessing for what the problem is.
Hopefully your todo list will shine some more light on it.
(I don't think it is temperature related).
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Well, those are a few hours well spend.
I read the entire 13 pages and wrote down some of my thoughts.
I am sure most of them were already thought of, but I didn't really read any reason for it not to be true, or at least a hint towards a solution.
What I think is of a great influence is the natural curl of the filament.
I think the extruder has sufficient power to pull the filament in (but it is far from being 'overpowered')
but it is struggling pushing it through the bowden tube.
Simon also said it needs to make an 180° turn, and when it is inserted the other way around that can cause quite some friction inside the bowden tube.
Have you tried inserting a small spray of WD40 in the bowden tube?
From my experience this has never influenced the print, in a way that the oil may be visible on your print.
For this same reason I have doubts with lazy susan, at least when it is lying behind your UM on the table, it will be inserted with an 90° angle. (first it is horizontal, and it needs to go vertical).
I also thought perhaps you could try faberdasherry filament. It doesn't come on a reel, so it has less of a curl.
Besides that, I know the quality is good.
With the temperatures, I double checked and R&D told me that the 190-260 filaments can actually go up to that temp when you are printing fast (150mm/s fast). And I believe Stefan that is also what you experienced? Better results with a significantly higher temp?
Stefan, what is your current status of the set screw in your teethed gear?
And did you try to push some fresh filament (that didn't go through the feeder yet) through the teflon when you had it out? You should have 0 (!!) friction.
Looking forward to hear about your findings.
I am now 100% up to date about this topic and will be more involved
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awwww a shame.
Michiel is going to talk about his project egg, which should be very interesting!
Jammer ook als jullie er niet bij kan zijn Harold & Kees, ik denk dat het wel interessant zal zijn!
Op zijn allerminst een gezellige avond
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ahh ha !! so thats where all the amazing zbrush models are going to come from !!... :wink:
Ian :smile:
I hope so! :grin:
And all those cabinets underneath the printer will be filled with awesome characters!
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Exactly, that is why I have the Ultimaker 2 downstairs, and my original (which also looks hacked) is upstairs
- I mean, my Ultimaker Original is also rather reliable, but if I had to chose I think the Ultimaker 2 is more of an asset to a/the/mine living room
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I wanted to show my happy Ultimaker corner for a while, but never thought of making a picture when I was actually at home. Until yesterday! :shock:
So here is my happy Ultimaker corner, it is basically in the middle of my living-room, because it is quiet that is OK.
If it weren't for the lights I would occasionally forget it is printing when the TV is on.
Unfortunately, the picture came out a bit dark so I hard to edit the contrast a little bit.
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Are you sure you installed firmware for Ultimaker Original and not Ultimaker 2?
To be sure I would recommend to re-install the firmware for Ultimaker Original and see if that makes any change.
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Hi Brian,
Thank you for your post.
I am very sorry to hear you are experiencing this level of frustration.
I can imagine that with 12hours into a build it is frustration to find out not all parts are included.
We check every Ultimaker Kit very strict to make sure all parts are present, but unfortunately with an item that
holds so many parts, on occasion it does happen that 1 part is missing.
In the end it is still checked by a human being.
Luckily we have our support department to be there and help our customers and users.
In our communication system I see you have contacted us on 01/13/14 in the evening (at least, it was evening here in NL) and Simone got back at you the very next morning.
She also immediately created a support order so your missing bowden tube would be send to you asap.
Now this part of the process could have gone down a little bit faster because your support order was not send out until after a couple of days. I am not yet sure why but I will look into it.
I just want to apologize for the delay of these couple of days but I am happy to inform you that your bowden tube is on its way and should arrive at your doorstep within another couple of days.
I hope your frustrated feeling will fade away when you can continue your build again and you can finally start your first 3D print.
If you have any further questions down the road during the build or afterwards, please feel free to ask.
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Yes, that is what I am going to suggest.
I just double checkend and fixing will probably not be possible.
The next thing is a replacement.
We can either send you a new electronics board and knob so you can replace those.
Keep in mind that replacing this electronics board can be tricky because of the display that is connected and
the fat cables that have a tight fit within the cover.
However, with some love and fiddeling I am sure it can be done
The alternative would be that we replace your Ultimaker 2 with a new one.
We can have it picked up, and once we have it back we will send you a new one the next day.
It will be a few days longer then the electronics board, but it will save you the hassle of replacing the electronics.
Let me know what you prefer and we can set the wheels in motion
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Hi Tor,
I took the liberty of moving your post to a different one, as it did not concern the lead time.
(to keep things clear for future uses it is important to put it in the right section).
I am not sure how easy it is to repair it yourself, I will look into it and get back with you! Thank you!
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You can also check if both cables are still inserted in the back of your printhead?
And if that is the case, have you made any modifications to the electronics or something downstairs?
If you remove the cover, can you check if the red-silver wire is still properly connected and also they are still inserted in the header? I have seen one or 2 cases where they came out.
I am guessing it is either one of these causes.
And yes.. also do the water test
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You can just binnen lopen for free!
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Coming Monday, 27th of January 2014, is our next Ulti-evening in fablab013, in the centre of Tilburg.
The address is Stadhuisplein 354, Tilburg.
We have a few exciting talks lined up!
- Frank Broos. A dedicated member of Fablab013 and spends a lot of time with 3D scanning.
- Michiel van der Kley; designer and founder of Project Egg.
The schedule on 27th of January at Fablab013:
17.00 - 18.00: Arrival. Find a spot for your Ultimaker if you brought one.
18.00 - 18.30: until 18.30 you have the chance to sign up for dinner. It costs €10 p.p.
19.00 - 19.45: Food!
20.00 - 21.00: Presentations.
21.00 - 22.00: Some time to chat, laugh and inspire. And of course have a drink or 2.
And as always the talks will be filmed!
See you there!
- Ultimaker
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That's somewhat reassuring in the sense that I have no choice but to believe in you, since it was supposdedly already scheduled for last week. I do want to get that update if at all possible. I have a lot riding on this printer because reasons.
I just got a confirmation we are going to ship today, so your Ultimaker 2 will be shipped today!
Great news!
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Hi Sigi,
Thank you and welcome to the community!
The print came out really well. I think the idea is that it shows the image through light.
You could perhaps make the layer thinner so less light is needed to emphasize the image inside.
But it already looks really good
I am curious to see what else you will be making!
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My order was acknowledged on 24 Oct 13, Ref R144630675
Hi Emad, I see your order has not been send out yet because some alternations have been made to your order, and it is yet waiting for a confirmation from our financial department. I will investigate first thing tomorrow and have it shipped to you either Monday or Tuesday if everything turns out to be OK, which I assume it will.
I am sorry for the inconvenience, hopefully the knowledge that it will be shipped next week will make you happy.
Week has come and gone and I don't have my Ultimaker 2 machine nor shipping information NOR any news on when it might arrive...
Next week it will be 10 weeks since I have given Ultimaker my money, yet have nothing to show for it.
Hi Hector, I checked and your order is scheduled for the first batch to leave our HQ next week, which is either Monday or Tuesday. I will know when I am back in the office again Monday. If you want I can send you an update tomorrow.
In regard of not receiving shipping info. I replied to your previous post (Jan 16th) when you asked for an update but I didn't receive your ordernumber. Let me know if you want me to send you an update Monday morning.Edit, yes I did. I am sorry I totally missed your PM. Hopefully the knowledge of your order being shipped in the beginning of next week will be comforting.
Thank you, have a great weekend!
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@arhifane Definitely, we have it in development for a while now and we are planning on releasing it during the 2nd Q of 2014. The results already look very promising
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Enjoy the weekend, and try to get some sleep in between the prints
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I once made a custom printer that was black on the outside, but was ultimaker blue on the inside.
It looked rather bad-ass. Unfortunately, the blue was just 1 grade different from the UltiController screen and another grade away from the blue tape. If you can find a more matching color that would probably look cool
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I also strongly recommend Owen's hot end bowden clamp http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864.You get a positive grip on the tube, but can remove it easily if you have to get to a clog from above, or if you sometimes swap in an oversized ID bowden for oversized PLA of swollen Nylon. I made the slight mod of cutting a short section of bowden that runs the length of the wooden hot end cage. I hold it in place with a M4 washer captured between the top of the wood cage and the bottom of the base-and-riser part.
I actually always advice against this mod.
I understand the idea, but you get the same result with a normal functioning tightner and horse shoe clip.
Besides, the biggest reason for me to advice against this is that there is a rather high chance you are putting too much force on the bowden tube. Onto a level where you will be squeezing it, i.e. changing the inner diameter and create under extrusion.
Only very little friction is required to change the normal flowrate.
1. Colors
I have black and "white" (natural smart ABS by Orbi-Tech) ABS, plus clear BendLay as well as access to red ABS. I'd like to stick to one of these because I don't intend to have a big variety of ABS colors. I don't like ABS and will only use it when necessary, so I don't want to have too much of it laying around.
So, my next approach would be red frame with black printed parts. Is that far enough away from the company-we-don't-mention color scheme?
Lol I was just joking about the colors. Paint it black and red if you want to
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Ok, I have only read this last page so I am coming in rather blind sighted.. but could it be mechanical?
That it retracts (success), and tries to prime the filament but maybe the teethed gear is just a little bit loose.
And you gear like maybe the tiny setscrew or something else skip. And for the prime only the extruder motor rotates, but freely in the teethed gear. Because of the counter-movement and pressure from the filament the teethed gear/shaft stays at its place. Or at least doesn't prime for a full 100%.
Kinda like comparable with a loose pulley on the Ultimaker Original when you had slanted prints.
How about that?
Almost always missing layers / underextruding
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Looks like the one I have at home.